Rear blade and plow sizes : Tractor Implements  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review Rear blade and plow sizes : Tractor Implements -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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 06-12-2001, 10:02 Post: 29185
Terry Senay



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 Rear blade and plow sizes

I've been looking over the messages threads, cruised the web for information, and visited a few implement dealers. I'm still mystified. I want to buy a plow and rear blade to use behind my JD 4100. 12" or 14" moldboard. 5ft or 6ft rear blade. It's a little confusing. My garden area is not all that big; currently 5 beds, 3 @ 6'w X 50' L, 1 @ 65'w X 65'L, and 1 @ 30'w X 60'L. More in the works. (wife does market gardening and we're expanding a little every couple of years). The 14" moldboard looks very massive and maybe overkill. Or is it okay due to its weight. And what is the purpose of a coulter? As far as the rear blade, I'll be using primarily to move snow in winter and some minor grading. Pros and cons about rear blade features eg - light vs medium duty blade and tilting. Any suggestions/discussion is welcome. Also, is there any other site or printed material to help out us gentlemen farmers (newbies) on what different implements do and what the meanings of the equipment and hardware. Osmosis is a very slow process!!!!!!






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 06-12-2001, 10:25 Post: 29186
Murf

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 Rear blade and plow sizes

While it is true that even a single bottom plow looks over-whelming, they are designed to slice through, rather than actually 'plow' through the ground. If your wife is market gardening you might be better off, given the relatively small area you are 'farming' to get a roto-tiller for your tractor. A plow is generally used because of the speed in which a large area can be worked. A tiller will be far more useful for things like blending in soil enrichments (organics, manure, fertilizer, etc.) and for prepping in a single pass, or weeding between rows. With small areas like you are working, the quality of the preparation is more important than with a couple hundred acres where speed is critical. Best of luck.






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 06-12-2001, 12:00 Post: 29192
Terry Senay



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 Rear blade and plow sizes

Thank you for the reply. I do have a 58" tiller. However, I would like to have my soil turned over to really mix in the organics deeper. A couple of the beds have clay soil around 5"-7" below the tilled surface. This causes the "good" soil to be sometimes too wet during early spring and too dry in late summer. So I want to turn the soil as deep as possible. The other beds drain well, but I wish to turn that soil also. Additionally, I want to grow some cover crops which need turned under so that they may decompose. I know that the tiller chops the cover crops. But I think that turning it first and letting it decompose for a few weeks in early spring prior to rototilling will eventually improve the soil and let me till to a greater depth. Anywho, to get back to the original subject.... What size moldboard???






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 06-12-2001, 14:25 Post: 29201
kay



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 Rear blade and plow sizes

My 2 cents, if it were me, would be to try the 14" and hope that it would give you the depth you want. If it will not, then the 12" would be the way to go, but it would just take more passes to get the job done. The plow is a great tool to go with your tiller for many of the reasons you identified. Especially good if their is any slope to the plots. The plow will let you move the soil back up hill if you plow all one way. You asked about the coulter - it just cuts through the top layer to help roll that layer over with the moldboard. Sometimes trailing a No.9 wire in the furrow ahead of the plow helps tuck the surface debris under the rolled over layer.






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 06-12-2001, 17:22 Post: 29209
Terry Senay



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 Rear blade and plow sizes

Thank you for your reply Kay!! It's beginning to make some sense to me. Now, I really can't picture the No. 9 wire in front of the plow. You say that it would follow the furrow in front of the plow. Doesn't the plow make a furrow??

Do you or anyone else have any ideas on the rear blade question I posed? Also, any additional sites with general farming information.






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 06-12-2001, 20:26 Post: 29218
Tucker Herbold



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 Rear blade and plow sizes

I spent the last winter plowing quite a bit of snow with a 4100 and a 5' light duty blade here in Connecticut. As long as the snow was less than 5" deep, I didn't have much trouble rolling it over to the side. Any deeper, and the tractor moved to the side -- not enough weight on the tractor. I ended up adding about 400 pounds to the backend (homemade wheel weights) and now the blade pulls like crazy and the tractor tracks straight. Based on the amount of use I've gotten out of the blade, I'm about ready to upgrade and buy a heavier duty blade mostly for the angling feature. I'm tired of having to adjust the linkage to tilt the blade. 5' is really about the limits for traction on the 4100.






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 06-12-2001, 20:26 Post: 29219
Don M



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 Rear blade and plow sizes

I have a 755 hydro, which is functionally similar to the 4100 hyrdro in terms of pulling implements. Same HP and close in size. I have a 5 foot blade and it handles it easily. That is considered the right size, but some guys use a 6 foot blade successfully, especially on lighter materials.

-Don M






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 06-13-2001, 09:23 Post: 29228
Murf

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 Rear blade and plow sizes


Terry, maybe I'm confused but by my undestanding you want to use the plow so that you can bring the clay to the surface? This is certainly not the conventional way of dealing with clay. You are 100% correct in that a clay belt below surface will prevent (or at least slow) drainage of the surface layer, however I don't think you want the clay on surface either. I would try a few passes with a cultivator the slit the clay and introduce some soil into the clay and lighten it up. But then I'm only a ninth generation farmer, I still have a lot to learn, Laughing out loud. Best of luck.






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 06-13-2001, 11:35 Post: 29235
Terry Senay



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 Rear blade and plow sizes

Murf.... No, I do not want to turn the clay over entirely. Yes, I want to scarify it and also begin to break it up to get deeper tillage. The original soil had a lot of clay near the surface and I have worked enough organics to get the depth down another 4"-5". This has been over the past 5 or 6 years using a Troy Built tiller. Now that I have a tractor, I want to go as deep as I can. This will take some time. I've even considered trucking in some top soil to built up the surface. But I would rather try to till in some organics and let good ol' mother nature take over. Thank you for responding. :>) I threw out the question to get answers from people with experience.






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 06-14-2001, 09:32 Post: 29262
Murf

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 Rear blade and plow sizes

Terry if that is your goal then yes, you are on the right track, pentrating the clay belt with lighter material is the way to go. However, IMHO, the plow is the last method I would use. It will take FAR more horsepower, and take a LOT more passes to accomplish the task than a cultivator would. Depending on the tires you have on your 4100, you could probably pull a 5' cultivator (and with 2 or 3 passes) get it to a depth of 18" without too much problem at all. The area around here is one of the most prolific Market Gardening areas in North America (the Holland Marsh, Ontario, Canada) and this is how they all do it. A cultivator shank only takes about 10% of the power to pull that a mouldboard does, therefore you can pull 10 tines instead of one plow, so you do 10 times more work in one pass. Best of luck.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Implements Forum

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