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Cub Cadet 7360 addiing rear hydraulics

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paulmo
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2014-02-18          188991

I have a Cub Cadet 7360ss with loader, want to add hydraulic connection to rear of tractor for a log splitter.

Anyone know if there is a kit available, or ideas on how I might do my own ?

Thanks


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yooperpete
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2014-02-18          188992

I believe that is called power beyond. I have that on my Cadet 7275. You should be able to purchase this as a kit from your local dealer or if you have hydraulics knowledge you could piece it together yourself. If you would like photos, I could click a couple with my cell. ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-18          188994

There is a way to tap into the power beyond that I think goes to the three point lift arms,and being new at hydraulic stuff I am not sure what I'd be getting into. the only dealer near by is not helpful, and finding a kit online is confusing.
I would like to see the photo's of your system, maby I could see if it would work. Thanks paul ....

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yooperpete
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2014-02-18          188995

I'll try to get some photos tomorrow. It's snowed in with a 6ft. Tall drift that is about 150 ft. Long. ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-18          188996

Thanks for getting back, The snow where you are is serious!
We have nothing to complain about down here. Good luck, and no rush on the photos. Thanks, Paul ....

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chashm
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2014-02-18          188997

I assume you're getting a 3-point-hitch log splitter? It should come with the hydraulic valve for running the splitter cylinder so all you need to do is plumb between this valve and where the hydraulic manifold block is located - the right side just below/behind the engine.

I have a 7305; your 7360ss appears to be the same - the part number on the manifold block is the same in the parts manual, for sure.

There are 3 ports on the hydraulic block labeled P, N, and T - standing, roughly, for Power, beyoNd and Tank. The tractor's main hydraulic pump pushes hi pressure oil out the P port, hi pressure oil coming back goes into the N port and low pressure oil goes back into the reservoir (tank) via the T port. Your front loader is hooked up to all 3. The hi-pressure oil flowing in the N port is used to drive the 3-point-hitch cylinder which raises/lowers your implement.

Assuming you want to leave the loader attached, to add the log splitter, you connect the splitter's input line to the loader's N line. This gets hi pressure oil to the splitter.

The splitter is almost surely to be rigged with a 'power beyond'/open-center valve, in which case when the splitter control valve is in neutral , hi-pressure oil flows through the valve and then should be plumbed to the N port.

If the splitter is rigged with a a closed-center valve (the flow of oil is blocked when the valve is in neutral, the unlikely case), then the return line should be plumbed to the T port and you'll need to arrange a T to send hi-pressure oil to the N port from the 'N' hose from the loader as well as to the splitter.

At a minimum, you'll need to measure and buy 2 hoses that run from the splitter to the manifold area plus a couple of quick-connects (one male and one female most likely). Depending on the way the quick-connects face on the manifold, you may want to get a Tee and add a second, rear-facing quick-connect for the N port. ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-19          189006

Thanks, This has been a great help, and much simpler than I thought I'd have to deal with. (and yes the splitter is a three point with a valve control) I believe the valve is an open center type, is there a quick way to check this out before hand? At any rate I just need to get out there and do some crawling around and locating some parts.
Great info!
Thanks Again,
Paul ....

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chashm
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2014-02-19          189009

Cub Cadet Hydraulic manifold block

The only reason to fiddle with the shutoff plate (it actuates a valve inside the manifold when you move it between S and O) is when you are attaching/detaching all hydraulic implements. The 'S' position is used when an implement is attached and sends hi-pressure oil to the P port with the expectation than your implement will return hi-pressure oil to the N port. The 'O' position is used when no implement is attached and connects P to N internally.

--------
As far as figuring out whether a valve is open-center, assuming nothing is hooked to the in/out ports (vs. the ports that go to the cylinder), just blow in it. If you can blow when it's in neutral, it's open-center.

----------
Another comment... The splitter valve is likely to have a pressure relief valve built-in. So does your loader and so does the tractor's hydraulic manifold block. The tractor's is set at around 2100psi, the loader's at around 1500-2000psi, depending on model. Who knows what the splitter's setting is. To get maximum splitting force, you may need to disconnect the loader from the hydraulic circuit by disconnecting the short hose on the loader's P line and connecting it to the input line to the splitter.
----------
Especially if the splitter is new (and thus the cylinder doesn't have oil in it yet), remember to check the hydraulic oil level after you run the splitter a few cycles to purge any air inside. You'll probably need to add a gallon or so if the splitter was empty. ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-19          189013

Thanks,The illustrations help clearify the manifold points.
I won't be messing with the O and S positions, as I plan on keeping the loader on all the time.
I do want to be sure I'm clear about running a line from the N port on the manifold to the IN side on the splitter valve,then running a line from the OUT side of the splitter valve back to the T port back to the tank correct?

