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Oil Sender Leak

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dmccue
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 7 Melbourne, Florida
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2002-09-13          42348

I have a Yanmar YM2000 tractor. After engine warmup I notice an oil leak which appears to be coming from the oil sender switch.

Is the remedy to replace the switch? If so, is there a special procedure to do this? Is a replacement switch available?


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Oil Sender Leak

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-09-14          42366

You might get some specific information from Dave who is new to the Board. In general, I'd try to determine if the leak is coming from the switch itself or around the fitting.

I'd probably just replace it if a new switch is available and not too pricey. If the leak is from the switch case, some people do use products such as JB Weld to repair cracks and splits in metal parts. If it's around the fitting, I'd might try to tighten it gently. It's probably a tapered pipe thread and a half more turn or so may stop the leak. Gentle is the key however, because old pipe thread does seize or can be turned in so far they jam something and break. The use of Teflon tape to seal leaks is preferable to force. Teflon tape is usually used only on the upper third of the male threads or else tape can be exposed inside of lines, break off and cause problems. If it’s not a tapered pipe thread, then there probably is a gasket, which also could cause a leak.

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Peters
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 3034 Northern AL
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2002-09-14          42375

As Tom outlined there are two common areas for the senders to cause leaks, the threads or the metal to insulator seal. If it is the treads it is easy to make in the seal or break it off if you do not tighten it with care.
The sender should be available, you may be able to get a green one from Deere as they are likely the same. ....

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Danny Parker
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2002-09-15          42410

The Yanmar oil sending for your tractor is $ 5.65.
Danny ....

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DavesTractor
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 148 Red Bluff, California
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2002-09-15          42413

I don't often deal with the two-cylinder Yanmars, but I suspect the oil switch is similar. On the 3-cylinders, the switch turns the dash light on at pressures under about 14psi. Also remember that the threads are very close to 1/8" pipe...but they are not. They are British Pipe (someone can expand on this as I only know that they are darn close but different). Best to get the Yanmar switch as it is cheap and correct. If you are in a hurry and want to pick something up at the local parts store, Standard Brand PS-171 works perfectly. ....

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Peters
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 3034 Northern AL
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2002-09-15          42441

NPT, is common now, but Wittworth (British Pipe) was common. A lot of auto brake tube is still Whittworth thread but now metric or SAE wrench sizes.
Was a little confused the other day as I went to replace a greese nipple on my old MF. The 1/4" and 5/16" did not fit but the metric 7 did. Suspect odd WW, but a new one fit. ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-09-16          42459

I suppose it's of academic interest only since Whitworth isn't going to work with NPT thread and a replacement part is inexpensive at any rate. NPTF for fine is another standard.

I used to have charts for Whitworth bolt threads from my motorcycle wrenching days so I can't now say if the pitches are the same. Even if they were it still won't work beause the threads have different shapes. Whitworth thread tops are cut around a radius point rather than triangular or truncated triangular. A Brit machinist told me Whitworth has greater efficiency than other thread forms (efficiency defined as percent of thread shoulders in contact). It is a very good thread. Good holding power, seldon strips or cross-threads etc., but it's also more expensive to produce so I guess that's why it's not so common now.

I know that the hydraulic ports on my Ford are NPT or NPTF but the steel lines are metric. It makes buying fittings and adapters almost impossible except at NH prices.

I had a similar experience to Peters. I bent a bolt on a table saw and had to cut off the head with a bolt cutter. I knew I put the saw together with metric wrenches but in fishing around in my nuts n bolts box I found a bolt that screwed in just fine. It looked like a standard 1/4" bolt, and wrenches in inches fit it. I think I've got it figured out that manufacturers are matching standard thread and shafts in inches with metric heads. I have no idea why, but it makes working on things interesting. Maybe not as interesting as some latter day Brit Bikes that had Whitworth, U.S. and Japanese Metric all on the same bike. The toolbox you needed outweighed the bike. Maybe I over-state.
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