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 05-12-2007, 08:14 Post: 142033
lbrown59

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I need to move an 8x16 storage building back about 12 feet.
It has 2 skids running the 16' length, but I need to move it back in the 8' direction instead of going the same direction as the skids run.

The building is 2x4 frame construction with aluminum sheet siding.
Wonder what the building weighs?
Will my BX23 be able to handle pulling or pushing it the 12 feet?

Anybody got a plan for doing this?







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 05-12-2007, 10:02 Post: 142034
earthwrks

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I've moved buildings bigger than that by hand.

Pretty simple. Jack it up enough to fit (2), 10' long, 3-4" thick-wall white PVC or CPVC pipe under it. If your'e running the pipe perpendicular to the runners all you'll need is two pieces of pipe under it and the other two running next to the ones under the shed going to the destination. A little grease or oil on the top of the pipes is good too. It's a good idea to arrange the destintaion pipes slightly under the closest runner so that it doesn't get pushed out of the way and land the shed on the ground (you're aim is a continuous slide). Then take the tractor and move one end at a time on the slides to your heart's content. Jack it up and remove the pipes. If the tractor can't get enough traction on the grass, lay down some plywood sheets and drive on that (not strips of wood--they'll get pushed out from under the tires). It also helps if you have an implement on the rear that you can get under (by chain, strap or otherwise) and raise just slightly the shed to apply down pressure to the rear wheels. I doubt you will have any problems though. I pushed a new 12x20 shed from the front driveway all the way around the side of the garage to the far side of the backyard and up onto an existing concrete pad with the pipes and a 33hp 4x4 CUT with a box scraper with no problems (the customer helped palce the pipes as I drove). At one point I was pushing on just the skids across the grass without pipes.






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 05-12-2007, 11:46 Post: 142035
hardwood

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Wow, talk about timeing, I have basicly the same thing to do soon as the addition to the shop is complete, the concreet crew is stripping the forms as we speak.
A bit of background on my portable buildings. One is 12X12 and the other is 10X12. Both were used in my former shop building, the 12X12 as a glue room and the smaller one as a finish room. They were in an unheated portion of the old shop and both were heated by electric radiant heaters and cooled and humidity controled by an earth system of buried field tile forced air system, (Home made, but it worked) both are 2X6 walls and ceileng with roll insulation, unfinished chipboard on the outside and taped sheetrock on the inside walls. What you might call the roof is just 3/4 ply flat on the 2X6 ceiling joists and was used for storage. the 12X12 has three green treated 4X6's on edge underneath and the smaller one has two running the 12 ft. direction. I no longer need these buildings in the new shop as the aerias where I will glue and finish are in the heated section. The new shop is about four miles form the old shop, all rural roads, no towns, no bridges, they're not tall enough to bother power lines, so a fork lift, a Dnahue trailer and a 4020 will have them over here in a little bit. Getting them to this point seems not to be a problem, but now I would like to put them inside the new addition of my shop that will have a 2 in. crushed limestone floor deep enough that the rats can't dig in or thru it. I'd like to have the bigger one tight into a 90 degree corner of the building and smaller one tight aginst the building wall and the side of the 12X12. Building on EW's idea of the PVC, I've got five or six round creosote poles about 8 in. in diamater and 14 ft. tall. some of you around here are old enouigh to remember what a REAL creosote pole was, not those worthless things they pass off today that rot off in ten years. Any way slide the buildings against the wall and just leave the poles there. Both buildings have a 6X6 overhead door and a 36 inch steel entrance door with good locks. I've got quite a few specialized tractor shop type tools that are better kept out of sight, there are always the "Casual Aquaintance" type folks that will ask you to borrow a tool that may have cost a thousand bucks or more, and worst of all they don't have a clue how to use it. Anyhow if you aren't asleep by now any suggestions on refining my plan would be apreciated. Frank.






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 05-20-2007, 22:18 Post: 142268
lbrown59

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Got er done.

Next step rerun the elect. and phone lines to it.

Also need to run a gas line to it as it's never had gas to it.






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 05-21-2007, 06:24 Post: 142274
hardwood

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I got my buildings moved an in exactly the spots I wanted them in the new addition on Friday. I'm a bit dim on knowing the proper name for the machine the consructiion crew is using, but it is a Gehl that has the single extendable arm that can have a forklift, a worker cage, etc. This was almost unbelievable what the operator can do with that machine. after thry hauled the buildings over here and unloaded them outside the stem wall of the building the workers put log chains around under the buildings and used the Gehl to almost no effort lift them over the walls into the exact spots I wanted them. I had saw those machines around construction sites, but never watched one being used, another "Modern Marvel" as we see on the history channel. Frank.






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 05-21-2007, 18:51 Post: 142300
earthwrks

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Frank the term for the machine they used was a "material handler". They used to be called "all-terrain forklifts" years ago. They're as versatile as a skid steer in some settings. Some manufacturers have smaller sized versions that are useful around the farm for lifting/handling round bales.






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 05-22-2007, 06:29 Post: 142318
BillShenefelt



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 HOW WOULD YOU DO IT

Similar item on a shed, but not how, if. I have a small shed. It is on 3, 4 by 6's running front to back. Each is suported on a stack of 12 inch concrete blocks. Three stacks with about 8 ft centers. Flooring is 2 by 6 on 2 by 6 joist (24 inch centers) across the three 4 by 6 beams. Could this hold my BX24? If need be, I could remove some flooring and try filing the area with some stone in addition to the block stacks. Back of the shed is almost 3 ft above the ground on the block stacks and front is about 6 inches up. Would hate to see something go wrong and the whole thing come crashing down.






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 05-25-2007, 19:56 Post: 142462
earthwrks

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If I read it right you have 2x6's as the flooring---and you don't say what condition they're in or they're treated (treated lumber is 40% weaker than dried, non-treated. I don't see it being a problem providing the wood isn't treated or rotted.

I've operated my 8,200 lb. skid steer inside homes on the Gulf coast that were rotten due to Katrina, and rot due to old age and termites. Granted I could make about 5 or six runs back and forth until I tore up the flooring and fell through, but nontheless it held extremely well.

What kind of ramp do you have to bring you nearly 4 courses of block (three courses plus the floor joists)?






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Projects Forum

Thread 142033 Filter by Poster:
BillShenefelt 1 | earthwrks 3 | hardwood 2 | lbrown59 2 |

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