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They come with a "self sealing compound" which may be what you have lining your good tires. I assumed it was something like Slime and since many know that product, that's what I called it.

Slime has worked great for me on off road and small equipment like a small yard trailer, power washer, hand truck, wheelbarrow, generator tires, friends ATVs, etc. I've only had small leaks that have sealed after I put the slime in.

Judging by it's viscosity and the directions on the bottle that say not to use it on road tires (except trailers), I don't think it will work well on larger tires or bigger holes like nail holes. It's probably only good for those tires that have pin hols or deflate slowly over time.

I put tubes in all my boat and utility trailer tires just to be sure.

The tires on the mower are small (about wheel barrow sized) and I already have a supply of several small tubes that I bought before I used the slime to seal the small leaks in the small equipment tires.

I was thinking of putting it in the JD4200 tires but now I won't bother using it on the tractor tires.

Thanks.

What to look for in a rear mount 3ph finish mower
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 13 Post by drconsult

FINAL SOLUION - part 2

[u] One more thing I tried:[/u]

- After removing the cylinder from the tractor, I used a 20 ton press to try and push the remainder of the pin from the bushing. Maybe a bigger press would have produced a different result??

[u] What finished the job:[/u]

- Cutting the pivot pin using a reciprocating saw allowed me to remove the entire hydraulic cylinder from the tractor. Good quality thin blades are required. Mine was not but if the pivot pin is also stuck in the frame, this will reduce the amount of force needed to get the two remaining pieces out after cutting the pivot pin.

- Soaking the ends with penetrating oil. While installed on the loader, there was no way to have penetrating oil sit on the sides. I'm sure that this made my hammer and chisel work a bit easier to start but the oil certainly didn't penetrate all the way through.

- Drilling with a drill press (A mill would work better). You will need a good set of large diameter bits (beyond 1/2" I used progressively larger silver and demming bits). Don't forget the Kutwell or similar lubrication / coolant when drilling though metal. With the entire cylinder well clamped and accruately centered on a good powerfull low speed drill press, I was able to drill almost all the pin out until a small bushing like part remained. Other than the pilot hole, I did not drill it all the way out. That gave me a "ledge" to hit with a blunt chisel or piece of round stock.

- Hammer and punch to knock it out. A small chisel an pin punch was used to collapse some of the walls of the pin from either end of the bushing. Finally I could knock it out with a piece of 3/4" round stock.

- Curved file and 1" round wire brush to clean it up. The curved file let me remove the remaining rust / debris and helped smooth out the pitting that was present in the bushing. Using a hand file will ensure that you don't oversize the bushing and end up with a sloppy pivot pin. The 1" diamter stainless wire brush cleaned the bushing and finished off the inner ID nice and smooth.

A HUGE THANKS go out to everyone who posted ideas. Should our paths ever cross in person, I'll buy you a beer!

Best way to free a seized pivot bolt joint
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 40 Post by drconsult