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DennisCTB
Join Date: Nov 1998
Posts: 2707 NorthWest NJ
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2011-10-12          180832

It is mid fall already, So let's take a look at what you well be uising to clear that snow that will be coming shortly.

First I will be using my BX2750 Blower:

It is mid fall already,  So let's take a look at what you well be uising to clear that snow that will be coming shortly.<br>
<br>
First I will be using my BX2750 Blower:<br>
<br>
<a href=It is mid fall already,  So let's take a look at what you well be uising to clear that snow that will be coming shortly.<br>
<br>
First I will be using my BX2750 Blower:<br>
<br>
<a href=It is mid fall already,  So let's take a look at what you well be uising to clear that snow that will be coming shortly.<br>
<br>
First I will be using my BX2750 Blower:<br>
<br>
[p]http://tractorpoint.com/ctb/memberPhotos/dennisctb22.jpg[/p]<br>
<br>
Then I'll use the rear 72" Landpride to scrape up what it misses.<br>
<br>
[p]http://tractorpoint.com/ctb/memberPhotos/dennisctb4.jpg[/p]<br>
<br>
For those who don't get snow you just won't get much saddle time this winter :(

Then I'll use the rear 72" Landpride to scrape up what it misses.

[p]http://tractorpoint.com/ctb/memberPhotos/dennisctb4.jpg[/p]

For those who don't get snow you just won't get much saddle time this winter :(" src="https://tractorpoint.com/ctb/memberPhotos/dennisctb22.jpg" >

Then I'll use the rear 72" Landpride to scrape up what it misses.

[p]http://tractorpoint.com/ctb/memberPhotos/dennisctb4.jpg[/p]

For those who don't get snow you just won't get much saddle time this winter :(" src="https://tractorpoint.com/ctb/memberPhotos/dennisctb22.jpg" >

Then I'll use the rear 72" Landpride to scrape up what it misses.

[p]http://tractorpoint.com/ctb/memberPhotos/dennisctb4.jpg[/p]

For those who don't get snow you just won't get much saddle time this winter :(


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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2011-10-13          180842

I can see you wincing every time you hear a rock deflorating the paint on your blower!

On the Woods, is that an adjustable "foot" that keeps the end of the blade from digging in? Was thinking of getting one. Does it work OK? Can you still push in reverse? ....

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DennisCTB
Join Date: Nov 1998
Posts: 2707 NorthWest NJ
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2011-10-13          180870

Quote:
Originally Posted by auerbach | view 180842
I can see you wincing every time you hear a rock deflorating the paint on your blower!On the Woods, is that an adjustable "foot" that keeps the end of the blade from digging in? Was thinking of getting one. Does it work OK? Can you still push in reverse?


Auerbach,

You are now the Poet Laureate of TP! Deflorated it is ...
LOL

That pix was taken when the tractor and blower and blade were brand new 7 years ago. Actually the paint in the auger was completely gone this year, and for the first time I did spray paint it quickly with Chevy Engine Enamel which is a near perfect match.

Those adjustable feet I bought over the phone from the dealer, had I seen them I would not have bought them. I thought they would be more like the ones on a snow blade so I could use them on the drive with a skid bottom that would slide and hold the blade afraction of and inch above the surface. The feet are actually like very heavy inverted mushrooms. They are terrible on a paved drive for snow, and can etch the driveway.

I have tried them for grading dirt with the quarter inching valve on the B7610. I did not like them for that either. I just smooth stuff by dragging the grader blade with the concave faced away from the tractor, suboptimal but works. So they have been bookends for me :(

They might be good on a frozen gravel drive which I don't have.

....

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2011-10-14          180877

Well, they'd make appropriate bookends for heavy reading.

For dirt-grading, don't the mushrooms lift out easily?

For snow work, could you not replace one or both with a foot-type that fits the same mount? But would not a foot-type also etch a paved drive? The marks they make: is that what makes them terrible?

Here's why I ask. I push snow on my crowned gravel drive with one side of the blade lower than the other. Often, when the tractor is tilted because it's riding on a previouly-left snow shoulder, the lower blade corner gouges the drive.

I bought a mushroom for the lower side but haven't installed it. Do you not think it would solve the gouging problem? (Alternately, I could change the blade level on the fly, but that requires frequent cranking.)

I also do a sidewalk, and wouldn't want to etch it, so from your experience I'd have to raise the mushroom out of contact. (Mine comes with a drove of washers, whose placement determines the mushroom up/down.)

I can't turn my blade 180 but often push snow backward. I did change the mount to permit a more extreme angle, maybe 45 degrees. That way it pushes more sideways rather than pulls the snow along, and when adjusted makes a path identical to the tractor track (so if the tractor makes it though a narrow spot I know the blade won't snag anything). And I weighted it (not having power-down). If anyone's interested I'll try to post photos as you did. ....