Also when not in use these lines would then be Quick connected keeping the fluid loop unobstructed ? I will keep an eye on the fluid levels once connected!
....

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chashm
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2014-02-19          189035

With luck an annotated picture of my manifold will appear in a separate post. To hook up your splitter you:
1) disconnect the hose from the loader's valve that's hooked to the N port.
2) connect this hose to the IN line to the splitter
3) connect the OUT line from the splitter to the N port.

"Also when not in use these lines would then be Quick connected keeping the fluid loop unobstructed?"

I'm not sure what you mean. The quick-connects have built-in valves so they shouldn't leak (much) even when pressurized. If things are set up correctly, you'll end up with a male and a female on the hoses attached to the splitter and you can hook them together to keep dirt out when the splitter isn't hooked up. Extra quick-connects on the manifold aren't a problem - you can buy dust plugs for them or just remember to wipe them off before hooking up to them. ....

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chashm
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2014-02-19          189036

Note that this is for Loader+Backhoe. The Backhoe return is connected to the T port, disabling the 3-point lift.

For a splitter the return line should be hooked to the N port so the lift will work. ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-19          189039

my question about the loop has been answered. I'll attempt a clean job of making the hose connections, and
double check hose lengths.
Will I need to worry about taking a bath in hydraulic fluid to acomplish this?
I do appreciate all your help, and apologize for dumb questions. look forward to the pics of your manifold as you've set it up!

Thanks, P ....

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chashm
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2014-02-20          189072

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulmo | view 189039
Will I need to worry about taking a bath in hydraulic fluid to acomplish this?


Just make sure there's no pressure in the hydraulic loop before you mess with anything - turn the engine off and then wiggle the loader valve will do it. High-pressure oil will inject itself into your skin which won't be fun to deal with at the hospital, although hydraulic oil is pretty benign - less additives/etc. than motor oil - so don't worry about getting it ON your hands. ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-20          189077

Thanks, I'll watch out, One more question, assuming all is connected just as you've discribed, will I be able to
keep this set up on the tractor all the time?

In other words it goes back to me original question about creating a loop when the splitter is not hooked up.
everything connected, less the splitter. I'd use quick connect fittings to do this, It seems it should work, and connections to the N port could stay undisturbed.
What do you think? ....

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chashm
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2014-02-20          189080

If you don't use the 3-point for anything else, sure, leave the splitter attached. No reason to mess with the hoses till you want to take it off. It will also help balance the front-loader as the tractor can get so front-heavy with a full bucket that the back end lifts off the ground or you lose a lot of traction in the back.

If your quick-connects set up like mine, you should have a male and a female on the splitter; these can be hooked together in a loop while the splitter is not on the tractor.

To disconnect the splitter:
1) disconnect splitter's Out from the N port
2) disconnect splitter's In from the hose from the loader
3) connect this loader hose to the N port.
4) hook the splitter hoses together.
And your hoses are back the way you started. ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-20          189081

I do use the 3 point for a number of other things, but nothing requiring hydraulics. so leaving the hoses on, and connected together when not being used for the splitter,should be fine.
Do you use your set up for diffrent attachments, other than the loader and back hoe? Got the photo by the way! ....

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chashm
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2014-02-21          189098

Ah!
I had been assuming all along that you were permanently attaching the hoses to the splitter and all the quick-connects were down at the manifold. As each hydraulic implement is likely to need slightly different lengths of hose, this means every implement has dedicated hoses. This will require the least quick-connects (just a pair plus maybe an extra male for the N port facing backwards) than doing it with detachment at the splitter.

