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U-Haul Auto Transport Trailer for CUT

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JParker
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 152 Richmond, VA
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2003-11-14          68780

I have been looking at rental and new trailers for a Kubota 7800 w/FEL & Loaded tires. I don't have the tractor yet, so this is shopping early.

I'm still trying to come up with my total weight. The tractor weight is listed around 1750lb, but I having trouble with the filled tire weight and FEL. At the moment I think around 3500 lbs for all.

U-haul has an Auto Transport Trailer that looks ideal (see link below); but I've been told they won't rent it out for anything but car transport. The 800 number people said they want the vehicle registration number on the vehicle to transport before they will take a reservation. When I said tractor they freaked. When I said big lawn mower they suggested a small utility trailer. This idea doesn't look promising.

My car weights 4100 lbs and I think is similar size to the Kubota. If the wheel widths work with the trailer why should they have a problem?

I've read a lot of the posts about trailers to buy, and may be headed that way anyway, but for occasional towing this sure would be nice.

For now, if I buy or rent a trailer I want to pull with a V6, 4WD Nissan Frontier (5000 lb max trailer wt, 500 lbs max tongue wt).

Am I just kidding myself about being able to pull this? Even just occasionally?

Obviously I would need trailer brakes.

Would a weight distributing hitch be a good idea as well? If I follow the 15% tongue weight rule, a 5000 lb trailer would have 750 lb on the tongue. If I’ve read the literature correctly, a distribution hitch spreads the weight more evenly to the tow vehicle, and should help with the tongue weight problem.

If U-Haul would rent the trailer, I could also rent a truck to pull it like in the link photo if necessary.

Any help or suggestions are appreciated.

- JParker



Link:   

Click Here


 
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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
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2003-11-14          68784

I don't understand these rental places at all. A tractor is just freight on wheels. That said, I don't think I'd want to haul 5000+ lbs (you have implements too, right? And you have to include the weight of the trailer) with a compact pickup. Seems like the tail wagging the dog to me. Maybe someone with more towing experience will correct me on this though. ....

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JParker
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2003-11-14          68791

That's what I'm worried about. Truck weighs about 4500lb according to local quarry's scales.

As far as impliments go, thats worth a second trip for now using the 5 x 8 utility trailer I have. I'm even considering a weight box instead of the filled tires, so I can take a few pounds off for traveling. I want to keep the FEL with me though. ....

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
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2003-11-15          68821

Rent the 24 foot mover. Drive the tractor inside. Close the door. Tow your Nissan back home on the trailer. ....

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Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2003-11-15          68827

I think Mark gave some VERY sage advice. Save your Nissan for another job. ....

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JParker
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2003-11-15          68867

So I guess I just buy or make 2 heavy duty ramps to get into the truck bed. The web site shows a 2'-9" deck height.

After that the only obstacle may be the wheel wells, and away I go.

Thanks, I hadn't even considered an enclosed truck.

Anyone out there used this method before?

If so, anything else I should watch out for?

$40/day sounds pretty good to be able to move the tractor. ....

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DRankin
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2003-11-15          68874

The wheel wells on the U-Haul are way wider than the tractor if that is what you were referring to...

I used a similar method when I moved from Alaska to Nevada. I had a 40 foot ocean-going container parked in the yard. I loaded half with all I possessed and saved the last 18 feet for the Tacoma pick-up.

Ramps.... several thicknesses of 3/4 in plywood backed by some 2x4 stringers would hold a lot of weight. but you can also use a loading dock if one is handy.... thats how the truck got on the trailer.... or a slide-back wrecker, that's how it came off.
....

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Chief
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2003-11-25          69641

I would go with the loading dock or ramp. That would be your easiest and safest bet. Worst case if you are left with no other options might be to use a 3/4" plywood ramp reinforced with 4 x 4's. 4 of them as stringers like Mark mentioned should be plenty to hold the weight of the tractor but take it slow anyway to see if it will support the load. Depending on how high the truck bed is, a plywood ramp may not be long enough to make a reasonable boarding angle for the tractor. Good luck! ....

