Harrow Theory : Tillers and Ploughs  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review Harrow Theory : Tillers and Ploughs -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tillers and Ploughs Forum

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 01-29-2004, 16:05 Post: 75407
grinder

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 Harrow Theory

I bought an old double disc harrow. 54" wide, one set of notched cutters and one smooth. They both angle left or right.
I have never used a set of these and hope to smooth up some rough ground without buying a lot of loam.
Wondering if someone could explain the best way to use these
and which end do I build the hitch on, rough or smooth?
The 3pth is missing.






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 01-29-2004, 16:53 Post: 75409
harvey



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 Harrow Theory

Grinder you'll probably get the best results if you hook on the rough end. The rough or ripple cutters were designed to cut up sod soil and the ripple acts as traction to keep the cutters turning.

if you are on virgin ground, not plowed, you will have to add lots of weight to get some action. But start light and add as necessary to get as deep as you need to then you'll have to start taking some off as the ground loosens.

BTW these are calls disks, harrows have spring teeth and you drag them around.

Good luck Harvey






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 01-30-2004, 04:55 Post: 75441
grinder

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 Harrow Theory

Harvey
What about the angle ?in or out, does it make a difference?
they must be at least 350-400lbs. greasable bearings, pretty
heavy duty.






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 01-30-2004, 04:55 Post: 75442
grinder

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 Harrow Theory

Harvey
What about the angle ?in or out, does it make a difference?
they must be at least 350-400lbs. greasable bearings, pretty
heavy duty.






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 01-30-2004, 06:32 Post: 75445
TomG

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 Harrow Theory

Harvey likely will have a better answer. Far as I know the angle adjusts the amount of cut as well as how much the soil is worked. With little angle the disks just slice through the ground without moving it around. An angle lets the disks cut a layer and furrow it a bit. I think a fairly common practice is to angle it one way for the front or rough cut and back the other way with the other set of disks.

The amount of hp and traction needed increases as the angle is increased and in general disking is considered heavy draft work. Some experience will indicate if the angles are limited by your tractor's hp and traction. If it's new ground there might not be enough power to set any angle on the front discs for the first pass.

I think as Harvey said the main control of depth is how much weight they carry. If the ground has softer areas holding position control might help to keep the depth more constant, although too much position control and the disc may be pulled up when cresting any hills. If position control is used it might be an actual use for the adjustable stop on the quadrant lever. Setting the stop allows the same position to be set if the disc is lifted to turn around at the end of rows.






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 01-30-2004, 06:41 Post: 75446
kubotaguy



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 Harrow Theory

I used a disc similar to this when I was grooming a lot I used to own. I used the top link to angle the front in the ground to cut in better.
Just a couple of things I learned while doing this. When you get to the end of the lot, pick up the disc and then turn the tractor. Do not try to make a circle with the disc in the ground either turning the wheel or using the brakes, this will cause a lot of undue stress on the lower arms and possibly bend them. Also you can over disc the ground, I did. It will make the ground so fine that when you go to drag it, it becomes a mess and especially if it rains.






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 01-30-2004, 06:49 Post: 75448
plots1

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 Harrow Theory

I don't think over disking would be a problem, the finer the dirt the easier it is to work if trying to level area's up. and if your planting something, the finer the better.






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 01-30-2004, 13:19 Post: 75484
yooperpete



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 Harrow Theory

A farmer will tell you the less you drive over it the better. I.E. more trips over the same piece of dirt actually compacts the soil beneath the top layer that you are working. Go over it only as frequently as necessary. It you have clay and work it while it is wet, you will get big lumps of dirt that will not break up. If you are trying to grow crops or a garden, their roots will have trouble penetrating through the compaction particularly when clay is present. The more you work the soil, the more moisture that you will take out of it. You generally need as much moisture as possible for seeds to germinate and for later during summer dryspells.

Sometime next summer, take a crop tour. About mid summer try to find a dry bean or soy bean field. You can actually see the difference in crop height where the tractor wheels have gone through. The beans are generally shorter. With dry beans, just as they rippen, the field will yellow and the rows adjacent to the tire tracks will be greener and slightly behind.

As far as the discing, the previous posts are correct. Usually you will angle the front forward and the rear backward. The notched discs in the front will cut up foilage/vegetation like last years cornstalks.

I would generally recommend to plow virgin grassland and then disc it afterward. Fall plowing, spring discing is best.






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 01-30-2004, 15:30 Post: 75492
plots1

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 Harrow Theory

I guess it all depends on what your planting , clovers and alpha's reccomend to coltapac before spreadind sead and that is actually firmind and packing the dirt. bye the way Yooperpete what kind of plots do you sew for your kritters?






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 01-30-2004, 19:20 Post: 75506
grinder

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 Harrow Theory

I'm going to attempt to smooth out some area's between some
maple tree's who's roots are close to the surface . I thought the disks would roll over any that I might hit.
I'll add loam where needed and drag it out and seed it.(grass) Just want to be able to mow it.
Thanks for the imput!






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tillers and Ploughs Forum

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