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TC 33D Blowing Fuses

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Justus
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 179 Justus, Pa.
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2004-06-09          88178

I have a 2002 TC 33D that just recently started blowing a fuse. It's a 10 amp fuse in the fuse panel, second from the bottom. According to the manual, it's for the turn signals but it's obviously for more than that. The first time it happened was a few days ago.
I checked the panel, found the blown fuse and replaced it. All was well until I tried to start it again today. Blew another fuse, along with two more. I put a 15 amp fuse in the slot because I wanted to move the tractor. (I know I'll take some heat for that) When I tried to start it, it seemed like the starter wanted to turn over but wouldn't (It didn't blow the fuse). I turned the key several times and then the starter kicked in and it stared right up. I contacted my dealer who is going to order me another ignition switch. I told them I had read about a problem with the switches and that there was supposed to be a Serviced Bulletin out on them. I'm hoping the ignition switch will be the remedy and that it isn't the starter. It's like I said on here before; I know just enough to get me into trouble. I've read on here about problems with the seat switch and ignition switch. The seat switch seems OK. Any other ideas? I'll let you know if the new ignition switch works as soon as they get it in and I get it installed.


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stevenc
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 190 North Carolina
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2004-06-09          88186

I also installed a 15 amp fuse,because of the same type problem ,,this was a year ago,,all seems well! ....

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Justus
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2004-06-09          88188

I'd still like to know why after 2 years (next month) this is starting to happen. I want to cover all the bases with my dealer before the warranty is up. ....

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Justus
Join Date: Jun 2002
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2004-06-12          88380

If anyone is interested my dealer got me a new ignition switch today. I put it in but it's still blowing the fuse.
I'll talk to the service manager on Monday but at this time I personally think it has something to do with the starter. ....

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oneace
Join Date: Mar 2004
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2004-06-12          88382

I work for a nh dealer and there is a problem with them blowing the fuse that we can not seem to put our finger on. You can go to your auto parts store and ask them for a circuit breaker to replace the fuse. That is what we do and what nh recommends. The breaker plugs right in in place of the fuse. ....

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Justus
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2004-06-13          88403

Thanks Oneace. I could be wrong, and probably am, but I really think that in my own case the starter may have something to do with it. With the 15 amp fuse in place of the 10 amp, you'd have to hear the starter turn over, or attempt to, to know what I'm talking about. There have been times where it just made a >spinning< noise before the starter caught. I'll find out tomorrow what my dealer intends to do about it. Working for New Holland I always look forward to your input, as well as a few others, on here. Thanks again. ....

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oneace
Join Date: Mar 2004
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2004-06-13          88419

Yes in that case it dose sound like you have two problems with your starter. One is it sounds like the solenoid is sticking the second sounds like the Bendix is bad. that is what makes the gear push out and engage the fly wheel. Have you been having allot of damp weather lately? ....

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Justus
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2004-06-13          88422

"Have you been having allot of damp weather lately?"

The mechanic at my dealership asked me the other day if it's been out in the rain? (Same type question) It's garage kept. We've had some wet weather but nothing unusual.
I just went out a while ago to see how it would start and it started but it was a bit sluggish turning over. I'm surprised by all of this because it always started right up without any problem. ....

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oneace
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2004-06-13          88425

It dose not have to be in direct contact with rain. High humidity plays havoc on some starters. They get a little bit of rust inside and they quit working right. Especially if you do not use it often. Here is an example. If you car sits for a few days and it is humid look at your brake rotors. They will have rust starting to form on them this can even happen over night if the conditions are right. The same thing happens to starter and clutches. That is why it is recommended to lock your clutch disengaged if it is going to be idol for a while. Unfortunately there is nothing you can do about the starter. ....

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Justus
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2004-06-15          88593

The dealer picked up my tractor today and brought it back 2 hours later. It was the battery making the fuse blow. They said they didn't know how it started the battery was so bad. Now I learned that a low battery can blow fuses. Luckily, everything is still under warranty. ....