Sure, you can have the detachable end at/near the splitter and then just hook the hoses together when the splitter is detached. You'll need to figure out where to stow them on the tractor that's out of the way when the splitter isn't attached and you'll need at least 2 pairs of quick-connects.
---------
As was mentioned in one of the earliest posts, there is/was a remote hydraulic kit that installed a valve with a handle just to the right of the seat behind the 3-point lift lever and a couple of quick-connects on the right rear fender. It was designed to allow you to run a cylinder up/down/float while in motion, say for a top-link cylinder to allow you tilt an implement or a cylinder set up to rotate an implement such as a plow blade. These were model 444 and 445 auxiliary valve kits, not sure which model went with which tractor. These weren't really designed to run things like splitters and I expect the valve is set up with spring return to center ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-21          189103

Once I get things all together, I'll take a couple of photos to show you.
I was crawling around under the tractor to determine just what fittings I'd need, Coming out of the N port is a 90,on the hose running from the loader( which I'll probably just leave) I'll connect the new extention hose to it and run it back to just on top of the rear axel housing, where I'll Have a quick connect .and on to the IN side on the splitter. The same configuration with the hose running from the N port to top of rear axel,QC and on to the Out side on the splitter. I'll male and female those hoses as you suggested to avoid any mix up and secure everything out of the way.
Once again I thank you for your help walking me through all this, and soon now I'll be splitting wood!
The hoses from those quick connects to the splitter will be about 4' long, and I'll just leave them on the splitter.
If other implements need to be connected down the road, I'll make up the hoses for them as needed. ....

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candoarms
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2014-02-22          189127

Paulmo,

You probably have your mind set on installing rear hydraulic ports on your tractor, but I thought I'd post this for your information.

Running a log splitter on the three point hitch can be very handy. You'll love having the ability to move it around as you finish up with one log, then move on to the next.

I'm afraid, however, that you'll be very disappointed with the speed of your splitter when attached to your rear hydraulic outlets. My guess would be that your tractor will supply less than 8gpm to your outlets. Most log splitters operate best on about 11 gallons per minute, or more.

If you really want to speed up your splitter, place a PTO driven hydraulic pump on your rear output shaft, then install a hydraulic oil reservoir under your splitter's frame. This will provide your splitter with far more oil, making the cycle time much shorter. It will also make it super easy for you, as far as the hydraulic plumbing goes.

Check your tractor's specs on hydraulic output before spending too much time on this. You could end up being very disappointed in the splitter's performance.

Hope this helps.

Joel ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-22          189128

Joel,

Thanks for your input, I was trying to do all of this without spending too much, I may decide to go with a hydraulic pump later on after I've given this a try.

The speed was not the biggest issue, but rather saving my back from splitting by hand. So if it ends up taking too long I'll break down and look into a pump.

Thanks, Paul ....

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jobone
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2014-02-22          189129

I hate to be the negative guy here but while everyone has been talking about how to do it, the real issue is that this is a very very bad idea in the first place.

Cub Cadet Hydraulic fluid is super expensive, spliters need very larger reservoirs, they need big pumps and generate lots of heat that is very bad for your tractor hydraulics and you run them for long periods of time, you do not need those kind of hours on your tractor.

So if you are not pregnant with a 3PH log splitter its not too late to rethink this and just separate your big investment in the tractor and avoid future tractor headaches, you will be so so glad you did IMHO.
....

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candoarms
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2014-02-22          189130

Paul,

I thought I'd give you a few examples from my experiments with this.

Your tractor engine is probably a 4 cylinder, putting out about 36 horses. That's a whole lot of engine (and fuel) powering a log splitter at about half of its rated output.

A small gas engine will produce as much split wood per hour as that big diesel engine will produce, when running from remote hydraulics.

Don't ask me how I know these things. It's quite embarrassing.

Remote hydraulics aren't really designed to be used for continuous high-flow output. They are primarily designed to be used for small lift cylinders on a momentary basis....such as when adjusting the digging depth on a tow-behind cultivator.

Look around for a used PTO pump, such as those made by Prince. You'll be able to get about 20 gallons per minute out of one of those, making your log splitting sessions really enjoyable.

Joel ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-22          189131

chashm,

I'm back with more questions, I'm having trouble identifying the type of fitting I have coming out of the N port,...It's a tubelar elbow with a swivel connector on the top side nearest to the port,and swivels onto a larger male fitting mounted on the block itself.
I think the whole thing is 3/8" but am reluctant to unscrew it for fear that alot of hydraulic fluid will come poreing down on my head ?

Also I'm begining to appreciate how many different kinds,
and types of hydraulic fittings there are, with as many
different thread types as well. So far everything is connected up with the exception of the fore mentioned.

Getting this type and thread correct will help alot since it's a two hour round trip to town finding parts.


Thanks Again! ....

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candoarms
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2014-02-22          189132

Jobone,

You are so right, my friend.

