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DRankin
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2003-10-27          67194

I tried splitting some of the new cottonwood and ended up saying "screw that!" ............and it turns out you can.

Any experience with this gizmo out there?



Link:   Stickler Wood Splitter

 
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AC5ZO
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2003-10-27          67198

I have used the pointed "wedges" for use with a hammer before, but this looks like a good idea. I watched their video and it seems fast enough that I would be thinking about a conveyor to get the wood moved easily rather than having to get up. ....

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Chief
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2003-10-27          67199

Mike you must have some SERIOUS WIDE band high speed internet service! I am still downloading the video and I get over 50k. ;-) ....

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Chief
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2003-10-27          67202

Finally got it to finish downloading. It looks like it works smooth enough in the video. I have a big question with repect to safety and what would happen if the log created enough resistance to spin around and knock the truck off the jacks or hit the operator. A vehicle with a limited slip differential would have to have both rear wheels jacked up. Hey...... you could run dual Sticklers! ;-) If you jacked up only one side of the axle with an open differential, I am not sure if the spider gears were designed to operate in that manner for extended periods of time. Looks like a neat idea though. If it works as good as in the video on stubborn stuff, not a bad log splitter for under $300. ....

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AC5ZO
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2003-10-27          67203

I have a 512K bidirectional T1 data line coming into my office. I use a regular modem at home.

My computer is also set up for video editing, so when I click on the movie icon, I start getting video in about ten seconds and it runs straight off the data stream. ....

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AC5ZO
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2003-10-27          67206

I agree about the limited slip diff. That might be a problem. But regular open differentials should be able to operate this way for an extended period. The load is very low and the engine is really idling.

The only time that I have ever had a problem with the open diffs wearing out is in the Baja races where we sometimes run for an extended period with a flat tire. Two or three hours of running with good engine power is enough to trash the gears, but I really don't think that the stickler would be a problem.

Back in the 1960s, we used a setup for butchering that used an old car as a power source for the saws, sausage grinders and other equipment. The car chassis was blocked and a wheel without a tire was used to drive a long V belt to the butchering shed. This is similar to the "Old Thresher's" use of flat belts to power equipment. ....

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DRankin
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2003-10-27          67207

I am going to call the manufacturer this morning and ask the limited slip question and the rear pto question that you all are thinking out there.

I'll let you know what I learn.
....

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kwschumm
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2003-10-27          67211

I didn't bother to download the video due to slow internet connection, but if I was the guy in the picture sitting and feeding logs to the stickler my back would be killing me! ....

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AC5ZO
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2003-10-27          67215

Randy,
I don't think that you could run duals since you would have to have one threaded RH and the other threaded LH. I know that you were joking, but it make me think that you might have to plan how you do this.

In the video, they were using the RH wheel which would drive the RH screw threads of the Stickler with the left wheel blocked and the transmission in L. I guess that you could run on the left side if you used the truck in R, but I don't know if the drivetrain is as durable in R as it is in forward gearing.

I guess that if you used it in R, you would be splitting wood and taking miles off the truck at the same time. ;-) ....

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Chief
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2003-10-27          67216

Mark, I thought you already had a regular powered log splitter? If your current powered log splitter is powered by the dounut eater that swings the sledge hammer; OH YEAH! You need a log splitter! ;-) Been there and done that and after 2 years of splitting wood manually, I bought a log splitter.

I think another issue with the Stickler would be jacking or blocking up the vehicle off the pavement. It looks like they used plywood sheet for shoring in the video. I would also have some questions as to exactly how the limited slip differential would act with the Stickler applying typical resistance. Normally the limited slip unit does not engage unit a given amount of slipage between axles takes place. But then again, I would think that both axles would turn together with little to minimal resistance applied to them by the Stickler. They did not address that in the FAQ section. I still wonder about the wear and tear on the spider gears with an open differential. There may not be much load applied but the differential would see the same use as if you were driving in a tight circle for hours. Normally they are not exposed to operation such as this. In any case if you did develope an differential problem, and it is under warranty, the dealer shop guys do not want to hear you were splitting logs with it. Probably wouldn't believe it anyway. Still is a neat looking idea! ....

