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farm pro 2425 won t start

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donm16
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4 colorado
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2009-12-28          167761

my farm pro 2425 won't start. it cranks over fine and i'm getting fuel at least to the injectors, but won't start.

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farm pro 2425 won t start

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2009-12-28          167762

What color is the exhaust? Have you checked that air cleaner is clean and the intake is not clogged---bees/bird/insect? ....

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farm pro 2425 won t start

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donm16
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4 colorado
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2009-12-28          167773

like gray whitish and air cleaner does look dirty so i took it out and tried. ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2009-12-28          167774

Next, remove the sediment bowl and clean the filter. You may need to prime the system after replacing the bowl (not familar with your machine). It should start aftere that. Is it cold enough where you are that you need glow plugs or starting fluid? ....

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2009-12-29          167775

Quote:
Originally Posted by donm16 | view 167761
my farm pro 2425 won't start. it cranks over fine and i'm getting fuel at least to the injectors, but won't start.
That YangDong engine is a cold blooded beast. This time of year, you need to use BOTH glow plugs AND compression release

//greg// ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2009-12-29          167777

Greg, the compression release...that's more to allow the starter to kick it over easier from the start, right? And a shot of ether isn't a bad thing too, right? ....

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2009-12-29          167778

EXPLANATION OF COMPRESSION RELEASE

Because diesels need much higher compression than gas engines, they're hard to spin. And because the fuel ignites only from sudden compression, they have to spin fast. Add oil and battery that are cold, and guess what.

Engaging the CR (reduces compression to near zero) lets it spin fast easier. After it's been spinning for a second or two, release the CR control, and the momentum of the fast spin should allow compression ignition.

You may need other cold starting aids such as glow plugs, winter-spec fuel, an engine heater (in the block, lower rad hose, or clamped to or shining on the oil pan), and a battery warmer.

To be sardonic, ether can make you forget all your starting problems. ....

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2009-12-29          167779

Yeah, on that engine the compression release is a dash-mounted lever at about 8 o'clock relative to the steering wheel. Turning it 90 degrees in either direction opens the 3 intake valves. It must be held open by hand, or else the intake springs will push the valves shut again. Cold starting that engine is a battle against high compression, thick oil, low oil pressure, cold bearings/seals, stiff starter, et cetera. Obviously, the compression release removes high compression from that equation.

The procedure is to
1. gear shift to Neutral, depress clutch pedal
2. engage/hold compression release
3. turn keyswitch to HEAT, but for no longer than 20 seconds
4. watch ammeter. Depending upon how cold it is, expect to see it indicating between 25 and 30 amps.
5. when needle drops to between 18-14 amps, turn keyswitch to START and move eyes to oil pressure gauge
6. when the needle indicates oil pressure developing, let go of the compression release handle
7. repeat steps 1-6 as required
7. if engine catches but runs rough, turn the keyswitch back to the HEAT position for up to another 20 seconds or until the engine smooths out.

Ether/starting fluid is dangerous in the hands of owners who don't fully understand diesel ignition. If not used correctly and sparingly, premature detonation can and will break connecting rods, maybe even crank shafts. Some say WD40 - being less volatile than ether/starting fluid - is less prone to premature detonation. I prefer to beef up the starting systems, and add oil pan heaters - thus avoiding the necessity to even experiment with spraying anything into the intake.

//greg// ....

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2009-12-29          167786

Adding to Greg's great list, at step 1 set the throttle to full speed. Immediately the engine catches, throttle back to as slow as it will still run. And don't let the clutch up (in neutral) until it's running OK.

I hadn't thought of being able to use the glowplug heater after starting, but why not. ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2009-12-29          167787

On a diesel I'm not convinced that full throttle does any good; none of my stuff starts any quicker that way. In fact, I have better results starting at low to half throttle. Reason being, to my mind, it's the air itself that has to get hot to provide combustion. The more cold fuel in the chamber to my mind just takes more heat. And lubrication may not be as effective if the engine takes off right away. Just my opinion. ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2009-12-29          167788

And the other half of the argument against full throttle starts is cold oil in the hydraulics and the drivetrain needs to be warmed up gradually. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2009-12-29          167791

I had an old farm equipment tell me the best way to start a cold stubborn diesel was with a spray can of warm WD-40 with the throttle set to idle. When it starts to kick on the WD-40 then bring up the throttle.

He claimed it was less likely to flood the engine with unburnt diesel that way.

I'm a big fan of magnetic block heaters too, they're a huge help on engines without any built in heaters. They are also great at heating up the transmission and oil pan.

If you don't have any heater built in, I'd highly recommend the immersion heaters that go in the rad hose, they work really well at circulating the heat.

Best of luck. ....

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2009-12-29          167792

I also cast a negative vote on the full throttle for cold starts. Any starts for that matter. My 45hp direct injection starts with the throttle position at idle, the 35hp starts fine just under 1/4 throttle. Only time I set the throttle higher than that, is when I'm recovering from air in the fuel lines. I set the hand throttle at 50% while I'm bleeding the hardlines.

Only magnetic heater I've used are those little Kat's things. I colored the 200w version useless; not enough heat to get be effective through a cast tractor oil pan, plus too much free air heat loss. Simply inefficient. Rather than waste any money gambling that the 300w version was any better, I cast my lot with the Wolverine peel'n'stick pan heaters. Have had them on 5 tractors now, handier than a pocket on a shirt.

//greg// ....

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