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I always enter by way of the "today" forum. If I want to do some specific research, then I wander. I fully agree with Roger, focus is usually on the front page and it is easy to engage everyone on the site in that fashion. As long as a topic field is included in the initial posting, they can be archived in the appropriate topic databases later.

New CTB Version Needs Volunteers for Testing
Website Operations Howto
Replies 20 Post by cutter

I would like to post a picture of my new barn as it was being built by the mennonite. Is that possible to do here? I have some on floppy.

Cutter

Barn pictures
Just For Fun Off Topic
Replies 18 Post by cutter

Never mind Dennis, works fine now. My mistake, sorry.

New barn
Barns Pole Barns
Replies 57 Post by cutter

Jeff,

I bought it new last winter and had it mounted to the N/H tc29. When I traded for a 2910 late this summer, it was a simple matter to reposition the loader mounts to fit the Kubota. You have to understand, I learned to drive on a 49 Willie pushing snow at 13 years old and running a blade is something I have done all my life, need it or not. These loader blades are very different in operation, they are great for piling snow as you still have some loader function available to you. The down side is that in order to get it to operate without tearing up the driveway, it has to be in the float position. You lose steering and front end traction, and if your brakes are on the same side as the hydro, you can't use them to steer. I had already made the blade purchase, so I made the mount switch when I traded machines. My plow is new, the paint isn't even scratched on the scraper blade but the dealer wouldn't allow me anything for it on a trade for a rear blower when I swapped machines. This year we haven't had any snow to plow, so I don't know how it will work on the 2910. I may be able to steer it due to the hand lever cruise control on this machine, but now with another 300' of driveway to plow back to my barn, a rear blower and front bucket would be much more effective.

New Holland front mounted snowblower
Operating and Attachments
Replies 8 Post by cutter

MrWurm,
That sounds like a few hundred dollars better than I was able to get on a 2000 model early in 2000. I purchased a TC29d and the SS on mine was about the same price as the 4hp extra the 33 has. At the time, there was a $400 rebate on the tc29. Hope that helps.

December or January
New Holland Tractors
Replies 5 Post by cutter

Austin healey 3000 for me. Wish I could afford to own one now, last one I passed up was in an inside junk yard for imports. $600 and it ran, but with a young family in 1978, too much money. Now they are more like 30k. The Brit part was definately the wiring, and probably the specially hidden fluid check points that only a midget could access. The fold down tops were like crossword puzzles to work with. Compared to these new tractors of today, they were like third world technology.

jd 650 loader
John Deere Tractors
Replies 11 Post by cutter

That is interesting. I thought the JD's were built to accept the tires wide or narrow. My 4100 was switched by the dealer before delivery....odd he would do it if the strain would be too great. I am quite sure the N/H and Kubota are not reversable, and I have read that Kubota makes a spacer to move the tires out a bit for chain clearance. Seems to me they would not do that if stress were an issue. Certainly added length to the axle would add stress, but I would hope these machines could deal with it.

3 pt hitch design on 4100
John Deere Tractors
Replies 22 Post by cutter

I have looked, I have owned all three.

Tractor Weight
Kubota Tractors
Replies 16 Post by cutter

It's been a great year chatting with everyone here on this board. I have learned a great deal and hope that sometimes I was able to help others. I would like to sign off the year by saying that this is the greatest, most generous as well as the most forgiving nation in the world. It is a pleasure to share America with all of you. God Bless America!

Happy New Year and God Bless America
Website Operations Howto
Replies 3 Post by cutter

Yes Art, I did purchase the hydro-turn model. Generally when I get nose down I have to lift and push with the implement while backing and holding the traction lock. That is the ONE reason that I have not modified the Curtis to operate with the chain stop and unhooked the curl cylinders. I am thinking about a way to use a secondary mounting plate to allow some free movement of the blade and still give me the ablility to curl the plow in times of need. Haven't come up with a good design yet.

chains
Tractor Projects
Replies 19 Post by cutter

Thank You Dennis! I too would like to wish all the members of this forum a Merry Christmas and safe New Year. It has been fun as well as educational participating and interacting with the folks here. A special thanks to Art for his advise concerning Kubota issues. Cutter

Happy Holidays
Website Operations Howto
Replies 9 Post by cutter

I recall some kind of a bypass valve on the frame on the right side towards the front of the tractor. I believe there was a discharge port on it as well (don't have the tc here to check for you). May want to look at that, I recall N/H having problems with some of those but it I don't recall exactly what it was. Take a look at the database on this site and you can problably find it. Then again, it may just be a loose clamp as mentioned.

