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Hello, Frank:

I own a B2910 with the 72" mid mount mower.

It doesn't take me much longer to attach/detach the mid-mount deck than it does to install most 3 point attachments, although there is crawling around involved in attaching the mid mount mower. I mount/dismount my mid-mount mower on gravel driveways or grass (unimproved and not level) and have minimal difficulty, although certainly a flat concrete floor is ideal. I think once you figure out the tricks for taking off and putting on most implements none of them are that difficult.

If you're mowing close under and around a lot of evergreens and/or mid-sized trees, the rear 3 point mower might be easier to employ, as the tractor doesn't need to drive through and under the branches, as with the mid-mount. The RPS is pretty tall on these compacts and will hit the lower branches on mid-sized trees.

But the mid-mount makes for a more compact unit overall and will give you better manuverability, as well as (debatably of course) a better finish cut. The 3 point finish mowers are also cheaper, as you don't have to get one designed specifically for your model of tractor.

When I bought I looked at both the Boomers and the B2910. One of the reasons I selected Kubota was because of their reputation for reliability and customer service. Both have been borne out so far to my great satisfaction. I could easily recommend a Kubota alone based on those two factors.

However if you read this board (a great help that I used when I researched MY purchase) you will see that each tractor might have some strengths and weaknesses (as well as ardent fans). The only repeated glaring engineering/design problem I've read of doesn't concern any of the models you're looking at. The compacts are all designed for the same tasks, so they're not much that different overall.

Test drive the models you're interested in, find a good dealer (key to your tractor happiness IMO) close to where you live, negotiate your price, and take the plunge. I don't think you can go wrong with any of those models, especially if you get a good dealer who will support his product.

Good luck!

B2910 L3010 or NH TC29D
Kubota Tractors
Replies 8 Post by Elkoboy

Funny that you mention that, Cutter...

I have a B2910 on which I broke the 3 point lift housing casting last fall while using a post hole auger. One bolt that holds the top link brackets broke off the casting where the hole is tapped, apparently under twisting stress from the auger.

I didn't even realize I had broken the machine until days later when I tried to change 3 point implements.

Fortunately it was repaired under warranty, and on my request for a preventative measure the dealer welded both top link brackets to a 1/4" backplate (in lieu of replacing the top link with Kubota's heavy duty toplink). Hopefully now the twisting stresses on the top link brackets that contributed to the breakage are distributed between the 4 bolts.

I just assumed this was a freak accident, possibly caused in part by over-torquing of one of the top link bracket bolts.

Where have you read about these sorts of incidents? I'm nervous that this might happen again and want to explore anything that might further prevent a repeat occurrence.

Top link breakage
Kubota Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Elkoboy

I believe this is a picture of the top link he is talking about. I tried to buy one of these myself for my 2910 and was told there was no such part...

L3010 Backhoe Bracket Mount Question
Kubota Tractors
Replies 10 Post by Elkoboy

Well, I'll interject my opinions on your last question, Cutter.

The reason I bought chains this year for my B2910 is because last year I discovered that my R4s slipped too often on the unimproved surfaces and sometimes on the gravel (but rarely) that I was running on. The most disconcerting slippage for me was sideways on slight inclines off my gravel driveways.

I use my tractor in winter to both clear snow, and do light farm routines, such as loader work (mostly manure loads) and moving round bales with a 3 point spear. Some of those duties require that I be off improved surfaces.

Otherwise, generally the 4 wheel drive did fine, as long as I wasn't on a steep hill. But when I got off the driveways I wasn't comfortable with the traction I was getting. If there is much ice under the snow I've also had some slippage problems even on relatively flat improved surfaces.

I would say that on driveways only with little to no incline you might not need chains at all. Last year I only got stuck once when I dropped my front wheels off the driveway into a slight dip and there was enough ice that I couldn't get good traction with the rear wheels and back out of it (even trying to lift the front end with the bucket).

The chains I got from tirechains.com were regular ladder style two link spacing types (the only other type they sold for that size R4 was regular 4 link chains).

chains
Tractor Projects
Replies 19 Post by Elkoboy

Thanks for the update and taking the time to show us your project, Bill! I'm enjoying watching your progress.