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oneace
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2004-06-15          88615

That my or my not fix the problem. The only time I've seen the fuse blow because of the battery is when the battery is way down and will not even attempt to turn the tractor over. To save your self stock in fuses I would still replace the fuse with a circuit breaker. ....

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Justus
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2004-06-15          88626

Thanks Oneace. I inherited quite a few fuses and they certainly came in handy. I will look into the circuit breaker. I appreciate your input. ....

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chipaz
Join Date: Jul 2004
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2004-07-02          89930

I have had an intermittent problem with the 10 amp fuse popping over the last couple of months. The funny thing was up until now, it only happened when the wife drove the tractor. Today the tractor popped the 10 amp fuse everytime I turned the key. I called the dealer about it and was told they are selling a circuit breaker kit to resolve this problem; however, in a pinch, I could install a 15 amp fuse to get it started. I did, it started, and now I guess I need a circuit breaker. ....

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oneace
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2004-07-02          89932

The circuit breaker is not at all expensive and if the tractor is still under warranty you should be able to get it for free. ....

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Justus
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2004-07-02          89933

I don't know what to tell you with it doing it over the course of a few months. Mine was about a week. I'm sure you've read my prior POSTS on this subject. I changed the ignition switch which was supposed to be a potential problem. I was surprised it was the battery because it WOULD start after turning the key several times with the 15 amp fuse in it. Everything sems fine now that they replaced the battery. Mine was 23 months old. I don't know what year yours is but maybe it's something to check if it's a few years old. Good luck. ....

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kyvette
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2004-07-15          90981

I just wanted to comment about fuses. Most of you, I am sure, realize the purpose of a fuse. Fuses are designed to protect the electrical circuity. The same goes for circuit breakers. Fuses and circuit breakers operate (open up) for one of two reasons: a defective or fatigued device or too much current flow (referred to as fault current) in the circuit they are protecting.

Relating to the original problem of a 10 amp fuse blowning, replacing the fuse with a higher rating or installing a circuit breaker only masks the problem, it doesn't cure the problem. There is something beyond the fuse that is causing too much current flow in the circuit.

I would suspect a defective component in the circuit or possibly a wire with worn insulation. If a wire with worn or damaged insulation (that is connected to the positive side of the battery) makes contact with a chassis ground, there goes the fuse. Could humidity cause the problem as some have suggested? I don't know, however, humidity means moisture and moisture is a conductor of electricity.

Hope this provides some insight.

....

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chipaz
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2004-07-16          91046

I concur with the point kyvette has made since I have worked with electrical energy for many years myself.

I find this situation with 10 amp fuses popping intermittently a little bit odd. Batteries do not usually cause this kind of problem, short circuits or defective components that create a situation where there an excessive amount of current being drawn through a circiut does. That is why fuses are implemented into the circuit design.

I have not had time to visit the dealer to inquire/purchase the circuit breaker kit they offer; however, it seems to me that, if this is a somewhat common problem with the TC33 tractor model, New Holland should be issuing some kind of engineering change order to resolve the problem. I will pursue this issue face-to-face with their service department when I get there.

BTW -
The wife is now relieved that the fuse problem was not being caused by something she did when she took the tractor out for a run.
....

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WVTC33
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2004-07-16          91059

This seems to be a widespread problem with the TC33.
My tractor is a 2003 model. The first fuse blew at 75 hours and 2 miles from any replacement fuses this spring. The second one let go last week at 130 hours. The only common element of these events was that the tractor had been running for several hours both times then was shut off, the second time by the seat safety switch. My dealer's chief mechanic told me the same as the rest of yours did, install a circuit breaker. He told me that was what he had been told at the NH mechanic training school he attended this spring. ....

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5picker
Join Date: May 2004
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2004-07-16          91072

I agree with kyvette & chipaz that fuses are to protect circuits and a shorted circuit is not the only reason a fuse will blow. Excessive current draw from whatever component is in that circuit can and will pop a fuse and there may be absolutly nothing wrong with any of the wiring or insulation. House type circuit breakers prove that daily.