Radiator Fluid Under Tractor
New Holland Tractors
Replies 25 Post by cutter

I just completed a barn as well. I opted for the laminated poles that are showing up around this area similar to what Morton uses. We augered the holes and dumped an 80# bag of cement around the bases and filled to the top with gravel. I have had the same experience with the cement popping up and heaving when it is encasing a post from top to bottom. Hopefully this method will work better. My pad is well drained, although one end is perhaps only a foot of gravel on a hardpan base. It increases rapidly to a point at the downhill side I am 5 to 6 foot of gravel fill. A natural drain, so to speak. I am not sure how these new style poles will work, but the treatment is all the way through the boards. I have had a grade level rotting problem with the other style treated posts in other areas on my property due to clay soil and wet conditions. Hopefully these poles will deter that from happening to the barn.

Pole Barns and Post Holes
Barns Pole Barns
Replies 21 Post by cutter

I am in NY. The type of insulation eludes me at the moment, I have the spec sheet at the office. There is a disclaimer form with it that states it must have a mimimum of .5" drywall over it due to it's propensity to burn. My shop area is 20x40 with 14' ceilings. The ceiling is insulated with fiberglass. There are two 3x5 windows, a 9x9 door and one entrance door in the room. One 40' length of wall is an interrior studded type and will be covered with fiberglass. So I calculate the area to be just over 1000 sq. ft...Something is awry with the estimates. The 1.5" should have cost around 800 dollars for the shop area. The place is a bit too high pressure and anxious, not to mention way off in thier quote.

Blown on insulation costs about blew my mind
Home Improvement
Replies 9 Post by cutter

I do not mean to imply that a particular product is good just because it is identified as being made by a recognized high end manufacturer, I was being a bit metaphoric. Take the new Jaguar based on a Lincoln chasis for instance, just isn't cutting it when compared to the competetion. What I am getting at is if you paid $2500.00 for that new Pinto, you would not expect it to be the vehicle a $10,000.00 Cadillac was at the time. The fact that it rotted away in a couple years and the mouldings fell off was part of what gave the Japanese such a boost. That and the all around poor quality of American cars. I would not have expected the free loaner when the Pinto overheated, but I sure would have had the Caddy done the same thing. What do I mean here? The consumer should get what he/she pays for. The circles on the hood give me a good starting point if that is the level of quality and engineering I am looking for, and I can afford it. Otherwise, sell me the Pinto and I'll understand when the speakers rattle and the vinyl seats split, or at least I should.

Now That is Customer Service
Kubota Tractors
Replies 11 Post by cutter

My TC29D had the fogging problem, the dealer had no solution for it. More or less blew me off.

Dealer help for TC40D
New Holland Tractors
Replies 12 Post by cutter

I almost forgot to mention, my newest project is a 30' Silverton. It was the mechanic's special at the local marina. Like your tractor project, it has low hours and the damage is totally cosmetic, mostly from sitting unused. The advantage I had is that I knew the engines and transmissions were good when it was stored away six years ago. That tractor could be fun to restore, a friend of mine down the street bought an 855 that was in a fire and fortunately the mechanics were all good on it. He uses it weekly. He also happens to be a J/D mechanic at a large dealership in Macedon. Makes a big difference in parts cost and speed when you are connected like that. Good luck.

Risky Bargain Hunting
John Deere Tractors
Replies 13 Post by cutter

Everything on my machine is Kubota, front back and belly. The Curtis plow was new last year and I had it re-welded to fit the Kubota when I traded. The blade has not been mounted on the tractor's loader frame except when it was being welded up. The bucket is still in place and I was curious as to the effect of removing the loader arms with the Curtis Blade in place as opposed to the Kubota bucket. I really don't think it will matter. I know where the problem lies, it is plainly visible and easily fixed. The loader mounting upright has an improperly positioned stop welded behind the left side upper pin holes. It is the one where the dogs or "busses" rest during installation or removal of the loader. The pins slide through the uprights, into the loader mounts and secure the loader to the tractor. In this case, the left side is welded too far to the rear by .050, allowing the loader to travel to the rear of the support beyond the mating holes for the pin. Hence, the pin will not pass through the holes without first securing the right side with the loader seated per owners manual, then reaching across from the left side, you must manipulate the loader control while trying to line up the holes for insertion or removal. A very cumbersome and potententially dangerous operation.

