Go Bottomking kutter rotary mower questions
 | dbernardi
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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2000-05-12 16218
Anyone have a King Kutter rotary mower that can describe to me how to put together the lift arm and lift arm braces. I just brought it home today from Central Tractor and they've apparently done nothing to assemble it and when I following the manual it turns out different than the photo and I have some extra parts. http://www.kingkutter.com/kkrm.html#1 The lift arm braces and lift arm straps don't align as a flat surface (seems like the straps should have a slight bend at the bolt hole ends so that there is proper surface area contact. lift arm || || || || || <---- lift pin goes through here which can never be flush || || || || lift arm strap; angled front to back |||||| |||||| |||| |||| ||______||___________deck # 2 there's a lift arm brace that goes from the top of the lift arm to the rear A frame that holds the wheel assy. A similar thing happens. The lift arm brace meets the A frame which is at about a 30 deg. angle. Once again, where the parts bolt together there is not a flat surface.|| //|| //||// <--- bolt goes here||/||||||#3 there is a U shaped bracket and 2 spacers which I assume is where the top link attaches. The drawings or manual doesn't show these. It just shows 2 sets of holes and the lower hole is where the lift arm brace goes. Don't know if the U bracket or spacer or both go in there. No matter how I do attach it the gap between the 2 lift arms is greater than my top link pin (which fits all my other attachments. I guess I could slice off some of the spacer. There is a feature listed on the WWW page called a "Top Link Swivel" which may have something to do with the U bracket.Not to mention there's no grease fittings, oil in the gear box. Oh yea, the damn wheel doesn't roll either.I would appreciate hearing from anyone that can describe what the top of the lift arm assembly looks like.Not sure if this is just a cheasy design by king kutter, bad documentation, the bozo's at central tractor OR I'M JUST PLAIN STUPID! I'm half tempted to stop payment $500 and tell CT to come and get it. Anyone know where I can get a decent working 60" rotary mower for $500? Thanks in advance.Dave Bernardi
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| dbernardi
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2000-05-12 16219
Ops. ascii art didn't survive the non-proportional font. sorry ....
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| Doug Huebner
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2000-05-13 16227
I feel your pain. I have several King Kutter implements and they all seem to suffer from the same problems. I am not sure from your drawings, which connections you are having problems with. In general what I did was to put all the bolts in with the nuts just on and tighten them down until it [more or less] drew the connections into place. It may take some strong-arming to get the bars to where you need them and the holes lined up. You may also have to use a clamp to draw the connections togther enough to get the not on the bolt. This was for both the rotary and the box scraper.
We went through the same bit of consternation with the horseshoe shaped piece. The final conclusion was to connect it to the top of the frame where the top arm connects, with the closed end up. This piece is what the top arm connects to and gives a degree of "flex" to the connection when going over uneven ground. It works pretty well in most cases. If the uneven-ness is more severe, you may drive the front of the rotary into the ground a bit or lift it. An alternative is to use a chain in place of the top arm.
Once assembled it has performed quite satisfactorily and seems to be tougher than the JD which is twice the price. As I remember, you need to fill the mower's crankcase also before using it.
Hope that helps ....
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| dbernardi
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2000-05-13 16234
Doug,
Thanks! Oddly enough I was able to get everything to line up after looking at the photo in the sale paper advertisment, which is not exactly the same as the photo on the Web page or the operators manual. I bent the braces and straps slightly and have a pretty decent fit now.
Now I have some other questions.
What position/length should the top link be set. I am used to leveling implements with the top link. It doesn't seem possible with the top link swivel.
And how do I keep the front of the mower from riding on the ground. The rear is supported by the wheel but the front rest on the ground.
Thanks,
....
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| droz
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2000-05-13 16239
I think one of things that you pay for when you get the higher priced implements is proper assembly and instructions. I have the King Kutter 5' tiller and I am not sure what language the instructions were supposed to be in but it wasn't the English I knew. Speaking of crankcase oil, they said to fill each crankcase 1/3 full. On one there is a drain plug that I believe is set at 1/3 but on the other there was no way to measure it except with a stick in the crankcase. Does anyone have experience with this? ....
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| Jim Warrell
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 14
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2000-05-14 16282
I measured with a piece of eigth inch thick copper wire with yellow plastic coating, from bottom of gear box (top unit) to bottom of threaded filler hole. Curve top of wire for finger grip, measure up from bottom of wire one-third, mark vinyl coating with cutters and you have a King-Kutter dip-stick. Jim in Idaho ....
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| Doug Huebner
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2000-05-15 16290
Dave: The mower rides on the back wheel and the two lower arms - adjust either to set depth of cut. I have read that it is best to have the front slightly higher. I set the top arm so that the "horseshoe" is straight up when you have the deck at the level you want it. That way you have equal give in either direction when you encounter uneven ground. ....
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