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Art White wrote:"You will not get the same service as a customer that spent the money to invest in the dealership."

Does this mean the quality of repair, or does it mean you may not get scheduled as quickly, have parts shipped priority, and have pickup/return as someone who bought the tractor from the dealership?

I believe it reasonable to expect if you did not buy a tractor from your local dealer but need repair work, that you have to understand his purchasing customers come first and you shouldn't expect perks like immediate scheduling, pick-up and delivery and/or priority ordering of non stock parts.

If it means quality of repair, then I have a BIG problem with that. Under no circumstances should the quality of the repair be in question.

Oneace...I understand your position and value your knowledge and input but if NH monitors this site, they should chime in here and tell us exactly what coroprate believes dealers should or shouldn't do for NH customers regardless of whether the dealer sold the unit. Under no circumstances should your job be in jeopardy for standing up on their behalf.

Don't get me wrong...I am NOT an advocate of buying off the internet or in some other state just to save some bucks. I have repeatedly posted here that folks need to forge a relationship with their local dealer before buying so they are comfortable with service after the sale. Working in the Parts & Service division of Ford Motor Company for 30 years taught me plenty about that.

What I would have a problem with is if I happened to move, or my selling dealer went out of business or any other reason I would need NH service from another dealer, that they would give me sub-quality repairs because I did not purchase it from them.

If it turns out a dealership can't make money on warranty repairs because something takes 10 hours to diagnose and NH only pays 2, then I think the dealer ought to be looking at how well trained his techs are and determine if it's a lack of factory training and knowledge or just poor work ethics that keeps him from making money.

Tim

new holland warranty question - prospective buyer
New Holland Tractors
Replies 39 Post by 5picker

Thanks oneace,
Nice cab!
Now if I could just find 3K on a money tree somewhere.....
Tim

want to stir some interest
New Holland Tractors
Replies 8 Post by 5picker

rwinter999,
Ditto on everything said above. You can ask 10 different people about their preference and you will get 10 different answers. They are all good machines and it is YOUR preference that counts.

Please be sure you test drive them all and spend some time at the dealership looking around. Check out the service department and the parts department. It is the relationship you forge with a dealer that is going to make you love or hate your machine, whatever color, in the long run.

My $.02
Tim

NH versus Deere and Kubota
New Holland Tractors
Replies 14 Post by 5picker

broken,
Does it do it all the time now, even with the bucket empty? Hot, cold make any difference?

I doubt the relief valve is making noise if it does it empty as that usually only kicks in under load.

Maybe a small rock lodged in around one of the pivot points somewhere?

Keep us posted,
Tim

Noise question
New Holland Tractors
Replies 4 Post by 5picker

jubilee,
I have a Woods RD84 RFM and I sing the same high praises as jonathan on this piece of equipment. My dealer had Land Pride sitting on the lot but I couldn't get past the rust and already flat tires to even begin to think of buying one of those. Besides, I already have a Woods rotary cutter and knew what a fine piece of equipment that has been.

I've not experienced the problem some suggested with the tractor tires mashing down the grass and the mower not being able to lift it for cut. It REALLY does a nice job.

I would also suggest the front scalper roller and solid tires. While I've not seen the scalper roller hit very often, I know it's there just in case. Even at 84" the deck follows the contour of the terrain very nicely.

My dealer suggested the solid tires and I'm glad I listened. They don't give the mower dack quite the ride as a pneumatic tire but after watching how those tires have to spin around at times when turning, I believe he was right when he said you MAY roll one off. My largest mowing job (about 10 acres) is mostly in a large field I'm grooming to become yard area and it is still pretty rough The solids have not given me a problem.

If you do go with pneumatics, be sure they have tubes or put tubes in them. You can then get away from having to fill them with so much air to keep them from rolling off that you end up with what is basically a solid tire anyway.

Tim

Should I buy a finishing mower
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 37 Post by 5picker

beagle,<br>
Sounds like you are doing exactly what I had in mind. I too noted that peak torque was in the 2000-2200 range for my engine and figured I would be doing no harm but wanted the thoughts of some others. I've got about 300 hrs. on it so I'm not doing this because I need to worry about plugging along all day at high RPM's. I also realize the mower won't be spinning at optimum grass cuttung speed but again, it's not a situation where I need it to be, nor do I feel it will harm anything on the mower side if it is run slower.<br>
<br>
I think sometimes we tend to overlook how other related equipment performs -vs- our PTO driven equipment. I know all my push mowers, edgers and garden tractors have throttle controls on them that slow the driven componenets at the same time as engine speed decreases and they work perfectly fine slower in certain situations.<br>
<br>
I just didn't want to get into the mindset that if I didn't "wind 'er up to PTO speed" I was going to have a PTO clutch burn up or something.<br>
<br>
Tim

HST Question
New Holland Tractors
Replies 29 Post by 5picker

Michael,
Sorry to hear of the problems with your blue machine but please don't believe that all blue tractors have these same problems. I think AV8R & Kubotaguy are right, it's not a problem with NH but rather the dealer you bought from. While I would think NH would want to know of a lousy dealer in their network, I also doubt they will do much about it.

