Go BottomB6200 tranny
 | johnfundy
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 71 NE Ohio 
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2003-03-22 51644
Hello Tractor Board.
Just purchased my first kubota. It's a B6200 , 4WD, with attachments. The tractor is very clean and well kept. One thing I notice is I get a very slight "gear chatter" when I shift into reverse. All forward speed are chatter free. This might be normal but I'd like some opinions.
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 | WillieH
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 543 New England 
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2003-03-22 51648
Congratulations on your purchase John.
Question: I draw a conclusion that your comment depicts a gear shift B6200. Is this accurate or is it an HSD.
The operation of both systems are different enough to lead the troubleshooting into two different directions. Let us know.
Jumping ahead on another area, are you sure that this "chatter" is definitely coming from the tranny ? Reason being, the hubs have a tendency, especially on the vintage tractor of your purchase, to loosen slightly on the axle. As the hub turns, the slop on the axle allows an extremely noticable grinding or crunching or chatter noise. This is eventually apparent on all the units as the locking bolt,washer, and nut securing the hexagonal clamping flange of the hub, loosens, causing what sometimes sounds like a bearing destroying itself. Lift up the rear end and remove the rears. Make sure that these locking bolts/ lock washer & nut assemblies are driven tight. Because of the rotation of drive, the most prevalent side of noise & looseness will be the right side.
You'd be surprised what a loose hub assmbly can cause you to believe, not to mention, if not caught in time will cause premature wear inside the hub,now about $85 from orange, or worse yet the wearing of the axle itself. Simple fix, when you realize a little loosening, tighten them up.
Willie H. ....
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| Morgan Wright
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2003-03-23 51724
I have a B6200 also with manual tranny, and the same thing happens to me when I try to shift quickly into reverse or first. It grinds when you try to shift. There are ways to slip it into gear smoothly without grinding the gear box. After you drive it for a while you will learn how to shift with "mesh" instead of "mash."
1. Lower the engine speed before shifting. If you have the hand lever set at a constant high RMP, lower that to idle before shifting into reverse. It will mesh, not mash.
2. If you don't want to lower engine speed first, there is another way. Before you try to put it all the way into gear, just sort to bounce the lever a couple of times in that direction, and then when the gears stop spinning it will slip right into gear. I think when you have it running in 3rd or 2nd gear it gerts something spinning. Maybe a gear or something. You have to get that heavy thing to stop spinning before you can get the shift pinion to mesh instead of mash with the gear.
3. If you are just sitting with the clutch pedal up and you have had it in neutral at high RPM, you have to push the clutch pedal in and wait about 4 or 5 seconds before trying to shift. There is some sort of gear inside that has to stop spinning before you can shift.
If you are in a hurry and don't want to wait 5 seconds, what I do is push the cluth pedal in and sort of lightly apply pressure on the shift lever, and give it just enough pressure to stop the gear without really mashing. You hear the teeth hitting but not enough to hurt the gear. After a second or two you slow the gear down and can mesh instead of mash.
What I do now, to avoid hitting gear teeth at all, I push the clutch down, drop the engine speed to idle, slip in into gear, and bang the engine speed up again, all in one quick motion. Gear teeth never mash at low engine RPM. ....
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