Grader Blade on Asphalt Drive : Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review Grader Blade on Asphalt Drive : Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal Forum

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 10-06-2004, 07:43 Post: 97767
BobBryant
2004-10-06 07:43:50
Post: 97767
 Grader Blade on Asphalt Drive

I just got a Kubota B7610 with a Woods RB72 grader blade and I am wondering if using the grader blade to clear snow off my asphalt driveway will mark it up worse than the occasionally tire chain mark I got from my garden tractor last year. The drive has sealer on it and I don't know if that means it will mark up more or not. I definitely want to make sure I don't remove any of the asphalt let alone sealer.

How do I set up the blade to be least agressive? Would skid shoes be helpful, or are they uneccessary?






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 10-06-2004, 09:14 Post: 97775
DRankin



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 Grader Blade on Asphalt Drive

Skid shoes are a "must have" item.






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 10-06-2004, 09:31 Post: 97777
dsg

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 Grader Blade on Asphalt Drive

I think it Depends on where you live. Here in Maine it gets cold enough so you don't have to have shoes on your plow. I have an asphalt and concrete dive and haven't yet done any damage plowing without shoes and I plow with an 8' fisher on my Dodge which is much heavier than your rear blade. I did do some damage with the Box Blade scraping Ice off the asphalt, I had it set too aggressive.

David






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 10-06-2004, 09:39 Post: 97778
BobBryant
2004-10-06 00:00:00
Post: 97778
 Grader Blade on Asphalt Drive

Ok how do I set the blade to be less agressive for snow ?

Option 1
o==0-\

Option 2
o==0-/






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 10-06-2004, 09:40 Post: 97779
BobBryant
2004-10-06 00:00:00
Post: 97779
 Grader Blade on Asphalt Drive

Assuming I am driving forward






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 10-06-2004, 10:09 Post: 97781
dsg

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 Grader Blade on Asphalt Drive

I would use Option 1, but I'm no expert. Maybe Murf could chime in, I think he has had a lot of experience in is area.

David






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 10-06-2004, 10:35 Post: 97784
DRankin



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 Grader Blade on Asphalt Drive

Plows mounted to pick-ups have some lateral "float" built into them.

A box scraper or a rear blade on a tractor is generally mounted in a very rigid fashion. The result is that when you encounter a small change in the grade on your driveway the corner of the blade will gouge. No big deal on a gravel surface, but pretty destructive on concrete and asphalt.

Some rear blades can be modified to float laterally by blocking a locking pin open but there is little you can do with a box scraper.






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 10-06-2004, 10:41 Post: 97785
Murf



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 Grader Blade on Asphalt Drive

Unfortunately I have WAY too much experience with clearing snow.........

In option 1, depnding on the snow, and the exact angle of the blade, the snow may tend to lift the blade so it will be exerting less force on the driveway. However, it may not fully clear the driveway either, so you may need to make many more passes.

In option 2, it may exert more force, but clean better in the first pass, meaning less damage in the end.

The biggest hazard with using a rear blade for snow, is there is no spring release mechanism. A true snow-plow has a spring-loaded trip edge of some form, if you hit something the spring allows the balde to roll over the obstacle. A rear blade is fixed and rigid, if you hit something hard, the blade may be damaged, the obstacle may be damaged, and the tractor may stop or skid suddenly, read "ouch", or all three, read BIG "ouch".

If you are concerned about the appearance of the driveway that much I would suggest the following practice which has worked for us VERY well for many years.

Get a piece of rubber conveyor belting, or REALLY heavy mudflap from a transport truck, conveyor is the better choice. Cut a strip about 4" wide and the length of the blade, 5' or whatever. Obtain either some big heavy washers, or a strip of heavy steel flat-bar. Drill holes in the rubber, and flat-bar to match the bolts that hold the cutting edge on your blade. Make sure the holes leave an inch or so of rubber BELOW the cutting edge.

This basically transforms your rear blade into a 3pth squeegie. The rubber will contact the driveway instead of the steel cutting edge and you will not leave any marks at all. This works quite well at removing slush as well.

If you can get enough conveyor belting to cover the entire blade, and an extra foot or so each side, it can be used either as 'wings' to widen the plowed width or folded forward 90 degrees and chained in place to convert it into a scoop or box blade like plow. This makes it hold a LOT more snow.

Best of luck.






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 10-11-2004, 17:05 Post: 98117
earthwrks

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 Grader Blade on Asphalt Drive

Maybe it is a given, but what about turning the blade around and pushing in reverse to prevent the tires from packing down the snow? It would take a few trials to get the right angle-of-attack, and possibly some added weight to the blade depending on the type of snow.

For preventing damage such as scratches in the pavement, consider using a flexible cutting edge such as natural rubber (from an old conveyor belt, or an out-stretched car tire tread) or the more durable "cast urethane" which is used on severe-duty snow plows. A 7' piece of urethane is pricey--$300 plus. You can use the existing cutting edge and longer bolts to secure the rubber cutting edge.






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