When researching hydraulic outputs and fluid reservoirs for a log splitter, I discovered something very important.

In order to allow for proper cooling of the hydraulic fluid, it is very important to properly size your hydraulic fluid reservoir. Most fluid pressure manufacturers suggest a tank that holds twice as much fluid as the output from the pump.

If the hydraulic pump puts out 20 gallons per minute, the tank should hold appx 40 gallons. This can be downsized somewhat for a log splitter, because the splitter cylinder is under pressure only half of the time. However, for hydraulic motors, where pressure output is constant, a fluid reservoir must be very large.

My tractor's fluid reservoir holds only 4 gallons. Any pump putting out more than 2 gallons per minute will likely generate more heat than my tractor's reservoir would be able to dissipate.

Heat is a killer. Hydraulics must remain cool.

Joel ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-22          189133

Joel,

Thanks , you've given me alot more to consider, and I'll look around for a used pump. ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-22          189134

Thanks,

I haden't concidered the heat it could generate, I try to find a used pump it might be the best route to go!
....

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candoarms
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2014-02-22          189135

Paul,

I agree. A PTO pump would save your tractor's life!

Look for one sized to match your tractor's PTO horsepower output. I believe the Prince HC-PTO-7A would be a good fit for your tractor.

You could mount a hydraulic tank, under-slung below the splitter's I-beam, running the entire length of your splitter's frame.

Weld some feet on the bottom side of the tank, allowing you to dismount the splitter and let it stand on the ground at a height that allows for easy hook-up to your three point hitch.

You could build your own hydraulic tank using a 6x6 square steel tube with about a 1/8" thick wall. Weld a square cap on each end, then weld in some bungs allowing for oil screen and output lines, oil changes, and a return line with filter.

Pull cool oil from one end of the tank. Push hot oil into the opposite end.....allowing time for cooling before returning to the pump.

Joel ....

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jobone
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2014-02-22          189136

Further details on this go like this if you had Portable log spliter you should have the Filter and Fluid changed every 50 hours.

Your tractor when used as a tractor has fluid changes 200 to 300 hours. When used as a splitter you should probably change it at much less than 50 hours.

The fluid you put in a splitter only costs $8 per gallon, the stuff for the Cub Cadet can cost up to $50 from the dealer.

Using your tractor as a splitter is costly
....

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candoarms
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2014-02-22          189137

Paul,

Another benefit of having the PTO pump running separate from your tractor's hydraulic system........

1. You could use a fairly cheap hydraulic oil in your splitter's reservoir. No need to run the expensive HTB (hydraulic, tranmission, brake) fluid.

2. When your splitter is sitting idle for months on end, a small amount of water will gather in your splitter's reservoir. It's a natural process that can't be prevented. Since this water won't be running through your tractor's internal pump, it won't be a major issue for you.

3. Should you somehow accidentally contaminate your splitter's fluid with sawdust (Fill cap fell off while cutting firewood) you won't need to worry about anything getting into your tractor.

Hope this helps.

At any rate, putting rear hydraulic outlets on your tractor isn't a waste of time. You'll be able to swing a rear grader blade, or run a hydraulic snowblower chute with those. They're nice to have......just not good for hydraulic motors or anything requiring continuous operation.

Joel ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-22          189138

Thanks you guys, This has been a learning curve for me, lots to think about and a chance to put something together
that will last awhile. I'd hate doing any harm to the tractor!
Thanks Again! ....

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jobone
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2014-02-22          189139

Using your PTO to a separate pump and reservoir is you best option if you have the 3PH splitter already.

But your Diesel Tractor will have to run at almost full throttle to get 540 rpm's and it will burn about a gallon of fuel an hour.

A standalone splitter with a 8hp motor will run all day on a gallon of gas and is your best option if you were starting from scratch.

The same logic applies to putting a genset on the PTO, a stand alone Honda is better option. I know it is so tempting to make that big investment in your tractor pay off. Bur some of these just do not pay off very well, once again, just my view for you to consider.

Have fun though, it is neat what you can do with these things :-) ....

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candoarms
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2014-02-22          189140

Jobone,

I appreciate all of your comments on this topic. A few times along the way we were typing at the same time. I had to smile, as we think a lot alike.

Nice meeting you, Sir. I enjoy the conversations and the great advice you have to offer.

Joel ....

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candoarms
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2014-02-22          189141

You're very welcome, Paulmo.

It's one of the benefits of being a member of this great community. There's always something to be gained from having a good conversation with others who have faced these issues, time and time again, over the years.