And all I can say is that I wish MY welding looked as nice as yours! :-)

Caddigger Page Updated
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 5 Post by Elkoboy

The output of the generator is 9500 watts. Another option is a homemade chain drive reduction system I guess. Dual/triple pulleys would probably be needed for belt drive setup. I'd be inclined to think that the chain drive would be able to handle more HP: is that a fair assumption?

Building a PTO Generator - Questions
Shop Tools
Replies 13 Post by Elkoboy

I emailed Carver Equipment regarding tire chains for a B2910 as well, and they told me that front tire chains were not available and/or advisable for clearance reasons on that model. Take a look at how close that steering linkage is to the inside of the front wheels and I think you'll realize they're probably right about that.

I plan on buying chains as well for my B2910 for the rears only though, as my R4's slip sideways on uneven ground more than I like; otherwise the 4WD alone is fine for traction on driveways.

2 or 4 chains
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 13 Post by Elkoboy

Hello, Mike:

I bought a B2910 with the HST partly because I knew my wife would be operating it at times and it would be easier for her to use. Now I can't imagine having any other type of transmission. It's great for mowing, loader work and landscaping.

Good luck on your shopping!

Need help comparing new Compacts to 8n Ford
Operating and Attachments
Replies 27 Post by Elkoboy

As others have said the little neon bulb electric fence tester only tells you if the fence is working, but not how well. To save the money or as an impromptu tester you can also just pick a blade of grass and touch it to the fence wire about an inch or two from where you're holding it. You'll receive a mild shock but not nearly as severe as if you'd touch the fence wire.

The secret to the fence working well is having a good ground. Many manufacturers suggest 3 ground rods spaced 10 feet apart buried 6-8 feet into the ground connected together. Depending on your soil conditions you may need more rods (if it is dry or sandy). Also make sure your ground rods are at least 50 feet away from any utility grounding system to prevent stray voltage that will disturb the livestock.

Then it's just a question of hooking the ground terminal on the fencer to the ground rods, and the fence wire(s) to the hot terminal. And make sure your fence wires are not touching ground in any way.

Hooking up an electric fence
Parts and Repair
Replies 12 Post by Elkoboy

I have had my chicken coops with electric fence wire around them as predator control for several years and never lost a bird.

I have two strands around the chicken coop (bird) fence, one about 6" off the ground and another about 18" off the ground. My logic is that the lower strand will keep both climbing and digging predators away from the fence, and one that might jump the bottom wire (or larger critter stepping over it) is going to hit the upper wire.

My only recommendation is to avoid the solar electric fence controllers (battery powered charged by solar cells) if you live in northern climates. Mine worked well for about 2 years but weakened substantially in the winter (due to less sunlight and cold batteries) to the point that it didn't do its job. I changed over to a 110VAC controller which has quite a bit more of a jolt and that won't weaken.

As a disclaimer I also own several dogs and cats, and the coop is near yard lights and other activity, all of which I'm sure contribute to reducing predation.

Electric Livestock Fences
Parts and Repair
Replies 5 Post by Elkoboy

Northern also sells PTO pumps; you can price one out on their website.

Backhoe PTO Pump Pricing
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 11 Post by Elkoboy

The ROPS (roll over protection SYSTEM) includes both the rollbar AND the seatbelt. Using one without the other negates the safety of the system. And if you think you can jump clear of a tractor as it rolls while not wearing your seatbelt, you're playing Russian roulette. You MIGHT be able to jump clear, but then again, you might not. Rolling a tractor with a rollbar and not wearing a seatbelt is just asking for the rollbar to crunch you too. Wear your seatbelt!

Anyone ever use a ROPS
Tractor Projects
Replies 33 Post by Elkoboy

Well, I was wrong - my manual confirmed that the folding ROPS is indeed an OPTION on the B2910.

Mr. Carver at Carver Equipment sent me the following information:

"On the B2710 and B2910... the two post, NON FOLDING, rigid and low height
ROPS is standard equip. and should be provided with the tractor being sold,
rented or leased.

A Folding ROPS is sometimes ordered by customers so they can safely operate a
BH and have ample additional head room when sitting in the BH seat, storage
in places, passage through low doors.

When a Folding ROPS is ordered as an individual item (and switched out for a
brand new ROPS at time of new sale) the MSLP is $580.00
In addition to this price, in coming freight and service to R/R the ROPS, tax
are all additional costs factors.

