Boomer Temperature Gauge 
: New Holland Tractor Review  -- New Holland Tractors Discussion Forum and Review Boomer Temperature Gauge : New Holland Tractor Review -- New Holland Tractors Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > New Holland Tractor Review Forum

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 08-30-1999, 00:00 Post: 7494
Thomas M. Meza



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 Boomer Temperature Gauge

If you have a temperature indicator light and are interested in installing a matching temperature gauge into your existing panel; please contact me for a parts list. I sell an E-Z to install wire harness with in-line electronics and installation instructions. Protect your equipment. This safety feature adds value and pays for itself.






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 09-08-1999, 00:00 Post: 7770
larry



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 Boomer Temperature Gauge

I recently bought a TC29 Boomer.What's the price for your temp gauge and can a non mechanical person install it? I'm not real mechanically inclined.Larry






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 09-09-1999, 00:00 Post: 7818
Thomas M. Meza



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 Boomer Temperature Gauge

Russ:I'm sure you can do it yourself, this operation is over-the-dealer-head, the dealer will only sell you the entire panel for the 1630. You can modify your existing panel using New Holland parts, therefore, protecting your warranty. My tractor is also new and the temperature gauge is a added feature. I can guide you through the operation and at a minimum you can have an electronic repair shop do some incidental soldering for you. The first thing you do is order the gauge and sending unit from New Holland.1) Temperature Gauge # 86540855 (approximately $38.00)2) Temperature Sending Sensor # SBA385720070 (for 1630 about $18.00)Make sure the dealer sells you the right sending sensor; on several occasionsNew Holland shipped the wrong part (these are not stock parts). Twice theyshipped the sensor for the 1725 do to mis-packaging. These parts for the mostpart have not been requested; I've discovered that there is mis-packaginguntil such time that the system is corrected. The sending unit is differentbetween the 25 and 30 series. the sending unit is located just below yourthermostat. If you have access to a 1630 examine the sending unit as comparedto the 1925 sending unit. Understanding the difference between the two willsave some time. The 1925's sending unit is a simple switch. It sends asignal to the instrument panel when the tractor reaches a temperature of 228degrees. This is at the absolute upper end of the tractor normal operatingrange. The 1630's sending unit is a variable resistor sending a constantsignal to the temperature gauge, with an operating range 100 to 221 degrees.Should you near 221 degrees you shut the tractor down and fix the problem.






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 09-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 7915
Thomas



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 Boomer Temperature Gauge

Tommy:If you read this, you found the site. The answer to your question:Does the new temperature sending unit replace the original temperature switch located on the theromsat housing. YES, its that easy. Use no pipe thread putty or thread tape when installing. I'll be setting up a web site with numerous photos that will be of further help. Keep on the look out. Please note that the installion process above applies to all Boomer series tractors.






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 09-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 7918
Tommy Thompson



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 Boomer Temperature Gauge

Thanks Tom! Still another question! How about the installion of the temperature gauge into the dash assembly. Are there any special wiring considerations? Is it apparant how the temperature gauge wiring ties into the dash assembly?






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 09-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 7950
Thomas



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 Boomer Temperature Gauge

It is important to find, at a well supplied hoddy store, copper tubing 3/32 diameter, usually sold in lenghts of 12 inches.The gauge connetion requires 3 studs connectors (the gauge has 4 sockets on its back side, ONLY 3 SOCKETS ARE USED) Cut the tubing into 4 inch long pieces. Insert each stud into the gauge using the outter 3 sockets. Viewing the gauge on its back side with its pre-drilled set screw hole at the bottom to yorr left, the first socket to your right is the ground, the next socket at the bottom outside corner is the sending unit, the socket above the sending socket is the ignition. Let me stop here and await any questions or confirmation of the process thus far. Next time, I'll introduce instrument panel modification, gauge attachment and some minor soldering requirements. If any of you are at this point, that is parts in hand and the panel disconnected from the wire harness, you're 50%done. Please acknowledge this post.






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 09-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 7951
Thomas



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 Boomer Temperature Gauge

Larry: YES you can do this. Should you need any part of the process re-explained, I'll be happy to help you. My 1725 is used very hard, its a loader, backhoe, grader and post hole digger and is used everyday, long hours. The maintenance on the machine is extraordinary, Oils and filters changed every 30 days including 60 day radiator flushes. I was never satisfied not having a temperature gauge, now that the panel has been fitted with one its one of the best things I've done. Its so easy to monitor the engine temperature. I know the tractor a lot better now, and I do take good care of it. Soon I'll be posting some photos. Please stay in touch.






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 09-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 7952
Thomas



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 Boomer Temperature Gauge

It is important to note the temperature switch (located near the thermostat) that you will be removing is connected to the wire harness via a male prong. The new temperature sending unit is connected to the wire harness via a male blade connector. The wire connected to the new sending unit will have to be fitted with the proper connector. I'm sure you can find the female blade at an auto parts or auto electronic shop. My son (electronic student) made an male prong to female blade adaptor that allowed me to keep my original wire connector. I don't think it matters, cut the old connector off and install a high quality, well insulated female blade connector. Remember to use a little dab of silicone into the new connector to wire socket before you crimp it in place.






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 09-14-1999, 00:00 Post: 7960
Tommy Thompson



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Thanks for the additional info on installing the temperature gauge. I ordered the parts yesterday from the New Holland dealer in Beaumont, Tx. He is going to ship the parts directly to my residence. He said they would be here in a few days. I'll get back with you then! Thanks for all the help! Tommy






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 09-15-1999, 00:00 Post: 8020
Thomas



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Tommy:Have you removed the two set screws securing the instument panel to the tractor and have you disconnected the panel from the wire harness? If so, you will now need to do some bench work; this must be a dust-free environment. The tractor will be down for the next few days, if this is a problem, just schedle the next proceedure until such time that the tractor can be idle a few days. These next installation step must not be rushed.Please advise me if you have all the aforementioned parts. In addition you'll need a 12 inch lengh of 22 AWG copper stranded insulated wire (light weight automobile electrical wire) and a soldering iron with a small chisel point, some rosin core solder and a small tube of silicone sealer. Do you have or know someone with general low volt electronic knowledge?At the rear side of the panel remove the small philip screws to separate the lens and gray plastic gauge trim from the main panel housing. Carefully, slide out the gas gauge from the panel (place in a sandwich type plastic bag) Notice the three post connectors. The objective is to install three like post for the temperature gauge. I will explain how this is done once you confirm you have all the tools and parts. Please advise....................You can immediately remove the blank plate in the gray panel trim for the temperature gauge. I used a zip router to establish a rough opening (excerise caution; the trim is ABS plastic, strong but it will crack. This is not a part you can order) you can drill several one inch holes, next start to nibble away at the surrounding plastic using a pair of wire cutters (I have a pair wire cutters that have wide cutting edges that are perpendicular to the handles, like a little jaws, excellant for nibbling away at the plastic. Sorry, I don't know the tool name). Nibble the plastic to as close as you can to the finish edge and file to finish, I used a convex wood file (1 side flat the other side rounded), rat tail file and a emmery fingernail file for the final pass, It finished like a factory cut. I promise, we'll finish up soon.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > New Holland Tractor Review Forum

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larry 1 | Meza 2 | Meza/El Californio 1 | Thomas 5 | Thomas M. Meza 5 | Tommy Thompson 5 |

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