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Murf
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2003-11-26          69677

We routinely ship CUT's in shipping containers. Since there is never a ramp where we need it we just call a local towing company to send over a tilt & load unit. It usually only costs us $20 or $30 bucks. They raise the deck up to the back of the container, we back onto the deck, they pull ahead and lower the deck and we drive off. It's very safe, convenient and cheaper than fiddling around building ramps you'll never need again.

Best of luck. ....

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kubotaguy
Join Date: Nov 2003
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2003-11-26          69678

I've pulled a car trailer with a Massey Ferguson MF135 with several attachments putting the weight around 5000 pounds with a Chevy S-10 pick-up. I had trailer brakes as well as the reese hitch. I only use it occasionally to move that tractor, but it can be done as long as care is used which is always needed when towing a trailer. I haven't towed my new B-7800 with my pick-up yet, but I don't think it will be a problem. I do know that a lot of car trailers cannot accomodate the 72" MMM because of the fenders on the trailer. ....

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JParker
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2003-11-26          69718

Thanks again for all the great input.

I thought the U-Haul Truck idea was the best option so far until I spoke with a structural engineer in our building today about ramp strength. He brought up something I hadn't considered.

He said, the trucks generally don't have any substantial tie down points to anchor the tractor to. Usually just some light weight, track mounted loops or rub rails on the sidewalls to tie a couch or mattress up to. I'll have to go see one to be sure, but that seems to have shot down an otherwise great idea.

The truck deck height is listed as 33". If the tie down problem can be solved, I'm sure the ramp can be as well; or maybe I'm back to buying a trailer, and borrowing or renting a bigger tow vehicle.

Presently, I don't have any mowing device. I will most likely go with a 5' rotary cutter this Spring, so width or ground clearance shouldn't be an issue. ....

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DRankin
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2003-11-26          69721

The ocean going container that I used to move from Alaska had no tie-downs either. But it had a wooden floor. We nailed down 2x4's as cleats and blocked in the tires on the pick-up. It traveled fine, no shifting around.

I don't know what sort of floor you will find in a U-Haul truck. The slide-back/flatbed wrecker is the way to go for both loading and unloading. ....

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Cub-Scout
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2004-01-01          72842

Have you figured it out yet? I'll throw in my 2 cents worth.
I'm somewhat in the same boat, and have done what you're talking about in the past, so I'll give 2 different perspectives. I am in the process of buying a Cub Cadet 7305 w/FEL & BH. I'm figuring total weight of 4700 lbs. I own an 18' 10K car hauler trailer....all steel, flat deck with rear stabilizers and drop deck that I picked up for $1900. I just wanted to have it, to move cars, or my new Cub, and have used it to move my Cub 1782 with FEL and Box blade (about 1500 lbs.)
I also have a 6-cylinder SUV...a 4 runner....with the 3500 LB load it pulled it OK (w/o extra brakes) but I also haven't hauled it long distances and did take it very easy. I'm seriously doubting the 4runner will be able to haul 6800 lbs (over rated max), and my other truck (1980 Scout w/nissan diesel) will barely get out of it's own way. It's got lots of low-end torque, but towing a load - uh uh. I did hook it up to my trailer and 1782 for a test run, I think it took me about 5 minutes to get to 60 MPH.
Sorry, I digress. Now I'm using a buddy's new Powerstroke to pick up the Cub 7305, absolutely no problem there....which is why I'm considering a Powerstroke for myself.
To the second half....I've used Uhaul trucks on several moves....and have put my Scout in the back on a couple. I THINK you should be able to move the CUT in a box truck...I would use the FEL against the front of the truck, displacing the load across the loader....and chock the back wheels with big rubber chocks for a steel floor, or nail down wood chocks for a wood floor. Your friend is right, there are no suitable tiedowns for vehicles/tractors. I traveled from FL to WA with no problems. Of course, I also had the rest of the van packed to the gills, which held everything in place. NOTE; no sudden starts or stops, especially on a hill! I did this, and heard a big bang....the scout hit the back door and put a nice dent in the door. Of course, I didn't have it chocked down, on a steel floor....big dummy.
Lastly, my little trick for loading/unloading....find a hill/slope somewhere around where you're loading/unloading....I searched around a little, found a little slope...used double 2X12's....no problems! I guess the frequency/distance you'll be moving your equipment would dictate renting/buying....also, Uhaul has the drop-down deck which gets the deck real close to the ground...and rent a diesel, which gets twice or 3 times the mileage of a gas truck.