I suspect something in that circuit is drawing excessive current when at operating temperature, especially since it's been suggested that it has occured after using the machine for several hours.

I'm not defending NH's stance in suggesting a circuit breaker to replace a fuse in a circuit but I imagine they have researched it enough to believe it is not caused by a short or wiring problem and they have determined that it is probably excessive current draw from some component.

Therefore, it is likely more "cost effective" at least from from their standpoint, to install a circuit breaker than it would be to re-design, re-engineer and then replace whatever component is causing the high current draw.

Bottom line is...document your problems along with when and where they happen and what you had to do to get back running. Install or have your dealer install whatever NH suggests. (this gives you proof they know they have a problem of some kind) Then if you continue have a problem down the road, you MIGHT have a leg to stand on.

Tim ....

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oneace
Join Date: Mar 2004
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2004-07-16          91125

Opinions are nice but facts are facts.
1. fuse blows do to over heated starter- hot starter needs more current to turn than a cool one, why? every thing is tighter due to expansion.
2. fuse blows do to low battery. low battery makes starter try to draw more current than is there. Why I do not know.
3. fuse will blow do to exposed safety switch wires grounding out. ie. seat, range, rear, and mid pto.

I have been all over those tractors looking for any other reason for the fuse blowing. There is none. New Holland engineers have been doing the same thing with nothing shown. The only sure fire solution is to replace the fuse with a circuit breaker. ....

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JimP
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Posts: 58 NY
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2004-07-16          91143

Facts may be facts, but if this was a new car, it would be returned to the dealer under our state's lemon law. There is a fundamental design issue here that the NH engineers have missed, and installing a circuit breaker is making it convenient to avoid the problem. Maybe when one of these tractors catches fire due to an electrical overload, we'll see how fast NH gets around to determining the root cause of this problem and then maybe recalling all these models with the defect. I don't need my electrical engineering degree to sense that something is fundamentally wrong here, and NH's official field repair to install a circuit breaker to fix this problem is quite frankly embarassing. ....

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oneace
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2004-07-16          91145

listen buddy!! why don't you look in the fuse panel of your frickin car and count how many circuit breakers are in there. If you think you can fix it than you find the solution and we will pay you for it. Oh wait we already have the solution the frickin circuit breaker. Oh but they arn't safe you better pull all the breakers out of your house and replace them with fuses then. They are the same thing. They trip under the same condition as a fuse blows but all you do is remove power and it resets, thus you don't have to replace a fuse every time or even get off the seat simply turn of the ignition switch and turn it back on and walla fixed. The same thing happens in your vehicle you just don't know it's happening. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-07-17          91182

JimP, I agree with your reasoning. A fuse is there to provide a safety mechanism for unusual circumstances, not everyday ones like starting up the tractor. A circuit breaker seems like it is just masking the problem. If I had a circuit breaker in the house trip all the time you can bet I'd have an electrician out to find and fix the problem before the house burned down. ....

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JimP
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2004-07-17          91183

I decided to sleep on oneace's response before getting riled up in the heat of the moment. Not sure I understand his logic nor whether or not it even makes sense. Yes, I do have fuses in my SUV and circuit breakers in my house, but I have 64K on my Ford Expedition and 7+ years in my house without having to replace a fuse or reset a breaker (well I had to reset an outdoor GFCI breaker when I moved in), and that is because both were properly DESIGNED to handle the loads in their respective electrical circuits.

Ken and others are entirely correct in saying a fuse or circuit breaker is a safety mechanism put in place to protect BOTH the electrical component and the wiring to it from an execessive load or short. I'm not sure about anyone else, but I do not blow a fuse every time I start my car or trip a circuit breaker every day when I turn on the TV in my house.