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AC5ZO
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2003-10-27          67218

Ken,
I thought the same thing. But, I would be hurting getting up and down all the time bringing in a new piece of wood. I guess that if you get the conveyor rigged up, you could dig a hole with your tractor for a Lazy-Boy chair.

Mark, when you mentioned PTO, I guess that you had worked out the speed numbers on the wheel like I did. I would like to know if I could put one of those screws on my tractor PTO. I would think that the bearings on the PTO spline would be good enough to carry the Stickler without additional bearings. ....

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Murf
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2003-10-27          67219

Mark, these things have been around FOREVER. When I first saw the picture a little light bulb went off in my head.

I have a Popular Mechanics from the Forties that has an ad in it for one of these things, it describes it as being "far superior to older models". My Father says they had one on the farm he recalls running on an old Model 'T' that was used for gathering firewood.

He also says they were commonly referred to as 'widow makers' or 'suicide splitters' because of their safety record.

Apparently they aren't too bad on nice straight-grained hardwood, but gnarly twisty stuff just sucks that thing in till the threads strip in the hole.

Rent a splitter, it's way easier, besides I for one would have a tough time getting used to calling you "Lefty"....

Best of luck. ....

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Chief
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2003-10-27          67220

Just in case you are interested. Nice prices even with the shipping cost. ....


Link:   click here

 
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DRankin
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2003-10-27          67221

I just spoke with the owner of the company and he says a modern limited slip diff is not a problem due to the very low rotational speeds. There have been problems in the past with locking type differentials.

The PTO idea is not a new one to him but as he pointed out, it would require a differently threaded cone as the current model works off a counterclockwise turning wheel and most PTO's turn clockwise.

He said he is looking into a reversing gearbox for PTO applications.

As far as safety issues, the unit he sells comes with a kill switch for the car engine so if things get bound up somehow apparently you can shut her down real quick.

The price is about a third of what a PTO splitter costs.

I ordered on to fit on my Tundra..... stay tuned. ....

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Chief
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2003-10-27          67222

The price was a mistake on the link I posted. Here is the correct price. $100 cheaper! ....


Link:   click here

 
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AC5ZO
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2003-10-27          67224

I don't currently use any PTO implements, but I thought that the rotation was a problem. I could always mount one on my Baja Bug instead. Everything else I have has limited slip or locking differentials.

It would seem to me that it might be easier to make a LH thread than to use a gearbox. The added cost would probably push buyers toward the regular version and destroy the PTO market entirely.

As far as safety is concerned, I would worry about loose clothing and gloves getting caught more than anything else. The kill switch is a good idea. ....

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DennisCTB
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2003-10-27          67225

--Wood Free

--Toyota Tundra list $32900

--Stickler under $300

--New Transmision rear axle transfer case $7,500

--Replacement of Wool Sweater wound round Stickler $50

Medical Bills after impalement and wool cord strangulation Priceless!!!!

Mark you are the Master on these things and I hope it all works as advertised. When I used to be a firewood buff, for a wood stove I had years ago, my Dad would always bust me with a comical perspective about how much I was saving with my stove.

For my money separating the splitter from anything I value is a good idea, and with something like this I would definitely not want to be using anything out of the main stream approach, hey I guess I lack that sense of western pioneering, ah how boring it is here in the east!

According to my calculations of a speed of 15 to 20 mph your rear wheel will be rotating at between 2.7 to 3.6 revolutions per second (160 - 216 rpm). I assume the kill switch only turns off the motor? It would probably be better if it applied the brakes, maybe you could fabricate something that pulls the emergency brake.

Keep us posted ;>)

Dennis
Tractorpoint

....

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AC5ZO
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2003-10-27          67232

The problem with applying the brakes is that you will apply more torque to the tire on the ground. The free wheel is moving at double speed because of the differential. That means that you would get double torque at the stationary wheel. This is the same technique that you might use on a spinning wheel in snow.

If we applied all these safety precautions to the lowly chain saw, it would have a cage around it and a remote control pendant.

The free wheel speed would be about 300 RPMs for an indicated speed of 15 MPH.

....

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Wildman1
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2003-10-27          67235

Mark, just a question: why would you want to split cottonwoods?? I can't give them away. ....

