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Thanks Guy, I'll give them a try.

Fuse for 825
Belarus
Replies 3 Post by sammied

Peter,

I graduated from a mule to a Ford 8N in about 1952. An 8N has about 25HP and it pulled a 2-14 bottom plow.There are a lot of different ways to go about plowing and most of the differences are because of the land being plowed.In my case the land was usually sandy clay with some really sandy spots and some spots with really hard clay. Some of the fields were fairly square, most weren't, and almost all had terraces. Anyway, here's how I plowed.
Assuming your plow throws right:
1.Use the tunbuckles on the lifting arms to center the plow and make sure it is pointing directly to the front and has no play from left to right.

2 Make sure that the inside of your right tire is inline with the outside end of the slide(the part of the plow that sits on the ground when the plow is level) on the right plow. Adjust the tire if necessary. If the plow is too far to the right you "plow the same ground twice". If the plow is too far to the left you will leave unplowed ridges between passes.

3. For a 14" plow and 40HP about all you can expect is about 10"- 12" depth. On a flat surface I would run the left rear wheel of the tractor up on about 6 or 7 layers of 2"X 8". Then use the adjustments on you lifting arm and top link so that both plows sit flat on the ground. According to the type plows and the hardness of the ground you may have to take up a turn or two up on your top link to raise the rear of the plow slightly.

4. I don't know exactly how the lift on a JD 1070 works but if you have a choice use draft.Take the tractor into the field and move forward at a slow speed while lowering your your lift until the plow is cutting about 10"deep. Stop the tractor. Your lift control should have an adjustable stop on it(usually located in the slot of the lift control). if so loosen the stop and move it up so that it rests against the control lever. If you don't have a stop I have used a bolt, washers and a nut run thru the slot. If all else fails just mark it with a pencil or scratch.

5.Run a test row to check the depth and gear you need to run in. Run as fast as you feel comfortable but don't lug the tractor.Adjust as necessary.

6.I have used my wife's fingernail polish to mark the exact location of the control so I know next time where to set the stop.

On actually plowing the field:
I always started by going around the edges of the field or in most cases along side the terraces going clockwise throwing toward the middle of the field. After one round I turned around and put my right wheel in the slot I had just left and threw toward the outside of the field. This covered up the first slot and made a new slot. I kept this rotation the rest of the way.
When you get to the end of a row you raise the plow, throw in the clutch and apply the brake just as the plow reaches the end. Shift to reverse, hold your right brake, turn your steering wheel as sharp as possible clockwise and back up until
the plows are past the last slot you left. Shift into the running gear,release the brake, straighten the wheels, drop the plows just as you pass the last slot.Go for it. As you get to the middle you get to the "short rows"- keep on trucking.

It's easer than it seems. After a few hours you do it without even thinking.

Sammie

Right Size Tractor to plow 10 year fallow field
Operating and Attachments
Replies 9 Post by sammied

Murf
I did more research and it looks like you are correct.
I went on the Kawasaki website and looked at their parts. It shows a coil,charging located inside the flywheel. I went back to the same JD parts catalog and looked up coil and guess what-it shows the same picture as the Kawaski website. No wonder I couldn't find an alternator. Evidently the model Gator I have doesn't have one.

Thanks for the help!

John Deere Gator HPX Alternator Repair
Utility Vehicles UTV/ATV
Replies 5 Post by sammied