Happy to have been of some help to you.

Joel ....

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paulmo
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2014-02-22          189142

jobone,

I appreciate your help, I already have the splitter, and with alittle work I'll be able to convert it to work off a seperate fluid and power source.
The splitter is a 16 ton with a 3.5" x 24" cylinder, mounts on the three point, so maybe some legs would be in order.
I dont know how much it would run to convert to a gas motor
opperated set up but it would be worth checking out!
Might have been the way to go from the start, ( live and learn!)
Thanks Again! ....

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jobone
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2014-02-24          189179

Quote:
Originally Posted by candoarms | view 189140
Jobone,I appreciate all of your comments on this topic.A few times along the way we were typing at the same time.I had to smile, as we think a lot alike.Nice meeting you, Sir.I enjoy the conversations and the great advice you have to offer.Joel


Thanks Joel, this thread made good reading I think they ought to have a Tractor Project Contest here, this site has some very handy talent on board. I would like to see more of it! ....

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Cub Cadet 7360 addiing rear hydraulics

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chashm
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 77 United States
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2014-03-01          189356

OK, time for me to express some contrarian opinions.

1) Yes, you need to use hydro fluid rated for wet brakes, hydrostatic transmission (if you have it), etc. But $50/gal???? Lordy, your dealer is taking you for a ride. How about $10/gal at Tractor Supply... The manual says STOU (super tractor oil universal) or even TOU is all that's required for a 7360.

2) I have a 7305 (30hp, hydrostatic transmission). It has about a 6 gallon reservoir for all hydro uses (and two filters; go figure...) - front power steering, hydrostatic transmission, hydro pump for all the accessories & 3 point lift, etc. Driving the tractor, especially if pulling a plow, is going to put more load on the hydro fluid than any log splitter will. Now, the 7360 has a gear-shift transmission but doesn't have an oil cooler. Anyway, [/b]I[/b] think worries about heat are overrated and a 15 gal reservoir isn't necessary.

3) Splitting wood is hardly a high duty cycle on the hydraulic system unless you're a lot faster than I am. And it certainly isn't a hydraulic motor, like you might have on a tiller, say. At best, you're doing a little better than 1 split per minute and there's only 'real' load on the rig for 25% of that time if you happen to have hard-to-split wood. I bet I'm pushing the hydraulics much harder when I'm using the backhoe - it's in constant motion when digging. So I think all this worry about heat, a small reservoir and abusing the pump is way overstated.

4) Is a pump on the PTO better? Well, you do have an isolated hydraulic circuit, so no worries about getting bad stuff in your tractor's hydraulic system. But you're still putting hours on the engine and the tractor's hydraulic pump is still pumping (there's no clutch on it), so seems to me shelling out for the PTO pump & building a reservoir &tc. isn't a good way to spend time and money vs. using the tractor's built-in capability.

5) Yes, a standalone splitter with a small gas engine is probably more fuel-efficient. However, I think you got the splitter for free (or close to it). You gotta burn a lot of extra diesel to match the $100s you're going to plow into adding a standalone engine & pump. ....

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DennisCTB
Join Date: Nov 1998
Posts: 2707 NorthWest NJ
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2014-03-02          189364

Continue reading about this under Tractor Porjects Part 1 link below: ....


Link:   Tractor Splitter Build Part 1

 
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Peter666
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2015-04-27          192662

To chasm post note 188997, thank you thank you for explaining the letters on my CubCadet valve block. I'm currently putting a bucket loader on my tractor. I could not fine information on what those letters meant ( P N T). I've been looking at them for 20 years where did U fine this information. Thank U again peter666 ....

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Peter666
Join Date: Apr 2015
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2015-04-27          192663

To chasm post note 188997, thank you thank you for explaining the letters on my CubCadet valve block. I'm currently putting a bucket loader on my tractor. I could not fine information on what those letters meant ( P N T). I've been looking at them for 20 years where did U fine this information. Thank U again peter666 ....

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chashm
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 77 United States
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2015-04-27          192668

Hmm...
Well, the hydraulic block description is not in the owner's manual.

There is a page in the service guide that covers it pretty well - the last page of Section 4, Hydraulics.
I think I can attach it... ....

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chashm
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 77 United States
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2015-04-27          192669

Hydraulic Block ....

Picture Link
Cub Cadet Cub Cadet 7360 addiing rear hydraulics
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