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Does anyone know the proper pressure cap rating for the Bolens/Iseki/Mistsubishi tractor? My old one corroded out and I replaced it with a 7 lb cap because I couldn't read the Japanese writing on the old one. Now it's puking coolant after running about an hour. I may have other issues, but I want to start with the last change first. Thanks and regards...joe

Bolens k1502 mitsubishi K3 overheating
Mitsubishi
Replies 1 Post by yukondiesel

What are you working on?

Hydraulic Drive Motor
Case
Replies 3 Post by agmonkey

I wouldn't mess with the relief valve. Rubman's way is the simpler fix. Several people have done this. My suggestion was a way to eliminate the electric over hydraulic. You would remove the control valve, determine which passage do what, make a cover block to attach hoses to a control valve.

P21f new solenoids or diff valve
Shibaura
Replies 18 Post by lsheaffer

[QUOTE=arcwelder;196733] just guessing here, I think you may have some of the linkage binding up on the draft control.it is on the right side (as you are sitting on the tractor.)I had to take mine apart on my 2510 and break almost all of it free, then put it back together.Take pictures as you takeit apart, so that you can get it back together.Long Service Manual 360-460-510http://tractorpoint.com/pdf/Long Service Manual for 360-460-510 series.pdf [/QUOTE]

Good guess, and thank you for your help. For a while, I rigged up a string to work the lever and it worked really well. Left the linkage off and just raised and lowered it by pulling the string--even put a binder on it so if I pushed the binder lever up, the arms lifted, if I released the binder, the arms lowered. Redneck ingenuity I guess, but that darn linkage still had me baffled. I finally just laid it in front of me and stared at it for a while. I knew something just wasn't right. I noticed a pin connecting the two main arms of the linkage. It wouldn't move, and I had just assumed those pieces were bradded together. I decided to soak that part in Liquid Wrench and see if it would move. At first I was afraid if it wasn't supposed to move, I might break it, but it finally gave just a little. I continued working with it until it was completely free. Now I had a completely different working linkage. Removed my trusty string, put the linkage back together and voila! It works! There's no telling how much time I've put into figuring out that problem and I'm so glad it now works!

Long 460--Which Way is Up
Long
Replies 3 Post by fullcredit

Gear oil is 80-90 fine. When living in the north you might want to consider changing the oil from time to time to deal with the moisture!

Kuhn el 23-150 chain box
Operating and Attachments
Replies 4 Post by Art White

I picked up a 4x2 gator made in 1997. Needless to say it needed some TLC. Through the problem sorting I found at times I have spark, but majority of the time i don't. Reading the forum I've read that spark may be blue or orange. So question is, why two different possible colors and which is the right color to have? Yes I use factory spec spark plug, brand and model. <br>
<br>
Also want to publicly thank Mr Gatoraider for all of his insight. Ordered some rollers for my primary clutch over the weekend from you Sir. You are a wealth of information about the gators. Thank you so much for what you do Sir.

4x2 spark
Utility Vehicles UTV/ATV
Replies 1 Post by Outlawsix

Hey could you do a solid...What pump Number did you use from Northern I have been bitten with the same issues and I am getting the fish hook around to the tune of at a minimum $780 buying a new pump to install would be so much easier thanks for that,,....

Case 446 hydraulic pump
Case
Replies 18 Post by Ray146

It gets tough and frustrating when you have touched so very many things on it!

Grey oil is usually a sign that you may have some coolant seeping from a bad head gasket, crack or other source.

Once the plugs get fouled they can be problematic to get great spark without replacing.

Carburetor may be messed up.

Plugs keep fouling no power at high end MF 2200 Continental
Antique Tractors
Replies 2 Post by minimac

Just bought my new Kubota BX23S. Can't wait to start using it. Bought it in Carson City. Paul was very helpful. I think the Kubota is the best choice with all the safety features. Ka - Tank is his name and he will be doing a lot of work for me.

BX23S
Kubota Tractors
Replies 1 Post by nisseva

Also would like to know, if anyone has figured out what the dials do on control box of the two? Thanks for any and all knowledge.

Diff between SD and SL1603
Shibaura
Replies 1 Post by shovelhead

[QUOTE=greyhorse;196581] Mahindra is an Indian company.They assemble Tractors in the US, and guess since they made it to the worlds highest unit sales volume lately, must be the reason Kubota is comparing to them on the Kubota site.They claim to have won a Deming quality award as well.Time will tell I suppose..... [/QUOTE]

Mahindra buys some tractors whole and often you might be able to buy the same tractor for less going straight to the manufacturer. If price is your thing not build quality might just as well save all you can!