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DRankin
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2003-10-27          67238

I think I could hurt myself worse with the axe that I cannot extract from a piece of cottonwood I tried to split.

Currently I am working with an open wheeled tractor, spinning PHD driveshafts, a six foot tall drill press, open sanding belts, two chain saws: one with 7 hp and a 36 inch bar, 100+ pound rocks, 90 pound railroad ties, a pressure washer capable of driving poisons under my skin, various reciprocating and rotating saws, 600 pound slabs of firewood, jacks, chains, pulleys, levers and 900 pound implements.

Somehow, adding a big screw to the list doesn't seem so bad.

As I wrote to Chief earlier: I plan on building in some additional safety anyway, such as using it on a concrete slab. If I choose to sit while operating it, I will use a wheeled stool that I can push away with easily. Might just kneel on a pad and keep myself stable that way.

Might also build a box to enclose the spinning parts that will keep me out.

Anyway, if after I get it (and before I actually use it) if it looks too scary I can return it for a full refund.

It would be kinda bad to survive all the above, 15 years of God-awful mean streets and end up getting screwed by your own truck.

Oh yes..... Dennis, Wood is my main source of heat supplemented with electric heaters in areas that get a little drafty. So it's a gotta not a wanna........
....

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DRankin
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2003-10-27          67240

Wildman..... down here split cottonwood sells for $200+ a cord. Split hardwoods are closer to $300 a cord. ....

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DennisCTB
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2003-10-27          67245

Mark,

You know when you said Cottonwood, I figured it was the arid climate and the lack of firewood that peaked your interest. Back here in the east where it is raining about 50% of the time, Cottonwoods rot in the pile before you can burn them.

Also, ours while they grow super fast, they do not seem to live long, because with the hunidity, they either get disease or get blown over in a nor easter.

Of course what we call a Cottonwood here might be a different species than what you have out there. In Florida they burn Palm trees for firewood, and even sappy pine. Something no one in the north east would do because of the abundance of hardwood.
....

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Chief
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2003-10-27          67247

Mark......... are you serious!!!!!!!!!!! I am struggling to sell seasoned split & stacked oak for $100 a cord! For that price, maybe it is worth it to truck it out to you! ;-) Wish I could get that price for it here. Almost not worth my effort to sell at that price. Still have about 15 cords sitting around. ....

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DRankin
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2003-10-27          67255

I bought three cords of split, partially seasoned almond last winter for $285 a cord.

Presently, I have $1200 invested in new equipment and about 6 cords stacked up so I am at the break even point, money wise. There are another 3 to 5 cords left to haul out of there.

....

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Chief
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2003-10-27          67275

For that price, it is cheaper to heat with oil, gas, or electric isn't it? It is here in TN. ....

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DRankin
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2003-10-27          67292

The 30 year old oil furnace died. The electric bill was $350 a month with the wood stove going 24/7. ....

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Wildman1
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2003-10-28          67304

Well, I just happened to have 5 100' cottonwoods that I'm gonna drop next spring...BEFORE they blow over and wreck my house. You're welcome to them or they go onto just another big burn pile. I've got more birch & spruce firewood than I can use. ....

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getrdun
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2003-10-28          67321

The man I bought my tractor from had one of these (SCREW-IT-UP-SPLITERS) mounted on a frame to go in the lift arms on the tractor an PTO. When I asked him how it worked he mumbled a few things I couldn't decipher, an quickly changed the subject. I call it a screw it up because I'm sure thats what it would do to my back. Also in the video that man must have looked a long time for a piece of wood with that straight of grain. the way that stuff popped I think I could split 1/2 cord with a double bit axe an never have to bend over, in the time it would take to bolt it on an jack up the truck. I'd like to see it split a piece of Hackberry or Red elm . The only thing I can see it would be handy for would be a set of 4 would keep people from crowding you when they pass . Just joking I'll stick to my axe an mall Getrdun ....

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Chief
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2003-10-28          67323

getrdun, believe you have identified the most efficient use of these impliments. Having one mounted to each wheel on my pickup and 3 mounted to each bumper for addressing tailgater and left lane hog issues would make the ideal vehicle for driving around Washington D.C. and Nashville! ;-) Would also make a great vehicle for crossing the grocery store picket lines out in CA. Just kiddin"!!! ....

