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 06-04-2012, 08:59 Post: 183758
alchemy



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 Belarus Starters


This could be for discussion for anything to do with belarus starters but here is my problem.
I got this starter for my 1979 250 AS and it does not fit. The ad clearly states for 1979 250 AS .

NEW STARTER BELARUS TRACTOR 250 300 400 400A 405A 420A 425A SBE0003 | eBay

This starter has a nose/bendix opening that is too far counterclockwise if facing the nose side. It hits the flywheel while the bolt holes are about 1/4" from lining up. Actually the bendix opening should be about 30 deg CW from where they have it. The nose length and width are smaller also and the gear sets out a little further. Measuring the flywheel teeth to mount face and that of this starter it looks to me as it would still work, leaving about 3/16" between the flywheel teeth and the bendix gear with the solenoid at rest, as long as I could get the holes to line up. I have a couple ideas to try since they require me pay return shipping and then it's at their discretion whether they want to refund or not.
Even though they print that it fits a 250 AS 1979 in bold print at the very beginning there was nothing about nose differences and then they print later and smaller "must match part numbers." Well I could not read part numbers but after closer inspection later I saw CT222 a distant "T" then more bizarre characters. They state CT222A .
I may try to just cut a 1/2"X 1 1/14" rectangular slot at the edge of the nose where the flywheel, redrill bolt holes, or make a mounting adapter of some sort. I also considered just switching the mount face and nose with my old one but I think the shaft length is different.
Please post your knowledge, experience, or ideas if you have any.

update Actually, they were extremely kind on the phone and said I could try it by clamping it in place before I modified it and said they would take it back if it did not work even if it chewed up the bendix. They would, of course, just take it back for a refund if I wanted to do that. I would probably have to pay return shipping on 38#. Their ad legal stuff and policies must have been written by an outside lawyer because they are actually very kind, flexible, knowledgeable and understanding.
I suspected they must have knowledge and ideas on this problem but I have an ebay tool which allowed me to look for negative feedback and others who have bought this starter. I could not find anyone having problems with them or discrepencies on this starter. They have sold 11. Maybe my starter version is not common?






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 06-04-2012, 12:50 Post: 183760
alchemy



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Tested it to assure it would work if I modified the mounting. All I ended up doing to test it was just turning it counterclockwise so the bolts would go in the holes on the bellhousing and not the starter yet the washers would catch on the starter mount flange.
Worked awesomely well. Started it several times and had to check to see if the engine was even turning it was so fast. It would even turn it fast with the decompression lever engaged, Ran it for a while listening for noise then pulled it back out. No sign of scoring, rubbing etc. So this starter will work for this tractor with minor modification. After seeing what I did to try it I may just perfect that by making an adapter plate or 3 stout "slats with pins" shaped like an L and not alter the starter or tractor at all






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 06-04-2012, 18:25 Post: 183762
alchemy



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It's done. As I began to make a bracket which would have been made from 1/8 steel plate with holes for the bolts to the bellhousing and rods or bolts for the starter holes, I realized this would take an hour or two as opposed to just cutting some off the edge of the nose. I cut a place approx. 1/2 inch deep and about 1 1/2 " long (rectangular cutout). Tried to go slow and very careful not to cut where I didn't want to and make it real neat. It cut unexpectedly fast and I did score places I did not want to because of that but it won't affect anything. Only took about 2 minutes with a 4" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. Made to 1/2 cuts inward and then a partial cut connecting them long ways then broke of the cutout with a hammer and then smoothed the rough places. Basic stuff. It left about 90% of the nose circumference unchanged. When I tried it I found it would actually turn a huge 1 1/4 inch PAST the holes before it hit the flywheel opposed to hitting 1/4" before the holes before I cut it. That meaans I could have probably just cut 1/4 " or less deep instead of 1/2".
Tried it, worked perfect, no scoring, nothing rubbing, no heat. I had pictures but I guess you can't upload here.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Belarus Forum

Thread 183758 Filter by Poster:
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