Kubota B2301 vs Deere 2025R vs Mahindra Max24
Kubota Tractors
Replies 5 Post by Art White

Bunker Raker was working good then just stopped moving forward. Cannot get the machine into forward or reverse gear. The shift mechanism (from outside the transmission case) seems to work but does not seem like its catching into a gear. Has plenty oil. No smell of burning gears. Thoughts. Would rather not open up the case. Thanks . . . JIMB

1200A Bunker Rake
John Deere Tractors
Replies 1 Post by j5ball

Hope this helps. I have a cub cadet 7265 with 470 front end loader. In looking for parts it was a struggle until I discovered my 7265 was made by mitsubishi and has been sold under Case, cub cadet as well as mahindra labeling. My front end loader is actually made by Woods and is a 1009 model. So look and see if mahindra carried your exact tractor just with a different labeling. Tractordata.com is a really good resource to match up similarities and find whom else sold your same tractor. Hope this helped sir.

Cub Cadet 7360 Front pinion and Gear issues
Cub Cadet
Replies 5 Post by Outlawsix

Ok, rebuilt all 4 cylinders on the loader, 3 point lift cylinder and replaced steering power steering cylinder, replaced the screen on pick up tube flushed and refilled system every thing worked fine moved some dirt around one day then mowed for around 4 hours another day left it set for a few days started it up noticed I had a little oil drip at the pump mount so I tightened it up and now the stupid thing burps fluid out the overflow till its dumped around a couple quarts then quits but its low enough by then nothing wants to work with out reving up the engine if you top it off it just burps it back out. Help!

jinma 254 hydraulics belching out the ovreflow
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 1 Post by freetrapper

Hi all I am having a problem with a 200hp gendore 4wd tractor. The soft start on the pto works when it wants to. It's driving me nuts just put a new pto shaft on a rhino 6mtr slasher and it's now twisted like a drill bit. Less than 16hrs work. Consulted the manual and the revs are spot-on to start the pto but today it stalled the tractor twice. I'm just about over it as that's the 2nd shaft put in it. not to mention the output shaft as well. Any ideas would be appreciated. Cheers Dazza. :-(<br>
<br>

Soft Start Problems
New Holland Tractors
Replies 1 Post by dazza423

Hi All,

Just found this thread and was having a similar problem with my JD 4100. From the list previously posted, I'm at this stage (this is exactly what is happening):

"3) Spinning electric motor sound but no cranking -- Stuck pull in solenoid"

How do I check the solenoid for this issue? Or do I just replace it?

I already checked the battery and it gives a solid 12V (plus I have a starter that I can hook up directly and it can't start the 4100 either, so not the battery.) The engine just seems to turn over and over, I can see the fan blade spinning but it never catches.

My 4100 won t turn over
John Deere Tractors
Replies 17 Post by zotter

Hello all.<br>
<br>
I inherited a Belarus 8345. I am not sure how to raise the 3-point lift. I has a front end loader on it and it works great. I am pulling a 12' brush hog right now and it raises it fine. What lever raises and lowers the 3-point. Is it the lever to the right of the seat or is it one of the 3 to the right of the console. The console levers seem to work the left one operates the bucket and the right one the front end loader lift and the center one operates the hose quick connects on the right rear of the tractor for the brush hog and such. There is also a set of quick connects on the left rear that I do not know what operates them either. the draft lever to the right of the seat does nothing. Cannot get 3-point to move at all.<br>
Need Help!!!<br>
What am I missing.<br>
<br>
Thanks Jimmy

Belarus 8345 3-point won t llift
Belarus
Replies 1 Post by jdonham

Thanks for your answer and I knew the function of the throw out, its more the small bolt that keeps the shaft from turning its a 1/4 in. slot, much like a key way is what I wondered about, I am thinking it needs to be in the slot good but not tight as it has to slide and how to lock it.
.

I changed the clutch in my MT372 tractor and I need help
Mitsubishi
Replies 4 Post by candosmith

There is a small "weep" hole on my model 445 beneath the brake band that should allow a small leak from the axle seal to be handled without wetting your brake band. My weep hole was partially clogged. I replaced the brake bsnd anyway and it didn't help my brake. Yes, you need to remove the wheel and axle. It is heavy and I used an engine hoist to remove and suspend the axle while I worked on the brake. My understanding from reading about that axle seal is that there are some spacers that hold the axle seal in place and these spacers also control the mesh of the "differential" gears. I decided not to remove the axle seal for fear of never getting the mesh of gears correct. zThe seal was only leaking a tiny bit over the years and I just left the seal as is. Best of luck! Paul

460 Long hyd leak
Long
Replies 5 Post by aerotox

Not only suitable, but necessary. Too heavy to lift without one. Makes it easy to put it back together also. If it doesn't want to slide back in, it's easy to raise, lower, or move side to side. Do not separate the final drive housing--not necessary. Remove fender and the 8-9 bolts that hold the axle housing to the main frame. Drain some of your oil before you pull the axle.

460 axle
Long
Replies 2 Post by fullcredit