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Murf
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2003-10-28          67325

Mark, with the cost of wood, oil & electric that high you should look into buying a corn stove. They are very efficient and I can't believe you would have any problem getting corn out there.

The Legion put one in the lounge here a few years back. It burns about a 5 gal. bucket of corn a day, around here a 50 lb. sack of corn is $5.00 delivered, if you buy it by the ton it is only $4.00 a bag, delivered.

They also make "multi-fuel" stoves which will burn corn kernels, corn cobs, wood pellets (compressed sawdust), wood chips, sunflowers heads or almost anything else flammable.

Of course with the price of wood as low as it is around here people buy corn stoves for the convenience, they will run for 24hrs. on a single fill-up, more than for the cost of operation.

Dry hardwood, cut, split and delivered is $45 a 16" face cord, in bulk it is $45 a bush cord.

Best of luck. ....

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Chief
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2003-10-28          67326

That is an excellent point Murf! I was talking to my Dad about that last year when corn was around $1.80 a bushel. It was barely worth his time to even fool with it. This year it looks like it is going well over the $2 mark. The corn stoves are expensive; but for the cost you pay for wood Mark, I think it would pay for itself in a couple of seasons. If you put up a large enough grain bin, you could buy in bulk from the local Coop and save money on the corn. ....


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DRankin
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2003-10-28          67329

I have investigated corn stoves and wood pellet stoves. I didn't go so far as to get the local price for corn but the wood pellets available by the pallet from Lowe's do not represent any significant savings at this point.

One of the problems is the character of the house, which has been likened to a 3000 square foot rambling mine shack. All the heat is produced by a wood stove insert stuffed into a big old stone chimney.

Cutting up the house to install another chimney is not on the option list at this point. Humping wood and passive solar is where we are although getting some insulation in the roof is on the to-do list. ....

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Murf
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2003-10-28          67337

Mark, here are a couple of points you may have overlooked.

First, a lot of the wood pellet manufacturers up here will happily drop-ship pellets in either 500 lb. or 1000 lb. 'pallet boxes', big cardboard boxes witha plastic bag liner, there is a knock-out perforation on one side which reveals a tube which folds out for easy pouring into a bucket or the like. Because you buy right from the manufacturer shipping is usually less than the mark-up of the middleman.

Secondly, most corn or pellet stoves today can use a "B" vent and be ducted right through any exterior wall, some even have the option of a 'powered "B" vent' which means you can be up to 50' from an exterior wall.

Lastly, they have outdoor corn-burning boilers, with this system you just run small diameter PEX (cross-link polyethylene) tubing to a radiator or heat exchanger, sort of a small heater like in a vehicle, a heater core and fan to push the air through it. The whole system uses VERY little electricity and because of the design it is very easy to heat only certain areas so you aren't wasting heat on unoccupied ares of the house, just where you are.

Best of luck. ....

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DRankin
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2003-10-28          67342

As usual Murf, your information is quite valuable.

A remote corn fired boiler would heat the garage and the house. I will see if Chief's link has more info. ....

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Murf
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2003-10-28          67350

Mark, it didn't click on me until I re-read the whole thread but you said your oil furnace died. If you had a forced air furnace previously they have a really slick heat exchanger that just goes right inside your existing plenum and uses the existing ducting and blower. It is intended as supplemental heat for existing heat plants but might be just the ticket for your needs.

Have a look at the link below also, they are not an outdoor unit per se, but could easily be installed in the shop to feed the house as well, or vice versa.

BTW, have a look at cornburner dot com for some good info and even some pricing, etc.

Best of luck. ....


Link:   Pinnacle Stove Sales

 
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DRankin
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2003-10-29          67415

I guess I forgot to mention the the rocket scientist who designed and installed the forced air system years ago had no idea what that big metal box was for, so there is no plenum.

Even when the system worked it sounded just like a 1st generation 737 engine. We never could use it at night and expect to sleep too.

I have to rip to whole system out and do something different. ....