Hope this helps....Happy New Year!!
Frank ....

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itsgottobegreen
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2004-01-19          74510

jparker U-haul trucks have a smooth alumiun floor, so you could get some self tapping screws and screw in a piece of angle iron into the floor. If they ask about the holes, "What Holes". Why don't you have the dealer throw in free deliver.
Cub that hill idea you have is how my buddy moves his john deere crawler loader. He would put the loader in the back of the peterbuilt strait chip/log truck. Then tow the 18" chipper. He would look for a hill, back up and drive the loader off. Then load he would back up to the chip pile and drive into the back of the truck. He now cheats because he got a selfpropelled chipper on a trailer. Drive of the chipper, flip up a second set of ramps into the back of the truck and drive the loader off onto the trailer. Then off the trailer to the ground. They can clear an acre in about 3 hours. The loader has a 18" tree shear and the chipper has a 18" capacity. It mostly pine the have on lot clearing job so they don't keep the logs. ....

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lbrown59
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2004-10-08          97916

options might be to use a 3/4" plywood ramp reinforced with 4 x 4's. 4 of them as stringers like Mark mentioned should be plenty to hold the weight of the tractor but take it slow anyway to see if it will support the load.
Chief
==============
Might be a good idea to test the ramps first by laying a couple of 4x4s under each end of the ramps on a level surface and driving the tractor over them.
I would rather have a ramp collapse when I'm 4'' above the ground rather than half way up onto a truck.

>


....

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lbrown59
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2004-10-08          97917


I don't know what sort of floor you will find in a U-Haul truck. The slide-back/flatbed wrecker is the way to go for both loading and unloading.
DRankin
=================
Finding a decent used one would also be ideal for the hauling too.
Now it you could get it with a dump bed too it would be the prfect set up. ....

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JD855inWI
Join Date: Aug 2004
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2004-10-08          97923

I used a U-haul like in the photo to bring 70 TA Firebird from Arizona back to WI. U-haul was all concerned about liability and wanted to see the tow vehicle 86 4x4 Suburban and load before they stamped the deal to leave Arizona. They had a list of "approved" tow vehicles and they were only full sized trucks. If you don't meet all of their criteria, they don't cover the trailer or you. Trip went well except brakes on trailer when out in Oklahoma. I'd sure be cautious about doing anything to one of their trailers or trucks, "you are responsable for modifications" you could get nailed for a new floor or worse. Some of the dealers take digital photos of the equipment before it leaves now. ....

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lbrown59
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2004-10-15          98445

U-haul has an Auto Transport Trailer that looks ideal (see link below); but I've been told they won't rent it out for anything but car transport. The 800 number people said they want the vehicle registration number on the vehicle to transport before they will take a reservation. When I said tractor they freaked. When I said big lawn mower they suggested a small utility trailer. This idea doesn't look promising.
JParker
====================
We have a rent it place here that has 3 Terramite Tractors they rent out.
They haul the Terramite on a trailer that is the same length as the tractor.They tow this with a flat bed or dump bed truck like the Ford F 350.
The trailer is different than most trailers. It's not a tilt bed and no loading ramps are needed.
The bed lowers clear down flat with the ground or pavement so you just drive straight onto the trailer.
Anyone have a trailer like this?
If U Haul won't rent you a trailer try an equipment rental place.

....

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dfkrug
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2004-11-10          100159

I recently rented a U-Haul car hauler to move a Kubota L2500, and I can tell you that even this tractor can only be hauled if the wheels are adjusted to their widest track, front and rear. A B-series Kubota will not fit into the tire channels on the trailer. If you use a trailer, it must have a continuous deck (not open in the center).

