Tractorpoint Login

print < Tractorpoint Login

Search for =

Topic

Good input Mark.

Actually, it freezes where I am, elevation 3,000 feet, even snows here couple of times a year. It doesn't freeze "hard" (like below zero F) more than once in about every 10 years - but it does get into the "teens" quite often. The JD dealer is familiar with the area, so when he filled my rear tires he said he put in an anti-freeze and water solution. I don't know the ratio he used, or what antifreeze he used.

The rear wheel weights are very good, the best. But they are also very expensive compared to fluid.

As I've said on here before, if I had a box scraper for the 770, I would have 3 rear wheel weights on each side just like the loader manual says to use.

Fitch

JD 870 price
John Deere Tractors
Replies 12 Post by Fitch

I've owned a lot of pickup trucks including Ford (T444 Navistar), Chevy (6.5 turbo diesel), Dodge 1 ton Diesel, and two Dodge Cummins 2500s. All the dodge/Cummins have had manual transmissions. The two I still have are a 2001 2500 QC 6 spd with HO Cummins, 4.10 axle (which is at college with the youngest daughter), and a 1999 3500 QC with the Cummins, 5 spd, and 3.55 axle.

The 3500 gets 19.6 mpg unloaded, day in and day out. Pulling the 3 horse sooner gooseneck horse trailer loaded it gets around 15 mpg. I also have a 10,400 lb GVW flat bed rear pull trailer for hauling my toys (Ford 2600, JD 770, Toyota 2FG20 fork lift, IHI G70EX excavator). The forklift takes the trailer up to 10,300 lbs. With the fork lift as cargo, the truck will effortlessly climb the 14 FWY grade out of Santa Clarita to the Escondido summit in Acton (elevation 3258 feet) at 60 mph in 4th gear with the cruise control set and not have any problem when its 105F outside.

Someone may, someday, put a better, longer lasting, more reliable, more fuel efficient engine in a mass produced Pickup Truck than the 5.9 liter Cummins, but near as I can tell they haven't done it yet. I've personally seen 4 of them that were over half a million miles with only a valve job at 350K. That engine is simply amazing. It will last longer than you can stand to look at the truck, and then some.

The rest of the truck is about equivalent in quality to the Chevy or Ford. They are all at best only mediocre in quality - but then they are competing with each other so one would probably expect that. The Cummins engine stands out from the Duramax and PowerStroke.

It is also probably significant that I've had 3 of the Dodges, but only one of either the Chevy or Ford. I've also owned a Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually with a 460 gas engine in it. Very nice truck, pull about any load you could hook to it, but the milage was really awful - worse than that even.

Did I mention I think the Dodge Cummins with manual transmission is an awsome toy towing machine?

Fitch

The beast built for towing
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 6 Post by Fitch

I happen to have a JD 770, which has been as reliable as gravity. I don't see many problems posted about it on this board either. I drove a JD 60 in my youth and developed a strong liking for green machines. So I'm a bit biased.

I looked at JD, Kubota, and Ford/New Holland. Either would have been acceptable. My number 1 criteria was being able to get parts for it in 15 or 20 years. New Holland and JD both support tractors for decades.

I'd avoid the gray market tractors like a disease.

My bias for JD, and the incredibly slick loader mount/dismount on the JD were the deciding factor.

I strongly agree with the recommendation to leave the tractor at the dealers until you have some weight for the back end. If you will be getting a loader and box scraper - then have the rear tires filled with fluid, and put on a couple of the cast iron rear wheel weights on each rear wheel. Box scrapers aren't nearly heavy enough on their own to make the tractor safely stable. You will like its material handling ability with the loader on it a whole lot better when you have the weight on the back.

Fitch

JD4210 vs Kuby 3010
John Deere Tractors
Replies 58 Post by Fitch

At some risk of getting back to the original topic <G>:

About 6 months ago I had my septic tank replaced. It was a steel tank (I know, steel is a terrible choice for septic tank, no clue why it was used). It was also located under the drive way on the side of the house where heavy things drive all the time. It looked pretty bad when it was dug up. It was rusted through like "tear on the dotted line" along the water line on both sides. The leech line was half plugged, and needed to be "fixed".

Fixing the leech line means cutting into it where it stops being good, zig zagging to one side, and installing a new extension.

I put in a new traffic rated concrete 1,200 gallon, double chamber tank. The traffic rated tank can have a semi drive over it and not have a problem.

The previous owner had it pumped exactly once - right before we bought the house. Our neighbor let his go for 5 years and ended up replacing the whole leech line. Lots of bucks.

