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 08-26-2004, 20:20 Post: 94644
AV8R



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 Ltd Cat 1 top link

Okay, first off I have to admit being the dumb-ass who did it, but I've bent both of the rod ends on the top link off my Kubota BX 2230. (don't ask, and I won't tell)

Are these standard sized, or are they model spacific? I can't get the rod ends to screw out of it so I must replace the whole thing. Will one from one of the big box stores (Fleet Farm, TC, ect.) work, or do I have to pony up for the big "K" oem replacement?

Thanks. Larry the self appointed Dumbass of the day.






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 08-26-2004, 20:41 Post: 94649
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 Ltd Cat 1 top link

Well.... been there. Here is the deal. The BX uses a top link that is Cat 0 size/length with Cat 1 pin holes.

You can cobble a replacement together from the Farm supply store by using a cat 0 link, some 0-1 bushings and two properly sized 5/8ths bolts. Ugly, but it works.

The Kubota replacement part is $100+.






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 08-26-2004, 21:00 Post: 94656
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 Ltd Cat 1 top link

thanks! I'll see what I cn put together. Doing my first big box-blade project (trail and driveway) tomorrow, and a top link is necessary!

I can't find any stats on what the length of a cat 1 or 0 top link is. Mine was about 14", which was a little long for the box to level out. Is this why everyone seems to cut and weld (a full cat 1?) one of these for their tractors?






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 08-27-2004, 09:18 Post: 94700
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 Ltd Cat 1 top link

That overly long top link is an issue Kubota does not want to address.. apparently.

One of the nearby dealers has addressed the issue by ordering all his BX size implements with two sets of holes.

You can trim 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch off of each end of the body on that new Cat 0 link and that should make it just about right. Don't take too much as it won't leave enough threaded body to be safe.

You might have to take a bit off the male threads too...

Make sure you get a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt. The bushings will actually fill the extra space on the receiver part of the tractor and box blade, rather than what they are normally designed to do.






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 08-27-2004, 09:21 Post: 94701
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 Ltd Cat 1 top link

Just noticed the full cat 1 question. They don't fit between the flanges. The ball sockets are too wide.






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 08-30-2004, 15:20 Post: 94987
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 Ltd Cat 1 top link

DR: No I didn't fix or replace it yet. I used it bent this past w/e and it was okay. Just keeping a close eye on it and not over stressing it. I will be replacng it with the factory OEM next spring when 3pt season starts again (unless an aftermarket becomes available.).

The end is bent is such a way that it looks like a "P" rather than an "i", inline with the center, if you can follow me.






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 08-30-2004, 17:52 Post: 94998
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 Ltd Cat 1 top link

Here's another thought: Instead of shortening the top link (when you get a new one), it seems to me that lengthening the lift arms with Pats Easy Change would be just about right.






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 08-31-2004, 14:31 Post: 95104
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 Ltd Cat 1 top link

Drove past the Boomer dealer today and saw they had a TZ24 on the lot. Nice little machine (it has a tach!!!!).

I looked in their showroom for a top link and they had a "cat 1" which was 16" center to center.(12" body) My OEM is 14" center to center.(10" body?) This is what they recomended, at $18 for the TZ.

Can the main body of one of these be shortened 2"? Will the eyes normally be able to thread all the way out (mine won't)?

Sorry for the remedial questions.






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 08-31-2004, 15:38 Post: 95114
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 Ltd Cat 1 top link

Before you cut the body, you may want to check the bottom out dimentsion on the eyes. You may have to cut 1" off each eye to get the full adjustment.

I've seen links similar to what you are describing at TSC. Looks like you could cut and weld the body, you would destroy the Zink coating at the weld and would have to paint over the burns. If the eyes are too wide, they can be ground to fit in your link sockets.






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 08-31-2004, 18:49 Post: 95141
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 Ltd Cat 1 top link

If you unscrew the Kubota link with the little phillips screws removed from the body, you can see where they used a punch to interrupt the threads to keep it from unscrewing.

A one dollar triangular needle file can be inserted into the hole so that it rests against the threads while the threaded portion is turned. This will clean up the punch crater and allow the thing to come apart.

Then you need to remove 2 inches from the center of the body, weld it back up. Then cut 1 inch from each male thread. Use the same needle file to clean up after the hacksaw and reassemble.






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