Go BottomWheel widths and wheel ballast on 4200
 | Gary in Indiana
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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2002-01-06 34332
I just bought a 4200 MFWD out of an estate and know nothing about it. I'm doing scheduled maintenance things right now and just learning from playing with it. I've read a lot here about wheel width settings and wanted some advice on that as well as putting calcium chloride in the tires for added weight. I'll be using this for moving dirt and general clean up in the spring with the front end loader and mowing with a brush hog with no finish mowing needed at this time. I have the industrial bar tires on the tractor now. Any suggestions based on what I've told you here?
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
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2002-01-07 34336
The tractor most likely was set up OK by the previous owner and will operate just fine unless you different conditions such as hill clay soil etc.
Operators develop a sense of when something isn't quite right, and I'd pay particular attention to how the tractor feels. If you think something feels unstable, then it probably is. There are particular feelings for a tippy tractor and also for slipping wheels. Once you feel them you'll always recognize them. Steering often is a clue for wrong ballast. It's very heavy if there's insufficient rear ballast, and very light or absent if front ballast is needed. There's a bunch of safety stuff in the archives, and reading it would be good.
It sounds like you have at least the owner’s manual, and going through the maintenance routines is a good way to get to know the tractor. Most routines are pretty straightforward. However, changing the fuel filter sometimes throws new owners a bit. The fuel lines have to be bled after changing the filter on many tractors, and the manual will describe the procedure. What manuals don't say is that often the procedure has to be repeated several times before the engine will run for more than a few seconds at a time.
Getting to know your dealer also is good. Around here, some dealers still carry the Massy name, but the larger dealers operate under AGCO (AGCO recently lost its CEO in a plane crash I hear).
If you're in a cold climate, there are some winter operating things that should be understood. Manuals will tell you about oils etc., but they may not tell you that #2 diesel fuel gels in the cold without an additive. Modern tractor diesels aren't all that hard to start in the cold, but block heaters are good. A manual may not say that in a cold weather start, the throttle is opened 1/2 to 3/4 and pre-heated if so equipped. The starter is used in a short burst, and more pre-heating is used if required. If a diesel is going to start, it does so quickly. Grinding away on the starter like on a gas engine doesn't work. Manuals don't say a bunch of other things, but this Board will.
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