Bottom line is that there is a design flaw in the electrical system of this tractor if this is what is happening, backed by the multiple complaints on this thread. The field service fix is nothing but a temporary work-around to make it easier to recover from the problem. And like kyvette commented, replacing the original 10A fuse with a larger 15A fuse not only masks the problem but has potential safety implications -- if the wire used for that circuit is only rated for 10A and you put a larger fuse in, you may run the risk of overloading the wiring in that circuit, which in extreme cases could lead to an electrical fire. If I had bought one of these tractors that was affected by this problem, this tractor would be back at the dealer if I was told a larger fuse or circuit breaker is the official fix to the problem.

I would think oneace should direct his anger and frustration toward New Holland rather than towards me. There are lots of news users looking for buy decision recommendations and insight from this board and its members, and if I found this thread, I think I know which tractor I would NOT be buying. Maybe taking this thread to regional NH sales rep and showing him that this problem is having a negative impact on the NH brand and reputation would open some eyes.

Perhaps 5picker is right in that NH has isolated the problem and the circuit breaker is a cheaper field fix than recalling all the tractors to replace the defective component, but hey, what do I know -- I am just one of those college-educated, yuppie, SUV-driving engineers who doesn't know what they are talking about...

I will qualify my above commentary by stating that I do not own any of the "Big 3" but do own several older Bolens Iseki diesels that I perform all the work on myself, so my comments are truly unbiased by any color or manufacturer and based on my education and training in the electrical engineering field. ....

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Chief
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2004-07-17          91184

I agree with Ken and Jim. In the 17 years I owned my Nissan, I NEVER replaced a fuse or reset a circuit breaker. AND as it SHOULD be. Knock on wood, I have had to do this with my 4410 either. The point is that is should NOT happen and indicates a fault in the electrical system or its design. Whether it is a fuse or breaker is TOTALLY irrelivant........it should NOT be happening. The dealer or NH should be able to tell you EXACTLY what is causing the excessive current draw, why, and explain as well as demostrate the fix for the problem. It should NEVER occur again after this point in which case, in my opinion they have done their job and fixed the problem as well as stood behind their product AND the customer. oneace I disagree with your assesment of the problem and symptoms. If what you say were the case, then ALL tractors would be blow fuses and popping circuit breakers. I have done a fair amount of troubleshooting problems similar to this duing my time as a maintenance test pilot. There was ALWAYS a logical reason for breakers to pop. Sometimes it was very difficult to find the problem. Worst case, the engineers are forced to perform what was humorously called the "smoke check" in which the breaker or fuse was eliminated and replaced with a hard wire link and watch for the smoke. This is mighty drastic and destructive but at least the component or cause is identified. My CRS may be kicking in here but as I recall, wasn't this issue related to a faulty or bad start switch? ....

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oneace
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2004-07-17          91185

If you look back you will see that these are unusual circumstances. Most times it is do to a low or weak battery. Then there are times when the engine is hot or at operating temp as well as the starter solenoid at which time it takes more current to activate the solenoid. There are three switches other than the key switch in this safety start system. power goes to the key then to the range position switch then mid PTO, rear PTO switch ending at the start solenoid. As for chiefs smoke test we have tried that nothing ever fried malfunctioned or other wise. ....

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Chief
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2004-07-17          91188

In fairness, I can see replacing the fuse or breaker with a larger unit PROVIDED the wiring is replace/upgraded with wire matched and suitable to the load of the larger breaker or fuse. The OEM wiring may already be up to that rating but as I said above; this would be the responsibility of the dealer of NH to demostrate this to the customer either in person or issue a product service bulletin to apprise the customer in WRITING that the fix has been tested, is SAFE, AND effective, not to mention guaranteeing warranty coverage for any issue which may arise to the fix. ....

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oneace
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2004-07-17          91193

Just to make it strait we do not recommend a higher amp fuse or breaker. As a matter of fact we install 8.5 amp breakers in place of the 10 amp fuse. It is also in writing in our NH service bulletins all you have to do is ask it you will be able to see it in your dealers service department. ....