Our local pumpers say that the tanks can go 3 or 4 years but only with some risk - better to pump every two years. Experience, talking with neighbors, bears this out. Those that have pumped every two years have had no leech field problems (but the steel tanks are all failing - they were installed in 1988). Those that go 3 or 4 years or longer get bad smells, backed up systems, and have to replace the whole thing.

Pick your pony, take your ride. We decided we would pump every two years whether it needs it or not, so the new tank was installed with a traffic rated cast iron manhole cover on each chamber.

Fitch

Septic Tank Pumping -- Do you need to
Home Improvement
Replies 73 Post by Fitch

Mark,

Although I've managed to work around it after some frustration, I absolutely understand the confusion. The John Deere (and likely other vendors as well) furnished manuals do not provide the data required to do a detailed job of configuring ballast - lots of missing data.

My manual for the 70 loader on my 770 tractor says:

3. Add weight to rear of tractor:
- put fluid in rear tires. See tractor operators manual.
- Install wheel weights. See Rear Wheel Weights in this section.
- Fill ballast box with sand. See Ballast Box in this section.

At the bottom of the page is says in a box "When you add ballast, DO NOT (sic - caps are in the manual) exceed the maximum tire carrying capacity shown on the sidewall. This is an interesting statement. John Deere clearly thinks this is an important safety issue. OK, thanks for the warning. But they do not, anyplace, provide the data so a guy/gal can sit down with a pencil and paper, add up the weight, compare it to the number on the tire - even if only John Deere furnished stuff is used - and get even a rough estimate of whether or not we are complying with this safety warning. The missing data:

Weight of loader is not in the manuals for the tractor or loader. One can go to the marketing brochure and find the "shipping weight" with includes the crate and presumably the standard bucket - which is 645 lbs for the 70 loader.

Weight of rear wheel weights is not in any of the manuals I have - although if you have a parts manual (I don't) that might say what they weigh.

Bare tractor axle weights are not in any of the manuals - or at least I couldn't find it. The 770 manual says the weight is 2,150 lbs.

Sigh ...

At the moment my estimate for the total weight of the 770 tractor, 70 loader (with bucket off the ground), fluid in the tires, and my home made fully loaded counterweight is 4,045 lbs. I have no way to estimate the individual axle loadings though. At this weight it sure has some significant ability to pull and push. I think it is comparable in weight with my 2600 Ford.

In the wheel weight section of the loader manual it says to use 3 on each side with the 12.4 x 16 R1 tires I have, but not how much they weigh.

In the tractor manual on page 39 it says "Do not overload tires. Add no more weight than indicated in chart." Then the chart has a number that is Maximum Load Per Wheel (not the amount that can be added per wheel), and no place in the manual does it say what the normal tractor operating load on the wheel is, so unless one goes to a scales, calculating the safe ballast addition with out overloading the wheel is impossible given the data in the manual! Sigh ...

While the load carrying capacity of the tires (1,590 lbs) is most probably not adequate for 3 rear wheel weights (weight not specified in either manual that I could find - but if my memory is right it is around 80 lbs per weight), fluid (200 lbs per tire), and the John Deere 712 lb ballast box (356 lbs per tire plus weight transfer from front end, which is easy to calculate, because it is out behind the axle) - the data to figure that out is not included in any of the manuals. I'm not surprised you are confused. The manuals are both incomplete and confusing. If I ever get access to a scales, I'm planning to do a lot of weighing of the tractor in different configurations. Alas, since the loader frame is already installed, and fluid is already in the tires, I won't have good "bare tractor" axle loads.

So one has to pick and choose the ballast to match the job with out any real confidence that no safety limits are being violated - sort of in the dark - unless a scales is handy. I have the tires full of fluid - not easy to change.

The weight strategy depends on the tasks, and equipment, and what is easy to change.

The factory rear wheel weights are not easy to change either (although one could probably fabricate a weight handler attachment for a floor jack that would greatly simplify the task), but probably easier than fluid. Easiest to re-configure rear wheel weight system I've seen is the home made one on the WEB page with the barbell adaptor - at least for the smaller compact tractors like my 770 - 25 lb weight plates would be to small to be useful on my 2600 Ford.

When I'm using the brush cutter, I have 200 lbs of suitcase (lunch bucket?) weight on the front, the mower on the back, and of course the fluid in the tires. When the loader is mounted (the suitcase weights have to come off the front to mount the loader), and I'm doing general stuff around the place, including moving trailers, etc. I have my home made counter weight installed but don't have the 200 lbs of front end suit case weights on it. If I'm doing a lot of dirt moving with the bucket, I add the suitcase weights to the bracket made for that purpose on the home made counter weight.

