HELP hot hst fluids in B2710: Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild  -- Tractor Maintenance Discussion Forum and Review HELP hot hst fluids in B2710: Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild -- Tractor Maintenance Discussion Forum

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 07-04-2002, 10:23 Post: 40048
kiwidog



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 HELP hot hst fluids in B2710

I have a kubota B2710 with just over 300 hours on the meter.
I just changed out all fluids and filters and put in kubota super UDT as the book say to.
Last week I had to replace a small sleeve at the end of the detent on the loader valve as it was feeling rough and sticky and I found that waterhad got in and caused some minor corrosion.
It was a $10 part that unfortunatly comes with a $100 rebuild kit!

Now my hydraulic fluid,trannie case, and all the hst fluid passes through gets extremely ho in about 10 to 15 minutes.

I double checked all my hoses to be sure they were routed to the right ports and also checked and re-assembled the loader. All this was correct so it seems to me there is a restriction of fluid somewhere.
I then capped off the hoses and took the loader detent out of the system and the fluid and trannie case gets hot again but take a little longer.

The previous owner had a young son so I was not suprised to find some metal shavings in the oil strainers
but not all that many to be concerned about at the time.
Maybe this was the reason he was selling the tractor,although its run like a champ up to this time.

Any ideas or suggestions what to do or test next would be greatly appreciated.






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 07-05-2002, 05:48 Post: 40056
TomG

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 HELP hot hst fluids in B2710

It sounds like an obstruction. You didn't say if a relief valve can be heard or if the oil both hot and frothy. Id check to verify that the 3ph isn't in lift mode. By loader detent, I guess that's the detant for float on the loader lift control valve.

I imagine the tractor has a diverter valve and the valve could be placed in the remote position. In remote, the loader would be completely out of the hydraulic system. The tractor then could be run long enough to see if the oil still gets hot. It probably won't, but at least the test would eliminate problems such as a bad pump, obstructed high pressure or suction lines.

More guesses on my part, but I guess the loader valve assembly is a power beyond type (with two return lines). If so, a curious sort of test could be done (I'm just making this up, but it should work). A hose could be rigged up that connects both cylinder lines together on the first control valve in the assembly (the one next to the inlet section). The tractor could be run with that control valve held open to see if the oil still heats. The test should route return oil through the tank return line rather than the PB line. If the oil didn't get hot, then the problem likely is in the valve assembly behind the first valve or the PB line.

It might be handy to take a pressure test of the open system. When no control valve is active there should be low pressure at the valve inlet section. From the description, Id guess the pressures are higher due to an obstruction, but if a gauge and t-fitting were handy, I might check the pressure.






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 07-05-2002, 10:54 Post: 40070
Art White



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 HELP hot hst fluids in B2710

Not knowing exactly what hoses you had removed or what you did, there might just be a hose that didn't get connected to the right one and is now causing your problem. Check it over again, if the engine is also laboring that would tell you that you have the hydraulic lines to the valve are installed wrong.






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 07-05-2002, 13:42 Post: 40072
Murf

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 HELP hot hst fluids in B2710

As Tom so correctly (as he usually is) stated, the only reason for heat is as a by-product of work, usually either from trying to get past an obstruction, or from forcing open a relief valve. If this was happening before, and is still happening now, putting the hoses back as they were before may not necessarily mean they are correct now, they may have been connected wrong before. My suggestion would be to make notes of what hose go where, how the ports at each end of a hose are labelled, etc., and either ask a dealer (tractor or hydraulics shop) or get a manual and slowly, carefully & methodically go through each lines connections, disregarding where they are now, and concentrating on where they SHOULD be. Best of luck.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Engine Repair Rebuild Forum

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