Go BottomB7200 Charging Problem
 | FrankC
Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 0 Lansing, KS 
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2002-06-17 39607
My B7200 is having a charging problem. When it is cold, everything works fine, but as is warms up, the charging light begins to go on when the machine is idling. When it first comes on it is dim with the machine idling around 1100. If I up the idle to 1250 it will go out. As the machine gets hotter the light glows brighter at 1100 and it takes a higher RPM to get the light to go out. When it is hot, it takes an RPM of 1550 - 1600 to keep the light out.
The things I have tried:
I disconnected the battery while the machine was running and it continued to run fine.
I cleaned the battery terminals and connectors.
I tightened the alternator belt.
None of the above have changed anything. I believe that it is a problem because the battery had to be replaced awhile back, so I think the charging system is slowy eating the battery. Is there anything between the alternator and the battery? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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 | Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York 
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2002-06-17 39609
Remove the alternator and take it in and have it checked. You didn't say if you were having any trouble starting your tractor yet since the battery replacement. The regulator could also be the problem but it is probably the alternator. ....
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| DavidJ
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 62 Alabama
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2002-06-17 39611
Sounds to me like you have a bad rectifier or a bad regulator. A shorted diode will allow AC current to flow into the battery and causes havoc with it. It's easy to check using a voltmeter set it for AC voltage and see what it reads. It should have a very small amount of AC if any at all. I would also check the DC voltage at different RPM's. You should have in the neighborhood of 14 volts. If the regulator is bad it could be undercharging or even overcharging the battery, both are not good for the Batt.
If you want to take the alternator off the unit, most auto parts are able to test the alternator for you. ....
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| FrankC
Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 0 Lansing, KS
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2002-06-17 39614
After it runs hot for awhile, the battery will have some trouble turning the engine.
To check the AC and DC voltage, do I do that at the battery? ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-06-18 39635
A manual would have a series of about a half-dozen tests for the charging system. You can't really tell for certain what's going on without running the formal tests. Unfortunately many of the tests use a carbon pile to place loads on the system around the max capacity of the alternator. Most people don’t have a load, but a less formal alternative for cars is to just turn on all the accessories. Most tractors don't have enough accessories except for ones with a bunch of work lights.
Without a manual, I'd use a hydrometer to test the battery capacity and then check the DC voltage at the battery. With a reasonable charged battery the DC voltage should be 14 - 15V and shouldn’t change much with engine RPM on most systems. If the battery’s OK and the voltage is there, I'd do as Art says and take the alternator to a shop, and I might replace the regulator on general principal The rectifier bridge seems a likely candidate, because I believe semi-conductors tend to break down easier when they’re warm.
Of course, all that could be done and the problem still could be a ring continuity problem. In my own case, I never thought my battery was coming quite up to full charge. I found the alternator output terminal was still coated with factory blue paint that probably had been there for 15-years. I'm not certain, but I believe that burnishing the contacts improved the charging. Anyway, anything resistive in the alternator or regulator circuits can interfere with the charging system.
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