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Chief
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2003-10-29          67417

Mark, something else you may want to consider since your heating system is toast. When I moved into my current home; I found a terminal case of "previous home owner half ass" on just about everything.......heating/HVAC included. I did some research and found that my local electric power utility offered special financing and to home owner's who installed high efficiency HVAC systems. I ended up installing 2 2 1/2 ton heat pump systems. One for each end of the house. They can be installed with either a split or one piece unit. You can add a heat circulation coil to these systems from a wood, corn, or other heat source. The heat pumps are pretty good heat down to about 40-45 degrees. Below 35 degrees, they are straight electric coil heat. You would have the wood or corn stove fired up by then and you just use the air circulator part of the system then. That is one idea. Since you already have an oil heat system, you could plumb right into that with a wood heat boiler source. Propane is nice and user friendly, but if you don't buy in massive bulk quantity when the price is low; the pricing can be very unstable at times. If you current A/C is in good shape, the simplest course of action is probably to plumb into the exhisting oil heat system with the wood/corn heat boiler and use the circulator pump of your exhisting heat system. The biggest problem will be finding a local HVAC guy who does good work if you are not going to do it yourself. ....

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DRankin
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2003-10-29          67421

Air conditioning? It neeeds improvement. Some of the windows don't have screens. :] ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2003-10-29          67424

Mark, send the old furnace off to the 'recycling people' and just replace the whole unit with a big sheet metal hood over top of a corn-fired stove, like a big range hood powered by a conventional squirrel-cage type blower assembly.

If you want to get a little fancy you can rig it up through a thermostat and relays to automate the process a little, but it's not necessary.

If you want to use the same principle with a furnace it is even easier, they make corn-fired hot air furnaces with water coils for domestic hot water, or auxillary heating of remote areas like your shop. I saw one of these installed in a house in town, they ran a coil from the furnace to an infloor radiant system that heated all the tiled ares of the house (bath & kitchen) and even one to the slab in the garage to help burn off the moisture under the cars.

In fact the local guy who sells the outdoor units has done several in the last few years that are home heating in the winter and pool heaters the rest of the year, kind of a nifty idea, I am thinking of doing the same thing, but it will only heat my solarium and pool.

Best of luck. ....

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2003-10-29          67474

The big brown truck came today and dropped off the Stickler and an adapter plate for the Tundra.

All went well for about 15 minutes, until I read the procedure to hook up the kill switch. The switch is a simple device and is designed to interrupt the power to a central coil or a distributor.

It just so happens the Tundra has neither of those ignition components. I won't even try it without the safety switch functioning so I guess it will have to go back.

From what I can gather, the switch will also not work on a diesel engine unless you wired it to a fuel cutoff solenoid.

So...... I guess I am back to the 3 point hydraulic splitter.......... anyone know of any hot deals out there? ....

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Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2003-10-29          67480

Mark, I imagine you are disappointed as am I that things did not work out. I say this with the best of feelings and intentions at heart Mark........I for one am also VERY VERY HAPPY to hear that you are sending that death trap back. That thing just makes chills run up my spine thinking about what would happen if a piece of clothing or something got caught in it spinning so fast or if the piece of wood jammed and knock the truck off the jack stand. I think you will be far better off with a 3 pt. or stand alone splitter. I would go with the stand alone splitter as they cost about the same as a nice stand alone splitter anyway, but in any case here is a link to a nice 3 pt. splitter. Glad to not look forward to calling you lefty! ;-) ....


Link:   click here

 
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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2003-10-29          67482

Sorry it didn't work out for you Mark. Hopefully they will refund your money without a problem.

With regards to log splitters, I'm looking for one too. A new Northern catalog arrived here yesterday and they had a 3-point splitter for $429. It didn't look too bad, although it isn't as powerful as some of the 20+ ton monsters. This splitter isn't very fancy (I think that's good) and it is horizontal operation only.
....


Link:   Northern splitter

 
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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2003-10-29          67485

I've been sorta thinking of one of these splitters too. The Air-hydraulic one seems simple enough without much effort if you have an air compressor. No pumping a hydraulic jack and it seems small enough to store without any trouble. ....


Link:   Air-Hydraulic splitter

 
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Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2003-10-29          67486

Ken, the link for the Norther Splitter doesn't seem to work. Might just be my connection. ....