That said, I am so sick of renting trailers and trucks that I am exploring having a trailer made for me....5.5x12 deck, dual axles w/brakes, GVWR of 5K#, 3800lb cargo capacity. I am quoted around $1700. ....

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DRankin
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2004-11-10          100162

May I make the assumption that you are not intending to haul your tractor/backhoe combo with the proposed custom trailer? ....

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shortmagnum
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2004-11-10          100164

Mark's thought is the same as mine. You will want at least 16' of trailer length for tractor and loader, longer for a BH.

Tex Mex makes a nice 16' trailer with 7000 lb capacity (including the trailer). They sell for about $1200. It's the utility style with treated 2x10 floorboards. Brakes on one axle.
Dave ....

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dfkrug
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2004-11-10          100167

.....since you ask.....

My ideal trailer will allow me to move tractors, yes, but no TLBs, unless I find a Kubota BX deal. I will also haul other vehicles (nothing big) and heavy attachments like backhoes.

I just bought an 04 Tacoma V6 4WD and my tow capacity is
6000 lb, but I can tell you, 5000 lbs and its a first gear drive up my county road. :-(

The U-Haul car haulers and all the used ones I have seen are much bigger and heavier than I want. They are usually around 2000#, limiting me to 3000# cargo weight if I keep the gross weight to 5K# or less. Looking over what I have carried or will carry, I can live with the 5.5x12 bed size. If I go with this size, I can get weight down to around 1100#. Narrower width is also much better for narrow mountain roads.

BTW, such a trailer with metal deck and 12" sides makes a dump trailer for hauling sand or gravel. Just use the tractor loader with hitch ball to lift the trailer tongue.
I may need a beefier tongue, however.

Oh yeah, whenever I work with a tractor dealer, I always have them deliver. ....

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AV8R
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2004-11-10          100168

Will a L series Kubota or your 955 fit on this proposed trailer? Why not go with a car-hauler? Cheaper, more capable, usable for other things, will handle a TLB. If you take it easy, you truck will handle it. Width will not be an issue once you are used to it.

Trailers are like tractors or garages, "...once you have one, they're allways too small..." ....


Link:   My trailer & BX

 
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dfkrug
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2004-11-10          100170

"Trailers are like tractors or garages, "...once you have one, they're allways too small..."

I hear ya. I have another trailer that I now use only to carry 20-ft pieces of structural steel and lumber. It weighs about 500# and can carry over 1000#.

My workshop is too small, certainly, but I would rather have multiple trailers (and tractors) for the different jobs required.

My JD TLB only weighs about 4100#, so I could carry it with the trailer if I wanted, but will not likely need to. The nature of my trailer use in my hobbies and business is to acquire stuff. Then when it is sold, some other poor bastard has to haul it, not me. :-) Sometimes they bring really slick tilt-beds. Nice. The Kubota w/ ldr is about 3600# or so, without attachments and it would fit.

The trailer width reduction is primarily for lighter weight. My county road is also quite narrow and steep. Scares the flatlanders.

....

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JParker
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2004-11-10          100186

I just saw that this old thread has come back to life. As for me, I found a 2 year old, used twin axle 10K trailer with brakes on one axle for $1100. I had a brake controller added to the Frontier, but am not convinced that its all working correctly. The trailer has done a little light hauling but not the tractor yet. I could lock up the brakes empty on gravel, but during an empty test on pavement, it didn't appear to even slow the idling truck. Time to learn a bit more about how trailer brakes and brake controllers work. The tester I got with the controller says its wired correctly, so it may be the trailer. I haven't taken time to do any diagnostics.

Hopefully I can borrow a bigger truck if I need to move the full load anytime soon. In a few years, I may make the jump to a bigger truck.

All in all, I think either a trailer and good heavy truck or a roll back are the way to go.

-JP

....

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dfkrug
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2004-11-11          100210

I am a newbie to the whole business of electric brakes. I plan to install a controller on my Tacoma and go with electrics. Maybe I will learn something here.

Like why do some people say I should go with brakes on both axles of a tandem, when my GVWR is 5-6K#? Law in my state says brakes on one axle reqd if weight of trailer and load is 3K# or more. I do not know what the requirement is for a break-away system. I imagine that varies state-to-state.