The counter weight with the suitcase weights on it is right at the limit of what the 3pt can lift. If the loader isn't on the tractor when that weight is on the back, the tractor front end, like yours, is very light and will dance lightly leaving the ground a bit in long gentle arcs given any provocation at all. I take off the counter weight, then the loader. In put on the loader, then the counterweight.

If I used the tractor with a loader and box scraper I'd have the recommended 3 rear wheel weights on each side (assuming that didn't violate the max loading on the tire) and just leave them there when using the brush cutter (but still add the front end weights when using the brush cutter).

I don't use the tractor for finish mowing - but if I did, the rear counterweight which is easily removed for finish mowing would be the way to go. The turf tires are not compatible with the rear wheel weights - at least the manual says use zero of them so I "think", but don't "know" for sure, they physically don't fit on the turf tire rim.

Its clearly a good idea to have a weighting strategy that lets the tractor be easily ballasted (ballast easily reconfigurable) to match the variety of attachments used and tasks to be attempted. Ballast that isn't easy to use will at some critical time, sooner or later, not be on the tractor when it is needed.

Fitch

counter weight
John Deere Tractors
Replies 55 Post by Fitch

I had the same problem with my 2600 Ford about 8 years ago right after I bought it. It turned out to be a clogged in tank strainer like Peters describes. The strainer is mounted on the fuel shut off valve that is inserted into the bottom of the tank. Removing the valve also removes the strainer from the tank. <br>
<br>
I found it by loosening the fuel line where it entered the fuel filter - only drops came out. Blew back into the fuel line with the tank filler cap removed (Diesel tastes awful but there was no compressed air available where the problem happened) and cleared it - heard bubbles in the tank.<br>
<br>
Of course it clogged up again a few hours later. I finally ran it till the fuel was really low (by repeatedly blowing it clear, unscrewed the valve from the bottom of the tank which left a sizable opening, and cleaned out the tank using compressed air through a short piece of copper tube to blow the crunk out the bottom. It had an amazing collection of crunk in it. Cleaned strainer one more time, reinstalled valve, changed fuel filter, been fine ever since.<br>
<br>
Fitch

Fuel flow problem in JD755
John Deere Tractors
Replies 11 Post by Fitch

Todd, I think you were doing everything right. I don't think there is a problem based on what you wrote. You are making the work like it was designed to and exercising due diligence about the temperature. Good on ya.

Its early Sunday AM, the coffee is good (fresh ground Kona - a weekend treat), I feel like rambling on a bit - so the rest is optional.

I run my JD 770 mowing brush on the horse trail with the 513 brush cutter mower here in the high desert when it is pretty hot (105F or more) some times. That's to hot for me to do a lot of physical labor, so the tractor gets to work while I sit in the seat. I have seen what you describe while doing this. Didn't cause me any concern. The farm tractors of my youth would do the same thing.

The crank case gasses have to go some place and the breather tube is designed for that. As long as it isn't using oil (or any other fluids in unusual quantities) and the temperature is kept in the normal range it shouldn't be a problem. Its good to do a complete fluid level check (all the dipsticks and coolant over flow tank) before starting the tractor into a hard work session - that way you have a definite bench mark should something unusual happen. You probably do this.

Keeping the radiator screen clean is a real good idea. I love that removable screen - the tractors I drove growing up(CAT D2, JD 60, Farmall F-20 with steel wheels, Farmall M, Farmall 400, International 340) Didn't have a nice easy to clean screen like that.

The Kubota L4200 (I think it was a 4200 - it was supposed to be about 40 hp?) and dual spindle Brush Hog I drove to mow about 10 acres of knee high mature field grass and brush in PA ~two weeks ago had a screen - it came out sideways and was a tiny bit more difficult to re-install but still easy compared to a radiator (although the engine side covers were hot enough to be uncomfortable to remove with bare hands). The grill on the Kubota also came off easily - a feature. I ended up removing and cleaning them about every hour. It was also my first experience on an HST drive tractor - very nice for mowing with a Brush Hog - I think it would be wonderful for loader work. I'd prefer gears for tillage, but that's probably just my experience which up to now has all been with gear drive tractors - some with hand clutches.

The screen can clog up amazingly fast when mowing in deep field grass and brush - its a piece of cake to clean compared to the radiator. Mowing the horse trails here in So. Cal. I watch the temperature gage - when it moves up noticeably (it usually runs about 1/4" into the cold end of the green band on the gage) I stop, let the engine idle, pull the radiator screen, brush it off, remove the grill (grills didn't remove easily on any of our tractors years ago either) and brush that off, then go back to it. Sounds like what you were doing.