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Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2003-10-29          67487

Mark, I still think this is your best buy. I have one almost exactly like it except that I have the Honda 5.5 hp engine and mine is rated at 20 tons. Very few pieces of wood mine cannot split. ....


Link:   click here

 
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kwschumm
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2003-10-29          67488

Thanks, Chief. For some reason the link directly to the splitter doesn't work. I replaced it with a link to the log splitter search page which does work. ....

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RadioOne
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 5 Locust, NC
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2003-11-02          67773

My dad had one of these things back when I was a kid, and we split a LOT of wood with that thing. Can't really say that I ever felt safe around it though. The biggest problem that we had was that our wood stove needed short logs, but the screw splitter has trouble splitting them. Longer logs work just fine, but the screw will grab a shorter log and spin it around. I don't ever recall the truck ever getting knocked off the jack, but I did get whacked with spinning logs on several occaisions. I distinctly remember, even as a 12 year old kid, being amazed that this contraption was not illegal. I would definitely reccomend steering clear of this thing if you value the continued use of all of your limbs. Splitting wood with that thing is probably the reason that I prefer splitting with a heavy maul even to this day. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2003-11-12          68580

I came across a company in the UK that makes a Stickler-type splitter for a 3pth, the big difference is there's has a steel plate a few inches below the auger, this would help hold the wood from splitting very well.

It looks like a much better setup overall.

Best of luck. ....


Link:   Hydrocut Hy-Crack Splitter

 
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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
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2003-11-12          68603

I got wind of the Brit unit a couple of weeks ago. I didn't go very far with it because I heard the unit plus shipping was a lot more money than a box store hydraulic splitter.

It looks like a well made outfit. ....

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AC5ZO
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2003-11-13          68649

Mark, did you get a hydraulic splitter? ....

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DRankin
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2003-11-13          68684

Yes, I sent the stickler back and ordered a three point hydraulic splitter. ....


Link:   

Click Here


 
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Nolan
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2003-12-02          70085

I've got one of the screw type log splitters. Mine's the Unicorn, fits on a tractor 3 point hitch. Mine also uses an attached arm to resist the rotation. I would never, ever, use one that simply attaches to the wheel of my vehicle. There's a tremendous amount of torque involved in splitting the logs. I've had it stall the tractor several times when splitting large logs. I've also had it take a log and tear it apart on the arm that prevents spinning, leaving me a nice chunk of wood to get off the auger screw. Then there is the danger of moving a piece of wood up against that auger and not getting tangled in it yourself. I've come close a few times.

The units work, but are spooky. I'd only use a 3 point hitch type. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2003-12-02          70101

Nolan, after reading your description I have to ask myself, and you also, why on earth are you still using this thing ?

Please take no offence at this comment, I just can't imagine using such a dangerous implement, especially given your "I've come close a few times." statement.

Best of luck. REALLY.
....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2003-12-16          71386

I have a Stickler custom-mounted on a large skidloader with a 2" hex drive hydraulic auger driver. My original idea was to use it to bust-up stumps still in the ground. (Digging them out with a skid loader with forks takes up to 5 minutes depending on size) It works OK but is still in the development stages. The problems I ran into so far are:
1. I need some way of keeping the log from spinning (when splitting firewood.
2. The auger turns at a relatively slow speed/but high-torque, comparable to a regular log splitter (no time savings).
3. After splitting two small logs the Stickler generated so much heat that the wood started to smoke and the Stickler squealed like crazy on the third log. (A buddy suggested squirting oil all the time ---suuuure)
4. Since the auger drive is reversable, the chrome tip backs out of the the Stickler, and will need to be welded.

It might pay off when I get more time to experiment. Might be for sale soon----stay tuned!!!!! ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2003-12-16          71388

I have to say after much experimenting myself the fastest way to split wood, stumps included, is a hydraulic demolition hammer mounted on a full-size TLB and equipped with a sharpened spade bit.

Of course it's far from cost-effective to split wood with a $75,000 TLB equipped with a $10,000 breaker, but it sure makes fast work of wood.

I have been working on a 4-way splitter which would go in place of the bucket, the idea is to be able to pick up ablock and then split it over the truck or trailer, but there are many small problems to overcome still.

Best of luck. ....

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