Go Bottombox graders ballast requirements for jd790
 | Glenn Fitzgerald
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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2001-01-06 23127
I recently purchased a new 790 with a loader and are beginning to research implements. I'll be using the machine to contour dirt roads, assist in building a home, skidding small logs from the woods etc. My property is located on the side of a hill so I'm looking for any safety advise that anyone might have to offer. Can anyone recommend a good after market box grader that is well made? If a box grader is attached,is additional weight needed when using the loader? Is the loader generally used for ballast when using rear implements? What are the general rules for such? Are axle extenders available for increasing the stance of the tractor?
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| Jim Youtz
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2001-01-06 23135
I'll try to address some of your questions. Some good boxblade are made by: Landpride, Monroe Toughline, Bushhog, Rhino, Woods, and lots more. Buy the heaviest blade you can afford, they work better and last longer. For the money, I've had good luck with the Landpride equipment. Usually you should buy a blade that is about the same width as your rear wheels (or a bit wider). I don't believe you can extend your axles, but most of us reverse our rear wheels so that the tractor has a wider stance. Most people use a good heavy box blade for rear ballast when using a loader, but it depends on how heavy the material is in your front bucket. Most box blades only weigh 400-600 pounds, and you may need to use something else for rear ballast if you are moving very heavy material in your loader. Liquid filling rear tires or using wheel weights are another way to add weight. Some people add weight to the box blade or use a carryall with weight. Of course, there is also the ballast box which is designed for this purpose. Lots of options. The loader is excellant front end ballest for using rear implements. Also, if you should need more front end weight than the loader and frame provide, then you could just pick up a bucket of something to add weight. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
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2001-01-07 23154
I seem to recall a 15-degree maximum rule of thumb for operating on a side hill, but load, wheelbase, ballast and soil conditions all affect safe operation, so maybe it's better to use a carpenter’s rule of thumb--keep the thumb out of the way. I try to figure out how to stay off side hills myself.
I use a 6' scraper with my 5-foot stance tractor. With its turf tires, it can be traction challenged, but mostly when using the scarifiers. However, I do manage by using ballast, taking smaller bites and more passes. I use the scraper more for grading than ripping, and I like the extra width when cutting side-grades. For example, when crowing gravel roads, a 6' cut either side of my drives gives my about the right slope for the crown and about the right width on top. A shorter blade would leave the crown too wide and too flat on top, and then I'd have to fool around with making several cuts and each side of the drives.
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| Bird Senter
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 962 
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2001-01-07 23170
TomG, I thought the maximum that tractors are "supposed" to be designed for was 20 degrees; not taking into account any options, implements, soft spots or bumps in the terrain, etc. I've had my tractor, with 3-point finish mower, at 18 degrees with no problem except to my nerves. Personally, I get very unhappy over 12 degrees, very slow and cautious at 15 degrees, and don't really want to go over 15 at all. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2001-01-08 23195
Happy to be corrected, and also happy that my impression was on the conservative side. Yes, I don't like side hills either. When I first got my back hoe, I pondered over one safety instruction--'When on a side hill, always swing the bucket to dump on the up hill side.' It took awhile for the idea to settle in, and then came the 'Oh Yeah, got It' flash! ....
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