The good news is that by the time one is done with such a mowing day, the volatile contaminants in the crank case and hydraulic fluid should be all gone!

Fitch

Crankcase ventilation on 950
John Deere Tractors
Replies 9 Post by Fitch

TomG summarized his and Art White's theories as follows:

"My version of the theory is that a worn engine may have appreciable blow-by that increases the volume of gases exiting the breather. These gases carry some oil mist along with it. The oil mist collects in the breather and drips out. My theory probably is more theoretical than Art's but both are good starting places for sorting the problem out."

I think they are the same theory - and agree its consistent with the data and a good place to start.

The data we have from Morgan is:

Black oily fluid is leaving the breather tube in quantity - this stops when the crank case gets to about a quart low. The fact that the crankcase level goes down is significant when combined with the following information:

The water level is not going down. The fluid coming out doesn't smell like diesel fuel. So far at least we don't know if the tranny level is down or not, but the fact that the crankcase level decreases strongly suggests that nothing is entering it from other fluid volumes, or it would stay full or go over full.

This is not normal behavior for the engine. Even my 1976 tractor that has never been rebuilt doesn't blow oil out the breather tube. This condition isn't going to fix itself. Dripping oil all over the place and running a quart low on oil aren't good ideas - so it needs to be fixed.

If it was my tractor, I'd do a compression check. Its not very expensive to have it done. It can be done at home by a decent backyard mechanic with a factory service manual and a suitable gage (tool acquisition opportunity!), and it will tell the story on the condition of the rings and cylinder walls in a very short time. I'd do both dry and wet tests. I don't know what pressures are normal for this engine (depends on compression ratio, cranking speed, condition of rings and valves, etc.), or what the imbalance tolerance is. You need the FSM for that.

One last comment: I've read in TDR (Turbo Diesel Register) that Diesel engine oil is usually (but not always) black and messy because of microscopic soot particles getting into it.

Fitch

Oil leaking out the overflow tube
Kubota Tractors
Replies 31 Post by Fitch

Compression check highly recommended. It is imperative to know what is causing the excess oil consumption before trying to decide on remedial action. A compression check will yield very useful data in this situation. If you don't have the FSM for the tractor, have the dealer or another competent Diesel mechanic do it.

Reading the initial post I am confused about the status of the Rislone. I'm assuming it was poured into the crank case, the engine idled for a few minutes and then it was drained out with the oil. But I have to ask, is it still in the engine? If so, I'd suggest immediately draining the oil and changing the filter.

Given the combustion pressures in a Diesel, and the resulting pounding that the wrist pin and rod bearings take, using an oil thinner like Rislone that reduces the ability of the oil to withstand high pressures with out allowing metal to metal contact in bearings is not a good idea. If the oil has been changed regularly, there shouldn't be a need to clean the engine at only 775 hours.

Diesel engine oil is generally pretty black and messy looking compared to gas engine oil.

Fitch

1070 burning too much oil
John Deere Tractors
Replies 16 Post by Fitch

I have a 10hp chipper that gets used several times a year. There is a non-trivial dump fee here, it is by the trip, not weight. I have a 3 cu-yd dumpster here for used hay and general trash disposal. I can get whole small trees, and a lot of trimmings into the dumpster along with the weeks supply of used hay if I use the chipper. If I don't, it takes two or three weeks to feed the bursh pile into it. I don't like the fire hazard that goes with having a pile of dry brush around during the So. Cal. fire season - so I bought the chipper.

It does a good job when it runs. However, every time the engine on it won't start, which happens every couple of years, I wish it would mount on the tractor and be driven by the pto. The tractor always runs. Unfortunately, the chipper I have was designed to run at around 3,600 rpm so replacing the chipper engine with a support bearing and a tumbler shaft won't work.

That PATU DC-40 is a nice looking unit. That chipper could be aimed right into the dumpster. It would be a very nice setup with that nice discharge chute. I've never seen one used - but if I do, and its in good condition, I just might have it follow me home.

Fitch

Wood Chipper for 29D
New Holland Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Fitch

Domenico wrote:

"Also, should I use JD oil, hydraulic fluid, filters, et...? My dealer is about an houre away. If I should use JD brand fluids and filters, does it keep so I can buy extra and just keep it on hand?"

Fitch replies:

The dealer I bought my 770 from, South Kern Machinery in Bakersfield (an excellent dealer), is quite some distance away, all of an hour or more. I found a local John Deere construction machinery (road graders, bulldozers, excavators, - yellow JD machinery) dealer. They can get all the filters for me and are local. I usually buy three oil filters, one fuel filter, and an air filter. I keep them on the shelf. They have a looooooooong shelf life. Right now I have an air filter, fuel filter, and two oil filters on the shelf should I need them.