For dealers that keep both in stock (as we do) our cost PRICE difference in
the two type is $150.

So a customer should expect to pay from $150. To approx. $600. to get a
FOLDING ROPS depending on their particular circumstances.

We discourage the purchases of the FOLDING ROPS and really ask each customer
that indicates they want one to understand how serious a mistake it will be
NOT to keep the UNIT in the UP position when operating the tractor.
I feel they are "just an accident waiting to happen" when an operator gets in
a big hurry or is lackadaisical about the importance of the ROPS and seat
belt."

ROPS height on B2710
Kubota Tractors
Replies 7 Post by Elkoboy

Obviously my guess on what I paid was a fantasy of what I would have LIKED to have paid and not what I actually did... ;-) I pulled out my receipt and found that I paid $14,400 for my 2000 B2910 with R4s and block heater, and $3250 for the LA402 loader. I think I could have knocked about $1000 off the total had I shopped around more/looked at dealers further from home, but this was the only dealer with 2910s in stock in my area when I was buying... Good luck in your purchase, John!

New Kubota B2910 w front end loader
Kubota Tractors
Replies 5 Post by Elkoboy

The B2910 comes with a rear PTO shaft COVER, and a rear PTO shaft CAP. The shaft cover is the u-shaped metal flange that wraps around the top and sides of the PTO and is intended as a safety shield. The cap is a black plastic cap that covers the PTO shaft itself and is supposed to keep gunk off the shaft. The manual says keep the COVER on at all times, and replace the CAP when the shaft is not in use. The ROPS has nothing whatsoever to do with the cover, and you should have a cover installed; my B2910 came with both btw.

My first real tractor
Kubota Tractors
Replies 6 Post by Elkoboy

I don't notice any noise from the side panels on my 2910 at all. Make sure the panel lower corner tabs are set properly into the bottom channels and firmly locked into the tab locks at the top corners. It isn't that hard to slightly misalign the panels which could lend to metal vibrating against metal. Those top spring locks are pretty stiff too.

test drive
Website Operations Howto
Replies 15 Post by Elkoboy

You might want to think twice about saving the $1000 bucks or so. From my understanding the telescoping/adjustable lower link arms alone are worth almost that difference in price and IMHO worth it (they make changing 3 PT stuff a breeze). Other than that Bird Senter has the other features listed. The B2910 is a great tractor BTW - LOVE mine!

features
Kubota Tractors
Replies 27 Post by Elkoboy

One of the primary reasons I bought a Kubota B2910 instead of the New Holland TC29 was because the Kubota weighed less than the Boomer. I use my tractor primarily in the summer for finish mowing (got the 72 inch mid-mount mower) and felt that too much weight would be detrimental to my lawn.

In some applications it would be nice to have more weight (I could fill the tires but choose not to), but I have no regrets about having bought the Kubota. If you are going to be doing a lot of finish mowing, I believe weight is something to consider. If you're going to be doing a lot of loader and other utility work, you might want something heavier.

Regardless, the B2910 is a very good machine and I would readily recommend it to anyone looking for a compact utility tractor.

Kubota vs NH how important is weight
Kubota Tractors
Replies 10 Post by Elkoboy

I just had my dealer come and pick up my B2910 for its 50 hour maintainance. I was a little shocked when I got the bill. He charged me what I would consider a pretty hefty fee to haul the tractor about 30 miles. What would a reasonable hauling fee to trailer a compact tractor about 30 miles or a per mile charge be?Thanks.

Reasonable Hauling Fee
Parts and Repair
Replies 5 Post by Elkoboy

I had a B2910 under warranty that had a sticking valve in the 3 point unit that caused it to be inoperative and was replaced by my dealer. My dealer told me that after numerous inquiries to Kubota he finally found someone who admitted that they had a manufacturing defect with a valve in the 3 point unit and had made a lot of replacements.

Not sure of the exact valve they're talking of, and if it's the same unit as in the B2710, but since mine has been replaced I have had no problems. You might want to talk to your dealer if you're still under warranty and see what he says.

Need the 3PT relief valve location on a B2710
Kubota Tractors
Replies 5 Post by Elkoboy