I know my dealer well enough that he would have NEVER tried to pass that stuff off on me, nor would he send someone out to deliver a machine that didn't know how to operate it and it's attachments. It was up to you right then and there to put a stop to the whole mess.

I've also found in the 25+ years of being in the service & parts division of one of the BIG 3 automakers that big corporations WANT their dealers to rectify the problems on a local level if at all possible.

If you had all these problems from the get-go, you should have been in the dealer's office the very next morning with two cups of coffee (one for you and one for him) trying to figure out a solution to your list of complaints. Griping LOUDLY after the fact will get you no where.

If we learn anything from this it should be that dealer relationship is as important (if not more) as the deal you get. Unless you are willing to accept responsibility for all your own repairs, you better find someone who will work with you at the local dealer level.

When buying, spend some time at the dealer's service department and watch what goes on there for a couple of hours. You'll soon know if it is someone/someplace you want to trust working on something you just spent thousands of dollars on.

My $.02
Tim

My experiance with New Holland
New Holland Tractors
Replies 46 Post by 5picker

cobra,
I agree with Art...you are going to have to "belly up to the bar" and see what your dealer will do. I suspect if the proper approach is taken he will help.

I don't know about your machine but my TC33D uses a separate reservoir and pump for the steering so checking the operation of the FEL and 3PH is irrelevant.
Tim

Please help Steering Probelm
New Holland Tractors
Replies 7 Post by 5picker

Chipaz,<br>
I agree with Chief that there should have been no cost involved to you. Just for the sake of knowing...how old is your machine? That really shouldn't matter as there still should have been no cost for a repair to a problem NH knows exists.<br>
<br>
I'm also wondering if this "fix" is something that the dealers are obtaining the parts locally for or if this "kit" is something sent out by NH? Didn't oneace reply somewhere that the circuit breakers he has installed were of LESSER amperage than the original 10 amp fuse? Why then did you get one of a different value? Not that it will hurt anything being that it is the same value as the original fuse but my point is, if NH is allowing their dealers to purchase whatever parts are necessary to complete this update, then how do they know that the proper components were or even are, being installed? Doesn't sound like very good owner/dealer/corporate communication to me!<br>
<br>
I'm con-fused! (pun intended)<br>
Tim<br>
<br>

TC 33D Blowing Fuses
New Holland Tractors
Replies 47 Post by 5picker

Tom,
I have a TC33D with a 7308 FEL. The pressure at the FEL ports will relief (inside the joystick control) at about 1850 psi. Depending on what size hyd. cyl. is used on the log splitter, these ports may/may not have enough psi to do what you want.

I believe you would want to be more concerned about force (tonage of splitting power) than you would be about speed. A 4-1/2" cyl. connected to the loader ports will give you about 16 tons (+ or -) of splitting force at 1850 psi and I've seen some gas driven splitters fall in this range.

If you had rear remote hydraulics that were controlled by the main system relief at about 2200 psi it would give you about 20 tons of force and I've seen better/larger gas driven splitters in this range.

You would not want to 'bungie" the joystick in one direction unless you wanted the cyl. to extend (or retract) and stay there "dead heading." Depending on which ports you use (and I would suggest the bucket cyl. circuit instead of the lift circuit since the lift circuit has a "float" on the retract side) you would just move the joystick handle one way to extend the cyl. and split the log and move it the other direction to retract the cyl and reload. Not quite as handy as some self reversing set ups but useable none the less.

The biggest downside to using the joystick as your control for a 3PH mounted splitter would be having to load the logsplitter at the rear of your tractor and then having to go to the side of the tractor to operate the joystick. Of course you could always set the splitter on the ground beside the tractor and use it there without much hassle.
Tim

NH 1925
New Holland Tractors
Replies 9 Post by 5picker

Well kyvette...

Everything that was said before still applies. You MAY have a sticking or binding pedal or a return spring that is out of adjustment or some other mechanical snafu.

Jerry summed up the pedal sticks because of "hydraulic shock load" on the system pretty well and I have found under certain load conditions mine will do exactly the same and I have learned to deal with it just like Jerry, by depressing the pedal back when it happens.

I believe Art mentioned the lighter, higher quality hydraulic fluid and that may help you too if you are experiencing a load condition.

I believe us folks with HST's seem to have gotten into the habit of just lifting our foot off the pedal a bit when we want to slow down or stop and while under "ideal" conditions, that usually works...but sometimes it doesn't! As long as the pedal isn't bound up or there is a mechanical problem, I'm not too sure I find this "sticking pedal" scenario a bad thing. At least I know my HST is coupled up and providing plenty of power to the drivetrain.