I did add the filter minder gage to my 770 so I won't be changing the air filter unless it really needs it.

You won't go wrong using the oil and other fluids from the JD dealer, but you may find equally good material at the local auto parts store.

For engine oil I use DELO 400 15W40 - I buy it three cases at a time at COSTCO - three cases lasts me about a year. I use it in both my tractors, the excavator, and the Cummins in the Dodge. It meets all the required specifications for all of them - but your 4310 may be different so check first.

I buy the hydraulic oil at the local auto parts store - the owner knows there are a lot of tractors here, so he always has 15 or 20 five gallon containers in stock. I bought 5 gallons 4 years ago and have nearly all of it left. If you keep the dirt out of it, it will last a long time on the shelf.

I use normal chassis lube grease on all the tractors and the excavator. The local cheap house brand at the auto parts store. Nothing special. However, I do, religiously, always, every time, wipe the grease fittings clean with a rag or paper towel before I put the grease gun on them. On the excavator, because they are all protected (surrounded by a heavy steel ring), I blast them clean with compressed air before applying the grease gun. If one puts the grease gun on a dirty grease fitting, the result is a little bit of dirt washed into the bearing each time it is greased. Dirt is the enemy in bearings.

Fitch

JD 4000 Ten Series-thread for all comments on new line
John Deere Tractors
Replies 49 Post by Fitch

Reading about the 4x00 series problems makes me want to say how pleased I am with my JD770. It has about 300 hours on it now - not a lot to be sure but enough to have seen most of the teething problems. It was a leased machine (had 143 hours on it - vinyard service - came with new warranty but very nice price reduction) that I bought from South Kern Machinery just off the 58 in Bakersfield. Tractor was like new except for paint wear where the operators feet were.

The only problems I've had were:

1) a wimpy rubber hose that was deteriorating and breaking on the differential housing vent behind the seat. I replaced it with a piece of fuel line from the local autoparts store held in place with a screw type clamp. Problem solved.

2) Two weeks ago, the OEM battery seemed to be getting weaker and weaker - if I used the glow plugs the tractor would hardly crank - it still always started, just cranking slower than usual. Battery water right where it is supposed to be, only distilled water used. I like to replace batteries before they die, then I can do it when it is convenient for me. The manual says it needs a 447 CCA battery. Charging current and voltage were normal - measured with a FLUKE 36. Tested the battery with my Midtronics 450 (nice battery tester by the way - bought it used on EBAY) - the CCA measured at 209 - looked like the problem to me. Took the battery to the local autoparts store - they tested it and also found it low on current capability even though it was fully charged and the voltage was just fine (except when cranking of course). I replaced it with an 800 CCA Interstate (same case size and only a few $ more than the right size). Problem solved. Bring on the winter, it will start better than new!

3) The seat seems to want to come apart - seat material comes out from under the seam holding tape (?) around the edge right at the top center of the back of the seat. That is probably due to me putting my hand there when I get on board. I used some fast drying epoxy to fix it a couple of years ago - but it started to come apart again in a couple of years. More epoxy called for I guess. Anyone have a good fix for this problem? I can live with it, but a good fix would sure be welcome.

These all seem pretty trivial compared to what I'm reading about - the 770 forum is quite short - not a lot of problems reported.

I really like the joy stick controls, excellent visibility, responsive hydraulics, convenience of small size in cramped quarters (like manuvering to scoop out pea holes and add dirt in a 12 x 24 horse stall) and the amazing pulling power for its size that the 4WD gives it. I think it will almost pull right with my 2600 Ford other than having less hp.

Based on my experiences with one, I'd have to say that anyone looking for a used compact tractor in the 20hp size range could do a lot worse than a reasonably cared for JD770.

Fitch

Very happy with my JD770
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Fitch

Been there, done that. Was welding some brackets onto the corall fencing last weekend. All of a sudden I noticed I was not sweating and feeling weak. Quit for about three hours, water and gatoraid, finally went in the pool - that helped a lot.

Live in the So Cal high desert. As I get older (60 now) I find I have to get up really early and have the heavy physical part of what is to be done finished by no later than noon. I drink lots of water, some times mixed half and half with Gatoraid, wear a hat, and pay attention to how I feel. When its really hot I wear a hat soaked with water. Welding, even with just cape sleeves and heavy gloves - I got really hot.

I've also checked the water in all the equipment cooling systems and batteries. Batteries can lose water at an alarming rate when it is hot and really dry.

Fitch

Watch the heat
Website Operations Howto
Replies 14 Post by Fitch