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No problem with the HST. I pull it in low range, WOT.

The 14" plow is really too big for the width of the rear wheels. By that I mean that the plow cuts 28" and the distance between the rear tires is only 26". I have turf tires. To set the tractor up correctly it should have wheel spacers that set the inside track of the rear wheels so they are the same as the inside track of the fronts. That way when the tractor is in the furrow the front tire can run up against the furrow wall and the rear tire will also run there. As it is, the front tire should be held away from the furrow wall an inch or two so the rear tire does not crowd the furrow wall. I don't plow much, just my garden and and a couple of small areas that I planted to grass that were weeds before. I have the crossbar of the plow adjusted so that it tracks correctly and cuts 14" on the first furrow. It takes some adjustment time to get the top link length correct, but not too bad. I grew up with Ford tractors and 3PTH plows so that helps. I keep notes on the length of the top link so I can set it where it needs to be when I want to use it. My top link gets used for other implements, too. I keep notes on all the settings so I can readjust it when I change implements. Save a lot of time.

Plowing with a B7800
Kubota Tractors
Replies 6 Post by Toolin

I have a B3030 and when I bought it I also got a Landpride 60" rear blade. It worked fine until the first snowfall. I found out then that it would not push the snow far enough outside of the rear wheels when angled. I traded it back in on a 72" and it works great. Your B7800 will have no problem with a 72" RB. Good luck.

Size of Rear Blade for B7800
Kubota Tractors
Replies 5 Post by Toolin

I have a B3030 with FEL and 60" MMM. I think it is a great machine and would be a nice step up from your BX2230. However, I agree with Murf in that you might be happier in the long run by keeping your fine machine and looking for a used larger tractor for the bigger jobs that you will do occasionally. I also agree that for occasional BH work you are better off to rent a rubber track mini-excavator. I have done that a few times myself and have been very pleased with the capabilities of those machines. I would look for a '50s or '60s Ford 800 series or a MF 35 or 135 with a FEL. These are very nimble and solid tractors and will have the weight and power to run 5' to 6' brush hogs, 2 or 3 bottom plows, discs, etc. that you might want to use. Another good tractor from that era is an Oliver 550. I see these models listed for sale in the $4000 to $6000 range quite frequently. Just my .02 but I think you have a great machine right now for mowing and yard work. I would keep it and get another tractor for the bigger stuff. Good luck.

BX for a B or maybe L
Kubota Tractors
Replies 14 Post by Toolin

Beagle, Nice cab! I also like the plow you have mounted on the front. Is the lift cylinder underneath the tractor? It looks that way in the pictures. Very interesting design. How does it work and why did you do it that way instead of putting the lift cylinder on the front? Thanks

Cab on the 7810
Kubota Tractors
Replies 10 Post by Toolin

The JD3120 is a larger tractor than the B3030. I think it is more comparable in size and weight to a L3130.

upgrade 7800 vs 2630 or 3030
Kubota Tractors
Replies 10 Post by Toolin

I have been following this post for a while and tend to agree with just about everything that Art has said. The way I see it, PTO horsepower is a measure of the usable horsepower available to do work with the tractor. It doesn't matter if it is gear drive or HST. The number of gears and or ranges in the transmision does not add or take away horspower, rather it gives the operator more options when choosing the most efficient ground speed for the job at hand. If you can keep a full load on the engine at all times when doing any kind of work, be it PTO or ground engaging, you will get more work done in a given amount of time. Given that a HST draws a little more power from the engine than a gear drive due to the extra oil pumps I believe that that power loss is offset by the HSTs abilty to easily adjust the ground speed on the fly to keep the engine fully loaded as conditions change. Now as to why there is a difference at all in the HP figures from advertised engine HP to PTO HP, in my opinion, that is just marketing and should never be considered when comparing one tractor to another. The only HP that matters is PTO HP as that is what you can use. Say you are looking at a tractor that is rated at 30 HP, yet it's PTO HP is 23. Since you can't really use the lost 7 HP then in reality you are looking at a 23 HP tractor. 30 HP sure sounds better though, doesn't it. As to why there is such a wide variance between these numbers when comparing similiar tractors, it could be that different engineers use different methods to arrive at those numbers. More likely it is because some systems are more eficient than others. Anyway, this is just my .02 to add to this interesting discussion.

HST and PTO HP
Tractor Projects
Replies 22 Post by Toolin

I can believe it. The new computer controlled automatics work extremely well. While it may be possible to "outshift" the auto with a stick, you would have to be paying close attention at all times to differing driving conditions to do that. The automatic will do it "automatically" without the driver even having to think about it. The slip in an auto trans is factored in to when the computer decides to shift and with "lockup" torque converters there is no slip under light load. Manual shifting can be fun and if you like to do that then go for it. It is just that the auto trans of the last 10 years are nothing like the older ones. I don't know if a vehicle with a factory tow package is even available with a stick shift. The autos really are that good for all around use.

Automatic Better Economy Than Manual
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 52 Post by Toolin

Chains on just the rear will make a huge difference. Unless your drive is very, very steep I doubt if you would ever need them on the front as well. Good luck.

To chain or to not chain that is the question
Kubota Tractors
Replies 11 Post by Toolin

When I ordered my new B3030 I specifically wanted the short non-foldable ROPS. I did not want the tall foldable ROPS because of the extra clearance needed to get under trees and also I just did not like the looks of it. Just my personal opinion. When it was delivered they had forgotten to change the ROPS to the short one so I had it on for a few days until they brought the short one to me which I changed myself. While the tall foldable ROPS was on I had to prop open the 8' rollup door on my barn with a 2x4 just so I could get in and out with hitting it. It would be a PIA to have to do that every time I went in and out or even worsewould be to have to fold the darn thing every time. Now I can go under the trees better and get in and out of the barn without having to stop and adjust something. I think it would be a lot easier to shorten your ROPS than raise your barn.

make your own folding rops
Kubota Tractors
Replies 13 Post by Toolin