Kubota loader installation
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 26 Post by cutter

Just arrived home from Las Vegas at midnight and started the computer, one of it's fans was squeeling like a stuffed pig for a few moments until it warmed, I usually don't shut it down. Other than being hit by a pick pocket, the trip was very pleasant. I see you guys have been burning up the canvas since I have been away. I didn't thoroughly read through all the posts, but see some real good thoughts on trailer size. After a good nights rest, I'll give everything a good going over. Anxious to see if my loader problem is fixed as well. I told the dealer the barn would be open and he said he would try and get to it while I was away. Haven't gone back there yet, no lights.

trailer
Website Operations Howto
Replies 14 Post by cutter

Gator,

As always, these guys really cover the bases. Tom covered most of what I believe is a good argument for the larger machine, take it from one that started life with a walk behind and progressed through Ariens, Cub Lo Boy, Cub Cadet Super Tractor, Zero turn mowing machine, B7100, 4100, TC29 and currently a 2910, which I hope to be burried with (not alive, this would happen only if I asked the wife to trade again!). The best two cuts I have experienced have been with the TC and the 2910, and that takes everything into consideration. The smaller machines leave less footprint, but can't muster the HP with a 5' or 6' deck to blast through tall grass that has gotten out of hand and spread it nicely. I don't rake leaves and I have acres full of trees. I blow them with the mower deck into the woods my last couple of mowings. Those dry leaves clean the underside of the deck nicely too, makes it easier to clean before storage. I can't believe the work I have been able to do with these compact/loader combo's. You can dig, pull, lift, carry, pile, move, spread and on and on. I can use my machine for light loader work (meaning a safe load, not lifted above the center of gravity) without rear ballast, having only the heavy belly deck locked up in place. Something that was not safe due to the short wheelbase and lighter weight of my 4100 (which by the way, may be a nice sized machine for the uses you describe, just throw some ballast on the rear for loader use). As Tom stated, the more you look around the more you find you can do. I dug the underdrains for my barn with the TC's front loader, working in between the 2x4 pole supports inside the building and moved only two braces to do it, try that with any other type of tractor. The Kubota has great ground clearance for a machine of it's size, the belly deck locks up and out of the way. I don't know about you Gator, but the lawn tractor type machines I priced when I made the move to a large compact were close, especially once you threw a diesel into the mix. Seems to me a Cub Super Tractor with a diesel and 5' deck was running over 10k. With that you could mow and do minor choirs. For the same price, I bought a B7100 with FWD and a cat 1 three point hitch. Although I haven't looked at the smaller BX series or the NH offerings of that size, if they are comparable to a 4100, that may be where you should start looking. One Thing I have noticed is that you don't want to be fooled by dealers selling you a machine base upon it's weight as it pertains to footprint when mowing. I did some figuring on my own during my buying sprees and found that if you measure the width of the tires as it compares to the weight of the machine, you can come up with a pretty accurate measure of that. It is suprising how many of them are almost the same when this is taken into consideration. The bigger difference is the type of tire, the turf being the lighest footprint and the ag being the heaviest, with r4 being a good compromise. I have a blade for my machine and if I had it to do over, I would have purchased the front mount blower with a cab. The blade can be retro-fit to another machine if you trade however. If you have no trees I would suggest a quality three point mower and a loader along with front or rear blower for that "one pass" effect. Something I can pass along that may save time and money in the end is that these other brands that are showing up (Korean I think, some orange, yellow, purple, forgot the names) were not priced that much less than the current Japanese/American brands we all know and love. Seems to me trade in time would benefit from a well established brand name and you would end up losing any savings you gained at purchase time (unless you plan on keeping it). Hope something here helps, lord knows the posters here have helped me plenty!

Stepping Up From Garden Tractor
Operating and Attachments
Replies 23 Post by cutter