Go Bottomhydraulic top link for kioti 3054
 | Freelad
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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2002-04-15 37448
I just finished puting together a hydraulic top link (3rd arm) on my 2002 kioti 3054 and thought i am posting this so if any one else is attempting this and had a question maybe i could help online. It is homemade from a parker 2.00" by 10.00" 3000psi cylinder i bought new through salvage, connected/controled by a parker tandam center two way valve
connected to the outlet of the auxilary (kioti) valve, and the return (tank) port of the parker valve to the "power beyond" port on the kioti's auxilary hydraulics. This thing
was definatly worth the effort. i have only used it once with my grader box and once all the air was out of the system there is no drift! I will post more with more use and look to see if any one has any questions.
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 | BillMullens
Join Date: Jun 2000 Posts: 649 Central West Virginia 
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2002-04-15 37460
Yes, please post more information and/or web links. I'd like to see how you did it.
Thanks, Bill ....
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| DK35vince
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 689 Western,Pa.
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2002-04-15 37472
I am also soon planning a hydrualic top link for my DK35.
Any info. would be helpful.. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
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2002-04-16 37482
A couple of comments. My hydraulic top-link came as part of my forklift, which is a CAT II implement. I think the hydraulic cylinder is 3 inches. I don't know if the larger cylinder is because it's part of a CAT II implement or because there could be high stress on the cylinder shaft.
Tipping a scraper back and forth isn't much of a load, but I don’tknow if the shaft of a 2" is adequate for the load shocks that might occur in operation. Myself, if I came up with the parts from salvage, I'd certainly use them. If I was buying new, I likely try to get a read on whether a larger cylinder might be better.
Regarding the plumbing: I run mine from a 3rd valve-controlled outlet on my loader valve. If I was plumbing an additional valve, I'd go from the PB outlet on my loader valve to the inlet on the new valve, and from the new valve outlet back to the PB hose on the loader valve. The PB hose on my 1710 returns to a manifold block and then on to the 3ph. If I ran the return directly to the sump, then the 3ph wouldn't work unless I changed the diverter valve to 'remote.'
In addition, I'd probably want the new valve to be a PB type, or at least to know that the new valve exhaust galleys are designed to withstand system pressures. My 3ph is behind the loader valve, and a heavy load on the 3ph while in lift mode creates system pressures on any valve in the line. Damage to some SCV's can occur if they are operated while the 3ph or other valve is creating high pressure in the line. Of course, with a salvage part, I might just use it and depend that I'll never work the valve and the 3ph at the same time.
I'm not sure if the Kioti is plumbed the same as my 1710, so the 1710 plumbing may be irrelevant. I' m also not certain I completely understood the description. I'm familiar with 'tank' referring to the low pressure return (or cylinder exhaust oil) port on PB valves. The line goes directly to the sump, and the port on the valve is an outlet port. Anyway, I hope there's a few things that are helpful to think about here.
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| freelad
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2002-04-18 37584
Tom brought up some valid points. The valve is 3000psi Vickers (i said parker then rechecked) so no problem there (just would rather had spring return, i bumped it to "a" port once and could hear the relief open and the coresponding load on tractor), the lift and the hyd top link can not operate at the same time the way i have it hooked up (in series) and have not needed or forseen a need to have both articulate simotaniously. I also wondered about the size of the cylinder (mine a 3000psi 2" by 10" Parker) but i already have six hours on it using 6' box scraper & 6' finish mower and it seem plenty adequate (time will tell the full story). I think a lot of people use a 2.5" by 8" or 2.5" by 10". For a dk35 or larger this might be best. for piping i hooked the outlet on the kioti aux hyd to the pressure port of the vickers (a two way tandem center 3000psi valve) and the pressure beyond on the kioti aux hyd to the tank port on the vickers valve then the "A" port of vickers to one side of cylinder, and the "B" port of the vickers to the other end of cylinder (makes no difference witch end is hooked to "A" or "B" ports) the turn the manual valve on the kioti aux hyd (3/4" bolt head) clockwise to the stop. If this does not work you probably have your "pressure beyond" port and your "inlet" port on the kioti's aux hyd valve mixed up. I did this by the way it hurts nothing, fluid just returns to the tank unaposed.
you can buy banjo type fittings for $18 and change for connections on the kioti's aux hyd or do what i did and drill hole through the 3/4" plugs in the ports now and tap them to a 3/8" pipe fitting, take the money you would have spent on that and buy beer (henceforth refered to as product). A side note... a company called "Cheif" sells the hyd top link cylinder already made up (cat one or two ends) for $139.00 2.5" 2500psi cyl, sounds like a decent price... anyone? most of u will still have to get the valve, that was my bigest problem. My dealer said tractor supply had something like the valve in question for around $70.00 but i never investigated. I am just beginning to see how usefull and more versatile this makes my tractor. It was the effort. Happy tractoring, & consume product responsibly.
anymore questions i can i will try to answer. ....
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| freelad
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2002-04-18 37594
I just found a place that sells the chief cylinders for ag use. It is Bailey sales in knoxville tn, 1-800-800-1810. the part # for a 2.5" by 10" is 2141131 (2500psi cylinder with clevis on each side) it is $67.00 for one, or $58.00 for five or more. you will have to take the butt end of the cylinder off and weld cat 1 hitch on the end (you must take it off or the heat will ruin the cyl and seals. on the rod end i welded cat 1 hitch to 1.25" fine thread nut that fit the rod threads then screwed it on and locked it in place with jam nut. the cat 1 ends i bought from tractor supply for $7.50 each. some people talk of wraping wet wrags around the shaft and welding directly on the shaft. i would not recomend this. the shaft is high carbon, and crome covered and welding to it without bringing it up to 400 degrees f would make it much more brittle than it started out. It might still be tough enough but why weeken it if you do not have to. I do not know about the quality of a chief cylinder, i would rather have a parker but that is only because i know they hold up well. There is one site that has the ends welded on the chief cylinder but the cheapest price i saw was $138.00 but i would never go that way when i could get the same thing with a little more effort for half price (but then i only have about $40.00 in my setup) Pay attention to what type/how many fittings you will need, it can cost twice as much to pipe it one way over the other. I was lucky i was able to use what came in the box of hyd stuff i bought for $15.00 (cyl, fittings,
hose and valve). Good luck and keep me posted. I have a friend with a digital camera i might see if i can take a picture of my setup and figure out how to post it as an attachment. if anyone knows tell me and it might save time.
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