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It is not the chicklet. DO NOT replace the fuel control solenoid.

It is a design flaw in the solenoid. Here is what happens:
You get your tractor all warmed up, and the engine oil fills the solenoid. You shut the engine down and when you try to restart it...the oil inside the solenoid prevents the rod from retracting properly. So you get out your 10mm wrench and snatch the solenoid, manually pus it in, and viola..you are in business.

If that is your problem, I have a solution for you. There are 3 wires feeding the solenoid. The black on is the ground, the red one is the "hold in" and the white one is the "pull in". Skin the white one enough that you can connect a piece of insulated wire to it. I used red wire because that's what I had handy. When the tractor is hot and it is playing the "I aint gonna start game" take your jumper wire and briefly GROUND it out. Don't worry it won't shock you or anything...but for whatever reason, grounding the wire seems to make the "pull in" circuit pull in again. I dunno why because it seemed to me that you would have to touch it to the positive battery terminal to accomplish this. I tried that and it did not work, but grounding it does. I promise!

John Deere 4300 will not start HELP
John Deere Tractors
Replies 18 Post by CapnDean

I might find a good deal at a local dealer?

Even my dealer's parts man had to laugh:

The wheel assembly (#10 in the parts photo) is NLA.
But suprisingly one may purchase the rim for $241, the inner wheel that the rim attaches to is another $220 and then all of the bolts and don't forget the valve stem as it is sold seperately too.....

YUP...about $600 something or odd bucks per wheel. That doesn't include the tire.

I'm sorry but a 10" X 24" steel wheel should not be priced that way in earnest.

Ergo I seek somebody who wants my rear turf tires and wheels.

JD 4300 Hydro NEEDS R1 Wheels
John Deere Tractors
Replies 3 Post by CapnDean