Nortrac NT304C Tractor Fuel Sediment : NorTrac Tractors  -- Chinese Tractors Discussion Forum and Review Nortrac NT304C Tractor Fuel Sediment : NorTrac Tractors -- Chinese Tractors Discussion Forum

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 12-02-2011, 18:46 Post: 181477
sjrogers1



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 Nortrac NT304C Tractor Fuel Sediment

We have a NT304C. Is there a plastic fuel tank available for this tractor? We can see stuff floating in the metal tank. This iis after we have drained and flushed it. We also see stuff floating in the sediment bowl. Can we add an inline filter between the tank and the injecter pump, if so what do you recomend. The tractor will run for a while with a new fuel filter then slow down and quit. Can someone tell me if we can buy a non Northern (chinese) filter?
Steve






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 12-02-2011, 22:57 Post: 181479
richwaugh

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 Nortrac NT304C Tractor Fuel Sediment

You didn't say what year your Nortrac 304 is, but I can tell you that my 2007 Jinma 304 has a steel tank and I've had no problems yet, in spite of the fact I live in the tropics. You may have diesel bugs, also known as HUMbugs, for "hydrocarbon utilizing microbes". These little critters get in diesel fuel and live in the fuel/water interface at the bottom of the tank. They die and make a dark sludge that can clog fuel lines, filters and hoses and also corrode your injector pump. They sell biocides to deal with them, and I suggest you get some and use it. You first need to thoroughly clean and purge the tanks and fuel system.

To properly clean the fuel tank you need to remove it and drain it and clean it with boiling water and some TSP, then dry it thoroughly. The fuel line connection must be removed and the filter screen hidden in it also cleaned as above. Likewise for the fuel petcock and sediment bowl -there is another filter screen hidden in that, too. Then there are the fuel lines themselves. Age, use and diesel bugs can all contribute to make those lines deteriorate and begin shedding bits of rubber - Chinese rubber isn't the best to start with, either. I'd suggest replacing them with US-made hoses suitable for diesel fuel. Ditto for the fuel return line from the injector pump - it isn't under any great pressure so its not tough to replace.

Replace your inline spin-on fuel filter and purge the hoses all the way to the lift pump. I've had no problems with the Chinese filters, but you can find US cross references if you search around. Your choice. Re-assemble the fuel system, refill with fresh fuel and biocide treatment and run the engine for twenty minutes. Of course, you'll have to go through the whole priming and pumping routine to get it to even start...

I don't know of any plastic tanks made specifically for these tractors, but you could probably get a tank for a small travel trailer and make it fit. I sincerely doubt that it is worth the trouble and expense, though. Get yours really clean and deal with all those hidden filter screens and you should be okay.






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 12-03-2011, 07:37 Post: 181481
greg_g



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Diesel bug residue typically looks like gray (sometimes greenish) sludge in the sediment bowl. But you don't usually see them floating IN the tank. If it's in fact a diesel bug infestation, Rich covered that pretty well. But if the stuff is red or brownish flakes, it's paint. I had that happen to the steel tank on my KM454. Removing the tank for an acetone wash is the fast solution, but caught mine early enough to take a less labor-intensive solution. I removed the sediment bowl assembly from the tank, which includes the little in-tank screen Rich mentioned. I removed that screen, then reinstalled the sediment bowl assembly. From that point I merely watched the sediment bowl, dumping it before the pile of paint chips got to 1/2" or so. I also topped up the tank with fuel every time I was done using the tractor for the day. After about a year of this, the sediment bowl eventually stayed clean. Pretty sure keeping the tank as full as possible helped speed up the "self-cleaning" process. At that point, I reinstalled the little in-tank screen, no problems since.

This lazy-man's procedure was effective enough to where I never had any fuel filter, pump, or injector problems. There are by the way, aftermarket fuel filters available at most auto parts stores. Which one you need will however, vary with the engine in your tractor. Respond with the info from your engine data label, someone with the same engine will hopefully respond in kind.

//greg//






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 12-03-2011, 09:00 Post: 181483
auerbach



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 Nortrac NT304C Tractor Fuel Sediment

There are biocides designed for adding to diesel.






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 04-12-2012, 11:07 Post: 183131
sjrogers1



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 Nortrac NT304C Tractor Fuel Sediment

Just now getting back to the tractor. The tractor was bought new either 2005 or 06. Is there an inline filter to put between the sediment bowl and the pump? Will work on the screens next time I'm there.






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 04-12-2012, 13:47 Post: 183132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjrogers1 | view 183131
Is there an inline filter to put between the sediment bowl and the pump?

Well, there's already the spin-on fuel filter canister. Plus at least one of the low pressure fuel lines has an inline screen at the banjo fitting. Added to the in-tank screen and the sediment bowl screen, that already makes 3 screens and a filter. I'm not sure why you think more filtration is necessary. Have you experienced clogged fuel injector tips or something?

I say this because there's no substitute for actually cleaning a contaminated tank. As long as there's crud of any kind in the fuel path, any number of screens and filters will continue to get fouled. Purge the entire fuel system first, then re-evaluate the need for more filtration.

//greg//






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 04-12-2012, 16:43 Post: 183136
richwaugh

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 Nortrac NT304C Tractor Fuel Sediment

You say that the tractor runs a while and then stops - that's a symptom of a clogged fuel system, alright, and you need to address the cause of the clogging at the source as Greg said. Adding another filter will just provide another place to get clogged up and stop the engine.

If the problem stems form either paint flakes or rust from the tank getting in the filter screens, then the only real cure is to pull the tank and really clean it. Remove the tank from the tractor and remove the fittings from the tank, including the fuel level sender. Then block the outlet and partly fill the tank with a 50/50 mixture of acetone and MEK and slosh it around for several minutes and then dump it out through a cloth filter to see what you get. You may need to do this several times. A magnet may give you an indication of whether or not the contaminants are rust. I'd then put the solvent back in the tank along with a pack or two of steel BBs and shake the living beejeezus out of it until exhausted. The BBs will beat loose any remaining scale or paint and then you can rinse the tank a couple of times with fresh solvent or fuel and it should be good to go. I'd give the thing a treatment with biocide just to be safe.

Reassemble the system while cleaning all the screens and replacing any filters you may have. Given the age of the tractor, I wouldn't hesitate to replace any rubber lines that are present - Chinese rubber is known for deteriorating and shedding crud or collapsing. Standard reinforced replacement fuel line will work just fine.






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 04-13-2012, 08:16 Post: 183139
kthompson



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 Nortrac NT304C Tractor Fuel Sediment

It is also possible the issue is not your tank but the tranks the fuel is in before the tractor.






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 04-13-2012, 17:41 Post: 183142
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Originally Posted by kthompson | view 183139
It is also possible the issue is not your tank but the tranks the fuel is in before the tractor.

If the case is biological, it doesn't really matter. The unfortunate truth here is that diesel bugs - or the associated contaminants - move with the fuel. If it comes from a contaminated tank, it will almost without exception contaminate the receiving tank.

//greg//






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 04-28-2012, 09:55 Post: 183381
sjrogers1



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 Nortrac NT304C Tractor Fuel Sediment

Not sure where to buy the MEK, I can find acetone and TSP. What would work better and safer to use? I can also find a couple of packs of BB to dump in. Will also dump in a bioside. If we want to replace the line from the sediment bulb to the primer pump do we need to get that from Northern or can smeone make that for us? Will try and get this fixed in the next couple of weeks. Also need to pull the radiater and have it boiled out as it seems to heat up during use. It didn't used to do that until we blew the head gasket.
Thanks for all the help






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