Bucket Maint : Back Hoe  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review Bucket Maint : Back Hoe -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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 01-29-2013, 13:00 Post: 186082
skipll



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 Bucket Maint

Can someone explain about the covers/caps/extenders on my bucket teeth----what are the there for---do I need them on all the time--------so far I have lost 2. So Sad






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 01-29-2013, 13:45 Post: 186083
Murf



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 Bucket Maint

Skip, first off you need to get the term right, they are teeth.

Do you need them?

To put it in easier terms, picture a carbide circular saw blade without the carbide tips......

They are there to a) make biting into hard packed soil easier by presenting a much smaller surface, sort of like a chisel, and b) give you an easily replaceable wear point instead of wearing down the bucket edge itself.

BTW, the are designed to be pushed on tighter when digging normally, however, if you plant the bucket teeth against dirt or something and then slide the bucket away from you the teeth will come off easily.


Best of luck.






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 01-29-2013, 23:06 Post: 186090
magnum1990



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I have recently seen bucket "teeth" that were mounted on an aftermarket tooth bar that had a "cap" or crown covering a solid, rectangular bar stock tooth. The cap was held in place with a roller pin that had to be drifted out in order to remove the cap. The cap was relatively thin steel. The cap was sharp while the bar stock tooth stub was dull. I think you were on the right track Murf, the tooth "caps " are the parts that need to be kept sharp. After a few sharpenings, they are meant to be removed and replaced new for a relatively low cost. The old method was to sharpen the bar stock tooth. Unfortunately, when these wore down, the only option was to break out the plasma cutter, remove the blunt tooth, and weld in a replacement. The new method allows for easy, quick, cheap replacement. Running the bucket without these "caps" if it was designed to use them, would eventually render the teeth useless. I noticed this set-up at the quarry a few weeks back, and asked the operator about it. He said they used to break the solid teeth once or twice a week. Each time, two hours downtime. Now, they just keep spare "caps" and roller pins onboard. When they need to replace, two minutes.






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 02-26-2013, 11:31 Post: 186294
skipll



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Bout 3 weeks ago I lost one of my bucket teeth. I put another one on but it does not exactly match the othe Two. The teeth on it now are made of thin steel ( the sides 4.62mm---the bottom 13.68mm. Yesterday I went down to where I was digging with a metal detecter----I found it though it is no longer useable.
So now am thinkin bout relacing with all new teeth. But I am having trouble finding some place to get them from ( been searching the net---getting nowhere). Anyone out there know of a good site for new teeth for a Kobelco SK015 to get some new teeth? Is there a way to measure teeth? Do they come in certain numbered sizes
Also a local told me about useing lock nuts & bolts to atach the teeth---Any thoughts on this?





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 02-26-2013, 13:54 Post: 186299
magnum1990



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Hi SKIPll ! Sorry to hear about your breakage. I have never had a Kobelco so I have no direct experience with your set-up. That being said, I have many friends in the excavating and landscaping business. They have all agreed that the thickness of the steel "tooth caps" has significantly diminished in the past few years. A fleet equipment mechanic told me that he thought the rational behind this other than cost savings is that thin steel capps will tear off when the operator hooks bedrock, thus preserving the "tooth stub". Replacing the cap is much easier than torching or plasma cutting off a broken welded-on, solid tooth. That being said, you need to have replacement tooth caps on hand as normal use will eventually wear down the tooth caps which are designed to fail before the tooth stub. As far as a source for Kobelco, I would start with the dealer. If you can not locate OEM parts, consider replacing all of the tooth caps with the ones you were able to locate. Operating the bucket with mismatched teeth can put extra stress on the original, or longer tooth caps, causing them to fail prematurely. Lastly, be VERY CAREFUL about replacing the original attaching hardware with bolts and nuts. Most caps are held on with roll pins which really act as shear pins. They are designed to fail at lower pressure than the tooth stub. If you use too high of a grade of bolt steel, you will defeat the purpose of the tooth caps and find yourself with a broken tooth stub that would require you to torch off and weld on anew or buy a new bucket!! Good luck.






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 02-26-2013, 16:13 Post: 186301
skipll



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Thanks for your replies---
Today while in a fast food place I saw a fellow from one of our auto parts stores--So I asked him if he had any bucket teeth---he said he did have a few. So I went there & bought one for a test---sure enough it was the rite size---Goin bak tomorrow to buy 3 more ( all he has). At $10 each it will be good to have a spare one.

I will note your reply bout the bolts [/b]Mag 1990[/b]-
-
---I will try to keep a eye on the teeth to see as soon as possable one is missing!

BTW
Two days ago I went to another auto store but I didn't like what I saw there---The price-($25 each of some sizes---but not my size )--& I hardly ever deal there.






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 02-26-2013, 21:32 Post: 186304
magnum1990



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Good deal Skipll! I am glad you found some that fit. Yea, the price discrepancies can be tremendous from store to store. The price of steel has risen so much in the past few years! Don't be surprised if your new teeth wear in less time than the originals. Most modern steel is being made with a higher carbon content in order to reduce the cost of inputs thus lowering production costs. FYI, consider putting BLUE Loc-Tite on the roll pins for the new tooth caps. This will not alter the shear rating of the pin, but it should help by keeping the pin from "wiggling out" of the mounting hole. When you need to remove the pin, the BLUE Loc-Tite is much easier to remove than the Red Loc-Tite. Good luck. Try not to hook bedrock at full pull strength! Smile






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 03-08-2013, 10:51 Post: 186342
skipll



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OK---I now have the new caps & roller pins & loctite---

NOW THEN--is there a correct method to installing the new roller pins along with the new teeth caps? ( I have Googled/youtube but I did not find wat I was lookin for)






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 03-08-2013, 16:33 Post: 186343
magnum1990



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Hi Skip ! Iam glad that you were able to find all of your parts! I don't know if there is a "right way" to put in roller pins. What I learned, and has always worked for me, is to not damage the pin by whaling on it with a steel sledge. The object of installation is to minimize damage. It helps to have a third hand. What I do is: line up all the wholes, sometimes it helps to put a wooden dowel thru to hold it all in place, using a pair of beefy pliers, squeeze the roller pin JUST ENOUGH to allow you to tap/persuade the pin into the mounting holes. As the pin goes in, it will push the wood dowel out the other side. If you have one, a brass hammer, or a nylon-head hammer will help to not damage the end of the roller pin. If you do not have these, a piece of scrap wood can work put between the pin and hammer. A couple of times, I've drilled a hole in the scrap wood just big enough to snugly hold the roll pin. This worked great for me. Any way you get it done, it helps a lot to have someone else holding one of the parts or hammering. Wink yeah right Don't forget to liberally apply the loc-tite right before you set the pin. In fact, in its liquid form, loc-tite will act as a lubricant to help the roll pin get hammered into place. They do make a roll pin tool, but its not inexpensive and you probably won't find a need to use it again until the next time you change out your tooth caps.
Hey guys, if anyone knows another way, please post. What I wrote above works for me but, if there is a better way, I'd like to know as well. Good luck Skip! Let us know how it went.






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 03-08-2013, 16:36 Post: 186344
magnum1990



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PS--- Sometimes, one end of the roll pin will have a tapered edge. That is the end that goes in the hole. The opposite end should be flat. Do not make the mistake of hammering the tapered end, if it has one.






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