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alternator performance

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civilkane
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 3 Olalla, WA
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2008-11-15          157903

I have a Yanmar 1510D and suspect that the alternator is not providing current to the battery. The battery is new.

The alternator has two blue wires that appear to connect to the regulator.

Does the unit produce AC or DC output and how can I determine whether the alternator is functioning correctly?

Thank you.


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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2008-11-15          157904

Basic troubleshooting would require a volt meter.

What symptoms are you having that makes you suspect that the alternator is not working? If the battery is losing charge, over what period of time is the charge lost and how low does the voltage go?

An alternator naturally produces AC current, however there will be a series of diodes somewhere in the circuit converts it to DC. Usually the diodes are built right into the alternator.

With the engine off the battery voltage should measure about 12.6V. With the engine running the alternator should provide a voltage of probably 13.5-14 volts or so.

If you don't get that voltage it could be the alternator, regulator, or wiring harness. Your alternator may have a built-in regulator. The best way to test an alternator is to take it to an electrical shop (or maybe NAPA) and have them bench test it. ....

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2008-11-15          157905

The output of your alternator is DC. The output post is typically marked B+. If in doubt, it's typically a larger gauge wire than the other two or three wires that go to the voltage regulator and idiot light if so equipped. A properly operating alternator should put out up to +14.5 volts. Note however, that the higher the battery charge state, the less charging voltage it will draw from the alternator. In other words, a low battery will draw max voltage from the alternator. A fully charged battery will draw only maintenance voltage. That explains why you may never see the same reading twice.

Set your multimeter to read DC volts, and select the lowest scale that includes 14.5 volts. Put the positive probe on the + post of the battery. Touch the negative probe to the - post. Observe the reading. A good battery should indicate between 12.6 and 13.2 volts. Put the tractor in neutral, set the brake and start the engine. Repeat the battery voltage measurement and observe the reading. There should be an increase. The difference between the second reading and the first represents charging voltage to the battery.

Shut off the engine, move the multimeter to the alternator. Tighten the alternator belt if necessary. Start the engine again. The engine restart will drain the battery a little so that fresh charging voltage will be excited out of the alternator for you to see on the multimeter. The positive probe should go on the alternator B+ post, the negative probe on a good ground point. Observe the voltage reading. If it is significantly higher than the 2nd reading you observed at the battery, you're losing voltage in your tractor wiring. The simplest solution is to run a fresh piece of stranded and insulated 10AWG between the B+ post and the hot post on the starter. That bypasses wiring harness losses, by routing charging voltage straight to the battery.

Don't know about your particular Yanmar, but some had a fuse between the alternator and the battery. All else could be good, but a blown charging fuse can completely stop all charging voltage from getting to the battery.

//greg//

....

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civilkane
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 3 Olalla, WA
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2008-11-16          157906

Thanks for the responses.

I do have a digital meter and have discovered that the battery voltage at rest is 12.4. Voltage drops some in response to the staring operation and, during engine operation, does not increase as it should in response to normal alternator output. There is no current getting to the battery, but I do not yet know whether this is the result of an alternator, regulator of wiring fault.

Should I expect to see a potential across the conductors leading from the alternator? I would disconnect the connector and check with the engine running, of course.

I'll check this tomorrow.

Thanks for the input.

A L Kane ....

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2008-11-16          157907

For charging voltage on most older Yanmars, you should not need to concern yourself with the smaller gauge wires alternator wires. That's assuming it's equipped with a standard 3-wire alternator. One goes to the voltage regulator, one comes back from the voltage regulator, a 4th (if so equipped) typically feeds an idiot light on the dash. The voltage on these wires is only for instrumentation, lighting, and accessories. Charging voltage is on the larger gauge wire connected to the alternator B+ post. But if you disconnect it, the alternator no longer sees the battery load - so you won't get representative charging voltage readings on the multimeter. Check with the engine running and the wires CONNECTED.

//greg// ....

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2008-11-16          157909

The heat and vibration under the hood are hard on wires, so start with continuity testing from the battery back.

Yanmar alternators often function for the life of the tractor, but the original voltage regulators seem to last about as long as the fan belt (which you should also check). It is possible that incorrect jump-starting damages them. They cost a bit but I've not heard of one of the new solid-state ones failing.

While troubleshooting, you can use the tractor. After it's started, turn the key to off. No lights or horn, but you won't be draining the battery. After 20 or so starts, charge it.

Some owners hardwire a quick-connect terminal on the outside of the tractor going to the battery, and a matching terminal on their charger. When it's cold I connect a trickle charger between uses. (Those little alternators are designed for use in Japan, where the temps are milder and they tend to run their tractors for longer periods.) ....

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johnymcaffee
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3
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2009-09-09          165551

SPAM deleted by moderator "Murf".


BTW, for anyone who wants to register a complaint about the (now deleted) SPAM, they can direct their objections to that site's host at the below noted address;

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The offending party was:

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NB: You will need to replace the (AT) and (DOT) with the proper symbols. ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2009-09-09          165552

Are you on crack or something? What do harnesses have to do this? ....

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