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DennisCTB
Join Date: Nov 1998
Posts: 2707 NorthWest NJ
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2011-11-18          181258

Quote:
Originally Posted by auerbach | view 180877
....For dirt-grading, don't the mushrooms lift out easily? For snow work, could you not replace one or both with a foot-type that fits the same mount? But would not a foot-type also etch a paved drive? The marks they make: is that what makes them terrible?Here's why I ask. I push snow on my crowned gravel drive with one side of the blade lower than the other. Often, when the tractor is tilted because it's riding on a previouly-left snow shoulder, the lower blade corner gouges the drive. I bought a mushroom for the lower side but haven't installed it. Do you not think it would solve the gouging problem? (Alternately, I could change the blade level on the fly, but that requires frequent cranking.)I also do a sidewalk, and wouldn't want to etch it, so from your experience I'd have to raise the mushroom out of contact. (Mine comes with a drove of washers, whose placement determines the mushroom up/down.)I can't turn my blade 180 but often push snow backward. I did change the mount to permit a more extreme angle, maybe 45 degrees. That way it pushes more sideways rather than pulls the snow along, and when adjusted makes a path identical to the tractor track (so if the tractor makes it though a narrow spot I know the blade won't snag anything). And I weighted it (not having power-down). If anyone's interested I'll try to post photos as you did.


Hi,

Sorry for the slow response. As you can see in the photo on the Woods blade the mount is angled. I suppose this is to force the blade to ride on half of the mushroom bottom.

I fiddled with the washers and angle of the blade, I felt the angle of the bracket on the blade made it even worse for me. I was unable to set it so that it would be any benefit on a paved drive, or even grading dirt for that matter.

I found that after using the blade on a paved drive for years, the original sharp edge of the blade got worn and dull so that it did not scratch the drive very much, so I have my book ends :)

I think it was EW that recommended letting the blade float by pulling the pin on the blade, I used to do that on occasion as well, but have not done so since the blade is so nice and dull. ....

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2011-11-18          181265

Hmm. Meanwhile, I wish I knew the proper terms to differentiate between the angle obtained by (a) unlocking, pulling one side foreward and the other side aft, and locking the position, and (b) raising say the left side and lowering the right, by adjusting the hitch arms (for which I have a crank that changes the length of one vertical lift-arm). That is, (a) is measured from above the rig, (b) would be measured from behind it.

Anybody tried a coat of slip-paint (forgot the right name but often has graphite in it and is used to let seeds flow or prevent buildup on the underside of mower decks) to induce snow to slip along and off the blade instead of just being pulled along by it? ....

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hardwood
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 3583 iowa
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2011-11-19          181274

I don't have anything special for snow removal equipment, a 4310 Deere with a 430 loader/72 inch bucket and a Land Pride landscape rake. I used to have a rear blade that I bought for dirt work, that was a joke unless the soil was fresh worked ahead. I traded the blade for a Landpride landscape rake, again it won't move any soil that isn't pre loosened but a great tool for leveling fresh dumped crushed rock. It works just as well as a blade for snow except for ice but then a blade is pretty much worthless there too.

Best I've found for tearinmg up ice is a box blade. Lower the scarifying teeth in your box blade to a couple inches below the blade. go slow and stay off your nice blacktop drives, it works for gravel drives the best. It will jerk, yank, bang, and crash, but it will do a pretty good job on the ice after two or three passes.

I purposely don't use tire chains in snow work, the bare tread tires are my "Slip clutch" so tp speak for when I hit something. So long as I have a loader with a hydraulic bucket I have so far always been able to get myself out of a stuck position using the bucket to push myself out.

I think I've probably said this fifteen times if I've said it once that to me a front loader and a rear snowblower on the same tractor is my dream machine. I used to have that setup in a much larger form but sold it with the farm, what a dumb trick that was!! Mrs. won't let me buy one back now, says I'm too old.
Frank. ....

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2011-11-22          181309

I wish somebody would answer my questions two posts above. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2011-11-22          181310

Quote:
Originally Posted by auerbach | view 181265
Hmm. Meanwhile, I wish I knew the proper terms to differentiate between the angle obtained by (a) unlocking, pulling one side foreward and the other side aft, and locking the position, and (b) raising say the left side and lowering the right, by adjusting the hitch arms (for which I have a crank that changes the length of one vertical lift-arm). That is, (a) is measured from above the rig, (b) would be measured from behind it.


Sorry neighbour, I missed your questions.

These following terms are pretty much industry standard as used with a bulldozer or road grader blade.

A) is just called 'rotation' or sometimes 'cutting angle',

B) is usually called "blade tip" but sometimes "pitch".

There is one further term that you sometimes come across too but you haven't listed and that is "offset" or "slew". That is when (depending on your blades construction) you either slide the mouldboard sideways relative to the rest of the frame, or pull a pin near the 3PTH and slide the arm that goes back to the blade over sideways. This is used when you want to put the blade out beyond the rear wheels to bring material up out of a ditch for instance.

As an example, if you look at the blade below, you can see that by adjusting the black link between the blade and hitch you can adjust the angle between the hitch itself and that arm, doing so pushes the blade out to either left or right side.


Best of luck.


....

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bshoesey
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2 erie pa
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2013-01-26          186060

Upgraded my snow removal equipment this season. Traded up from my 16 year old Steiner 410 to a 440 diesel. Snow equipment includes a 60" power angle blade, 48" snow blower and my recently refurbed 48" sidewalk vee plow. Bill ....

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