My $.02
Tim

HST pedal
New Holland Tractors
Replies 24 Post by 5picker

Dutch,
Everything is pretty much straight forward and if you are mechanically inclined at all, you should have no problem. I have a TC33D HST and have changed the filters and oils regularly myself since new. (300 hrs now) I find I loose about a gallon of hydraulic fluid when servicing those filters. Your manual will tell you the capacity of your engine oil.
Tim

50 hour intial maintenance on hydro TC30
New Holland Tractors
Replies 2 Post by 5picker

I'm not sure I know what a "touch control" is either but if you are referring to the lever on the fender used to control the 3PH and it is stiff to move, you MAY have some kind of problem but I suspect it is normal as well. Check for bent or binding lever/linkage or a gaulded pivot point.

Typically the fender mounted 3PH lever control is used to raise or lower whatever is attached to the 3PH. There is not much "control" done here. It's usually either up or down or somewhere in between. There is a control knob under the seat that will adjust the drop speed of an attachment but that's about it.

I have tried several times to "follow the terrain" using the fender mounted 3PH lever while using my brush hog, at a higher than wheel contact setting, with poor results. I don't believe that is what this lever is intended for.

Perhaps a hydraulic top link would give you better control over what you are trying to accomplish.

Tim

TC 33 rear hyd contreol
New Holland Tractors
Replies 5 Post by 5picker

Optimum engine/PTO speed on my TC33D relates to about 2600 rpm. At that speed I am at about 3/4 throttle with a little room to give her more if load demands. These engines are designed to run all day at that rpm to be comfortably in the best torque range that the engine delivers. Don't be afraid to use it at that rpm for everything, even if the PTO is not engaged.
Tim

Power issue with TC33D
New Holland Tractors
Replies 21 Post by 5picker

Frank summed it up pretty well. Dealer relationship should be as much a factor in your purchase decision as any consideration you are giving to the tractor and it's options.

All brands have service departments so that tells you they all break in some regard. Find a dealer you can forge a good relationship with. Not only for service work but any additional items you may want to purchase in the future.

Go to each dealer and "test drive" each unit you are considering. I've said it before...it's during this process that you will find out what the machine and the dealer are able to accomodate.

My $.02
Tim

buying new tractor
New Holland Tractors
Replies 7 Post by 5picker

Frank & Tom both mention good ideas. I too would try switching the lines and/or pulling the cover off the control valve to see if a branch or something is stuck in there. I have also seen a heavy stick "pop" a quick connector loose. The line usually does not come all the way out of the connector so at first glance it appears to be fully connected when in reality it is not.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

Loader hydraulic problem
New Holland Tractors
Replies 6 Post by 5picker

A wiring or connector problem is almost always the most common failure in an electric brake setup. As mentioned, especially check the ground circut but look at every connection and splice. "Scotchlock" connectors are commonly used where the trailer wiring attaches to the axle wiring and are notoriously known to fail.

Checking with a test lamp may sometimes fool you into thinking a connector is OK too. Sometimes a corroded connector will carry voltage but not enough current to make the brakes work properly.

You may want to eliminate any suspect connections by replacing them with solder/shrink/seal type connectors.
Tim

Intermittent Eletric Brake Failure
Pickup Trucks and Trailers
Replies 8 Post by 5picker

mascari,
Welcome! As everyone said...there are no dumb questions! Most brush hogs that have "stump jumpers" (a large circular disc underneath that the blades attach to) are designed to let the blades swing at their attaching point. This is almost always both blades. I never seen one that only one blade could swing. That's not to say there isnt one out there!

Sometimes after setting a while or over the winter, the blade can gald up on it's pivot point. Sometimes a squirt of penetrating oil or the like will loosen it up and sometimes you have to remove the attachment bolt and clean it up a bit. A frozen blade on it's pivot point will usually cause some vibration as well unless it happens to be stuck at exactly the right spot.

You mentioned hitting a few things that "made a lot of noise" so you checked it when you were finished. I've found that waiting until you are finished after hitting things that make strange/loud noises can be disasterous. Sometimes it's better to stop and check for damage before proceeding. Of course, disengage the machine and use extreme safety!

My $.02
Tim

Really dumb question - new member
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 6 Post by 5picker

I've got a TC33D w/7308 FEL along with several other "goodies" and it works well for me here in Western PA on 32 acres. Just remember whatever machine you buy will have it's limitations. As long as you have enough machine to start with and realize what those limitations are, you'll do just fine.
Tim

Taking the plunge
New Holland Tractors
Replies 10 Post by 5picker

Opinions on MMM-vs-RFM are plentiful and every one is different. My RFM works well for me and it's EZ on, EZ off and doesn't get in the way of the loader. 'Nuff said.
Just my $.02
Tim

After 6 months of looking
Kubota Tractors
Replies 11 Post by 5picker