Stuck Clutch or Bad Clutch : Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild  -- Tractor Maintenance Discussion Forum and Review Stuck Clutch or Bad Clutch : Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild -- Tractor Maintenance Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild Forum

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 07-05-2004, 23:10 Post: 90162
ereilly



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 Stuck Clutch or Bad Clutch

The clutch pedal on my AC 5020 4WD depresses very easily and appears to not be making contact with anything inside the engine. The clutch linkage is all functional. Adjustment is fine. I can only get it into creeper gear, other wise too much gear chatter. Tractor was in use the previous two days including using the PTO. Everything was normal. How can I tell if it is a frozen clutch or if I need a bearing or throwout replacement? This is a simple tractor - all mechanical - no hydro or assist. Any ideas? Thanks






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 07-06-2004, 05:43 Post: 90167
Art White



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 Stuck Clutch or Bad Clutch

COld the clutch just be shot? The tractor is far being new and not knowing it's history I'd say it woould be rare for one to freeze up in a couple of days of idle time.






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 07-06-2004, 05:45 Post: 90168
hardwood

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 Stuck Clutch or Bad Clutch

ERielley, I don't know much about AC tractors, but if it is an ordinary dry plate clutch your statment that the clutch pedal pushes easily and doesn't seem to cantact anything sounds like a throwout bearing that's out to the point that the balls have fallen out and let the contact race fall back so that the contact race cannot or barely reaches the clutch release fingers. I've in the past had the woodruff key that is on the shaft that the throwout bearing yolk is mounted on fall out so that the shaft rotates in the yolk and doesn't push the fingers when you push the pedal, so that is something else to check. Replacing a throwout bearing on a simple dry clutch is pretty straight forward and not real expensive other than labor. Again guessing because I'm not that familliar with AC, the tractor will have to be split at the flywheel housing for access. There can be lots of reasons for a stuck clutch from worn transmission shaft splines to a frozen pilot bearing, but yours doesn't sound like that. Hope this helps. Frank.






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 07-06-2004, 07:09 Post: 90176
TomG

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 Stuck Clutch or Bad Clutch

I can't see a clutch disk rusting to the flywheel and pressure plate is several days either. Besides, that condition should still have a normal pedal feel. Conceivably there could be an obstruction that is preventing the throw out bearing from sliding on the pilot shaft but then the pedal range of travel would be less. I would ensure that the shaft going into the cases actually rotates when the pedal is depressed. Collars with broken pins that slip around shafts aren't always apparent.

It'd be good if the tractor has a removable splash pan. Then you could see what's going on and maybe even fix a linkage problem. Unless inspection is possible a split is likely required. In that case them main reason for belabouring a diagnosis would be to have parts on hand. Wish I could make a more positive comment.






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 07-06-2004, 08:17 Post: 90189
ereilly



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 Stuck Clutch or Bad Clutch

My original thought was that it was a throwout bearing. I read a couple posts on this board about stuck clutches even when people had been using the tractors and hoped I would not have to open up the innards of the tractor. I already priced the parts. $210 for pressure disk, throwout and pilot bearing. I have never done a clutch repair in a car. It looks like I would have to remove the engine as the whole things needs to come apart to get access. Any other suggestions or websites that might prep me for doing this job? Thanks a lot for the help






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 07-06-2004, 08:32 Post: 90191
Murf

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 Stuck Clutch or Bad Clutch

A little prep. time will pay off big time when you are looking at splitting a tractor.

We use a 'splitting frame' to do it, it is basically a small short piece of railroad track made from 1.5" steel pipe. Block the rear half in place and support it with jack-stands, we have a tiedown of chain cemented in the shop floor we chain the drawbar to. Then there is a wheeled jack-stand that holds up the back of the engine and allows the engine to roll forward on the track and it's front wheels.

It makes splitting, and most importantly, re-assembly so simple, just put a come-along between the two pieces and crank.

Best of luck.






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 07-06-2004, 19:26 Post: 90239
TomG

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 Stuck Clutch or Bad Clutch

It'd be good to check the ring gear and the flywheel face as long as it's split. Flywheels sometimes need to be turned. If the shift is sloppy or it pops out of gear some TX attention might also be good.






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 07-06-2004, 23:35 Post: 90251
ereilly



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 Stuck Clutch or Bad Clutch

I was considering buying an Intertec brand shop manual for this tractor prior to 'splitting' it. Anyone have any comments on the quality of these aftermarket manuals?






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 07-07-2004, 07:17 Post: 90260
TomG

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Factory mnanuals are generally better if available. I haven't seen an Intertec manual but some people get by with them OK. I have heard several stories of inaccurate or missing specific procedures that have resulted in problems and some don't have wiring diagrams.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild Forum

Thread 90162 Filter by Poster:
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