Go Bottomoil leak on crankside of 6x4 gator
 | DREWW1
Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 3 ny 
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2011-03-29 177683
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now here is where I stand, I bought a 2002 liquid cooled 6x4 gator w/ the Kawasaki 18hp motor and 301 hours for $700. Engine was seized and after 2 weeks of pouring Marvel oil/wd40 down the spark plug holes, I finally unseized the motor.
Motor runs fine and I do not see any issues with it other than an OIL LEAK from the crankside of this motor. Being that I bought this at auction and have no clue of the prior history, I assume that it already had the oil leak prior to the engine seizing which is probably what seized the engine to begin with.
I have the plastic cover off the flywheel and can clearly see that theres a considerable oil leak from somewhere POSSIBLY behind the flywheel?(The heads/valve covers do not seems to be leaking and look fairly dry) After the motor runs approx 5 minutes it starts to leak(obviously because the oil thins and is now making its way through the engine). I removed the flywheel as quickly as possible to see if I could located the leak, but theres really no way of telling since oil is thrown all over the place because of the spinning flywheel. I also inspected the crank seal and it shows no cracks and is really clean(as it should be). Could it still be this seal? Are there any plugs on this side that could be leaking? I'd love to hear some input.
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 | spyder
Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 78 East of Taihape, New Zealand
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2011-03-30 177697
Hi there,
been through this exact same scenario. You will need to replace the seal, and also the main bearing.
You should download the tech. manual TM1518
http://rapidshare.com/files/338458124/Gator_Utility_Vehicles_4x2_And_4x6-TM1518.pdf
You will see that there is nowhere else for oil to be leaking from. However, pay attention to the breather valve in the top of the engine - it is suppposed to maintain a vacuum in the crankcase which helps keep the oil in. You should probably check it out before you do anything else just to make sure it isn't broken.
The engine in my Gator had done 2100 hours when I acquired it (seized).
Since I was going to the trouble of dismantling it anyway, I decided to replace the rings and all the seals and gaskets. (The big ends were in good condition, so I left them alone).
The total cost of rebuilding the engine was around 800 New Zealand dollars, with the gaskets being the bulk of it. Next time around, I'd shop around rather than buying the parts through John Deere. The only part of the engine that is specific to John Deere is the crankshaft.
Good luck with it. ....
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| DREWW1
Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 3 ny
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2011-03-30 177700
thank you for the response and heads up. I already ordered the parts and will be replacing them as soon as I receive them. Without having to check the manual(which sometimes isnt too helpful) can I just pop the crank seal right out? Or do I have to remove the cover? ....
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| spyder
Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 78 East of Taihape, New Zealand
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2011-03-30 177707
You will have to remove the crankshaft to do the job, so yes you will be removing the cover, water pump, big ends, etc. You will (probably) need new gaskets. Whether or not the main bearing is damaged you will see once the crankshaft is out.
The main bearing is just a bush which is pressed in. You might need to take the engine to a machine shop to get the old bush pressed out and new one replaced.
Don't be dismissive about the tech. manual - it is the Bible when it comes to Gator maintenance! Provided you follow the manual EXACTLY you shouldn't have any problems.
I'd suggest you read the appropriate section(s) a couple of times before you start and print off the page about the order of insertion of the crankcase bolts and their torque settings. Likewise, the torque settings for the big ends.
Don't forget to check the oil breather. You'll probably need a new gasket here also.
Cheers
....
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