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Ltd Cat 1 top link

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AV8R
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 882 North Central Wisconsin
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2004-08-26          94644

Okay, first off I have to admit being the dumb-ass who did it, but I've bent both of the rod ends on the top link off my Kubota BX 2230. (don't ask, and I won't tell)

Are these standard sized, or are they model spacific? I can't get the rod ends to screw out of it so I must replace the whole thing. Will one from one of the big box stores (Fleet Farm, TC, ect.) work, or do I have to pony up for the big "K" oem replacement?

Thanks. Larry the self appointed Dumbass of the day.


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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2004-08-26          94649

Well.... been there. Here is the deal. The BX uses a top link that is Cat 0 size/length with Cat 1 pin holes.

You can cobble a replacement together from the Farm supply store by using a cat 0 link, some 0-1 bushings and two properly sized 5/8ths bolts. Ugly, but it works.

The Kubota replacement part is $100+.

....

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AV8R
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 882 North Central Wisconsin
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2004-08-26          94656

thanks! I'll see what I cn put together. Doing my first big box-blade project (trail and driveway) tomorrow, and a top link is necessary!

I can't find any stats on what the length of a cat 1 or 0 top link is. Mine was about 14", which was a little long for the box to level out. Is this why everyone seems to cut and weld (a full cat 1?) one of these for their tractors? ....

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2004-08-27          94700

That overly long top link is an issue Kubota does not want to address.. apparently.

One of the nearby dealers has addressed the issue by ordering all his BX size implements with two sets of holes.

You can trim 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch off of each end of the body on that new Cat 0 link and that should make it just about right. Don't take too much as it won't leave enough threaded body to be safe.

You might have to take a bit off the male threads too...

Make sure you get a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt. The bushings will actually fill the extra space on the receiver part of the tractor and box blade, rather than what they are normally designed to do. ....

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
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2004-08-27          94701

Just noticed the full cat 1 question. They don't fit between the flanges. The ball sockets are too wide.

....

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AV8R
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 882 North Central Wisconsin
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2004-08-30          94987

DR: No I didn't fix or replace it yet. I used it bent this past w/e and it was okay. Just keeping a close eye on it and not over stressing it. I will be replacng it with the factory OEM next spring when 3pt season starts again (unless an aftermarket becomes available.).

The end is bent is such a way that it looks like a "P" rather than an "i", inline with the center, if you can follow me. ....

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DRankin
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2004-08-30          94998

Here's another thought: Instead of shortening the top link (when you get a new one), it seems to me that lengthening the lift arms with Pats Easy Change would be just about right. ....

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AV8R
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 882 North Central Wisconsin
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2004-08-31          95104

Drove past the Boomer dealer today and saw they had a TZ24 on the lot. Nice little machine (it has a tach!!!!).

I looked in their showroom for a top link and they had a "cat 1" which was 16" center to center.(12" body) My OEM is 14" center to center.(10" body?) This is what they recomended, at $18 for the TZ.

Can the main body of one of these be shortened 2"? Will the eyes normally be able to thread all the way out (mine won't)?

Sorry for the remedial questions.

....

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beagle
Join Date: Jan 2004
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2004-08-31          95114

Before you cut the body, you may want to check the bottom out dimentsion on the eyes. You may have to cut 1" off each eye to get the full adjustment.

I've seen links similar to what you are describing at TSC. Looks like you could cut and weld the body, you would destroy the Zink coating at the weld and would have to paint over the burns. If the eyes are too wide, they can be ground to fit in your link sockets. ....

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2004-08-31          95141

If you unscrew the Kubota link with the little phillips screws removed from the body, you can see where they used a punch to interrupt the threads to keep it from unscrewing.

A one dollar triangular needle file can be inserted into the hole so that it rests against the threads while the threaded portion is turned. This will clean up the punch crater and allow the thing to come apart.

Then you need to remove 2 inches from the center of the body, weld it back up. Then cut 1 inch from each male thread. Use the same needle file to clean up after the hacksaw and reassemble. ....

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AV8R
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 882 North Central Wisconsin
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2004-09-01          95306

See my picture #8 for the bent top link. Kubota wants $67 for a replacement. I think that I will just replace the eye, and reuse my own center body. ....

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44trxfun
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 110 western NY
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2004-09-05          95639

AV8R, I had a similar issue last winter. My MF dealer had a 7" (barrel) toplink that extended out 11-12", as I recall. I think he let me have it for about $25. I did have to have the sockets ground down to fit the toplink slot on the tractor (MF GC2300). ....

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DRankin
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2004-09-06          95662

I still got a couple of those stubby top links described in the previous post if anyone needs one. ....

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dfkrug
Join Date: Nov 2003
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2004-09-14          96447

Hey AV8R, you can straighten your top link with one of those cheapo Harbor Freight pipe benders ($99 for the 12T). Also check Ebay for toplinks. I got a conventional one for $13 and a hydraulic one for $140 from the Smart Farmer, a dealer in TN.

....

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AnnBrush
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 463 Troy OH
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2004-09-14          96449

I might try a big hammer and just bang the thing back into relatively straight shape. ....

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Iowafun
Join Date: Jul 2004
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2004-09-15          96528

Av8R, you can straighten the rod ends out but they've been stressed. Those type of parts are usually made from a harder steel. If you bend it back, you run the risk of it breaking under high stress conditions. I saw quite a few rod ends like that (but smaller) when I worked on suspensions. There, a failure was a really bad thing with really ugly results. So you'll need to decide what the consequence is for a failure. ....

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