I have noticed in renting trailers in the past 30y or so that they are often equipped with surge brakes that sometimes don't work. They also have to be disabled when backing up an incline. Another reason I want to get away from rentals. ....

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AV8R
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2004-11-11          100211

In my experience when you have brakes on one axle of a tandem or other multi-axle trailer the axle with the brakes will "bounce" when braking pressure is applied rendering the brakes nearly useless. I have seen this happen on empty and heavily loaded trailers alike. ....

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dfkrug
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2004-11-11          100212

AV8R...

Tell me more about this "bounce" effect. Your hauler looks fairly heavy.....does it have brakes on both axles?

Since electric brakes use electro-magnets, are they all on or all off? I have always wondered about that. If there is no proportional force (as with hydraulics), they must be designed for weak braking action or they will just lock up the wheels. ....

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shortmagnum
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2004-11-11          100213

While most solenoids we usually use such as for a starter are on/off only the force that is exerted is proportional to the current through them. So they do not have to be simply on or off. My inexpensive brake controler allows adjustment of the maximum braking force and the time it takes to get to that maximum.
Dave ....

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AV8R
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2004-11-11          100221

Before I bought my trailer, I borrowed a friend's with brakes on one axle. When the brake was applied the axle would twist slightly, causing the spring equalizer to lift that axle, then release. This would begin a harmonic "bounce" in the axle which shook the whole thing quite violently. My trailer has brakes on both axles and has never done this all the way up to locking all 4 tires.

An electric brake has a shoe mounted on the solinoid in the drum which pushes against the face of the drum, causing the main brake shoes to rotate around an accentric activating them. The varing current to the solinoid varies the amount of pressure to the secondary shoe which activate the primary brake. The wheel must rotate for the brake to operate. ....

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dfkrug
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2004-11-12          100264

Very interesting about this bounce effect you have seen. I wonder if that would be avoided by adjustments on the brake controller? Are one-axle brakes on a tandem trailer always on the leading axle?

Thanks for your valuable input. ....

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lbrown59
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2004-11-19          100556

All in all, I think either a trailer and good heavy truck or a roll back are the way to go.
JParker
===============
The real way to go would be a 12 to 14 foot roll back that dumps too on a truck comparable to a Ford F350.
V8 gas engine
Auto Transmission
Air conditioned
PS
I would love to have a truck like this.
It would be ideal for transporting my Kubota BX 23 and for hauling sand gravel slag dirt etc.

My objection about a pick up and a trailer is you have to buy insure license store and maintain 2 vehicles to haul one tractor and you still don't have anything to haul sand gravel slag dirt etc. with.


....

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shortmagnum
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2004-11-19          100561

"I would love to have a truck like this."

The good thing is it's out there. One guy's dream is another guy's mistake. Isn't the marketplace a great, well oiled machine? Could you imaging living in a place where some bureaucrat decided which truck or which tractor we could buy?

Dave ....

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lbrown59
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2004-11-19          100567

"I would love to have a truck like this."

The good thing is it's out there. One guy's dream is another guy's mistake. Isn't the marketplace a great, well oiled machine? Could you imaging living in a place where some bureaucrat decided which truck or which tractor we could buy?
Dave
=================

It is!
Where?
I've never seen or heard of a bed that rolls back & dumps too: ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2004-11-19          100569

There are several companies that make them, the problem is their such a comprimise at everything that their not very good at anything.

A rollback is by virtue of it's design a very heavy unit, that's why you don't see them on a P/U chassis very often. The dead weight of the rollback itself is usually tickling the payload of a P/U itself.

The other problem is pure geometry. If you had a rollback unit with a short enough platform or body on it to be able to dump something like dirt, you would basically be standing anything on wheels on end when you picked it up.

You need at least 40° before dirt will START to move, a typical dump box goes up to 70°-80° at max lift height.

A typical tilt'n'load like a car carrier goes up to a maximum of 20° when it is loading.

That's a BIG difference.

Best of luck. ....

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