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Justus
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2004-07-17          91196

I don't know a lot about electricity, or anything else for that matter (retired trooper, no Masters or PHD's), but I do like to think I have some common sense. I believe that you all have legitimate points. When I started this thread I didn't think it would cause such a fuss. I also didn't think that the battery would cause the fuse to blow but apparently it can because I haven't had any more problems since the battery was replaced. I love this tractor but it's been said before that they're all good as long as they're running. I think we can all agree on that. Just like everyone else that starts a thread on here I appreciate all the input.
Oneace, as an employee of a New Holland dealership I, and I would think most others, look forward to your input; particularly for this make of tractor. You provide valuable information and hands on experience BUT you have to lighten up just a tad. Please switch to decaff so that we can have you around for a while and benefit from your experience :-).
....

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oneace
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2004-07-17          91199

I know and most others know I have a bad attitude sometimes. Mostly I get mad a my self for not beinng able to put my thoughts in to words. I am a mechanic not a writer though I can not figure out why.lol ....

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kyvette
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2004-07-19          91284

I too, am an electrical engineer, however, my expertise is not with tractor electrical systems. I am a utility engineer and design high voltage systems.

I've never heard of a low battery or a hot starter blowing a fuse. However, I would never say it doesn't happen, because I don't know. Electricity can do some mighty strange things, and it doesn't matter if it's a 12vdc tractor circuit or a 120/240vac house service.

Fuses and circuit breakers have a single purpose, to protect. Fuses can be referred to as a weak link and are designed to blow under abnormal current flow. Circuit breakers function the same as a fuse but are resetable.

Is there a design problem in the electrical system? I don't know, but hopefully, NH will revisit the issue. Maybe in future models the fuse block should be replaced with circuit breakers. ....

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chipaz
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2004-07-19          91396

Update. I went by the dealer and acquired the "circuit breaker kit" that was recommended. Basically, the package is a small tin can (about twice as thick as a standard plastic fuse link package) that plugs easily in the socket where the 10 Amp fuse used to live. I used tractor a lot this weekend, many shutdowns and startups were required because on the safety interlock in the seat. Everything seemed to operate normal. If this is the fix, Personally, I think the vendor should take responsibility for this problem and officially issue an engineering change order to address this issue; otherwise, anyone who alters the stardard configuration of the TC33D's electrical system is essentially assuming responsibility if something is damaged or gets too hot and catches on fire.

Anyway, here are the details on the circuit breaker:
Part Vendor - Standard (automotive parts)
Part # - BR310
Component info - 12V 10A 282
Component description - Red tin package with fuse link leads. No external reset.
My cost - $12.00


....

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Chief
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2004-07-20          91421

chipaz, glad you were able to come up with a suitable fix but I think it is BIG BS that you have to pay for it. NH should be stepping up to the plate for that on principle. ....

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5picker
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2004-07-20          91441

Chipaz,
I agree with Chief that there should have been no cost involved to you. Just for the sake of knowing...how old is your machine? That really shouldn't matter as there still should have been no cost for a repair to a problem NH knows exists.

I'm also wondering if this "fix" is something that the dealers are obtaining the parts locally for or if this "kit" is something sent out by NH? Didn't oneace reply somewhere that the circuit breakers he has installed were of LESSER amperage than the original 10 amp fuse? Why then did you get one of a different value? Not that it will hurt anything being that it is the same value as the original fuse but my point is, if NH is allowing their dealers to purchase whatever parts are necessary to complete this update, then how do they know that the proper components were or even are, being installed? Doesn't sound like very good owner/dealer/corporate communication to me!

I'm con-fused! (pun intended)
Tim

....

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oneace
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2004-07-20          91480

Yes I did say that New Holland recommends either the 10 amp or the 8.5 amp depending on what is available we install the 8.5 amp. We do acquire them locally it is a lot cheaper to do it that way then pay for shipping. Yes It should have been covered under the warranty at no cost. There is no campaign on this issue which is where we go and fix or modify every single unit there is how ever a service bulletin to fix or repair as needed. Our store by it self has at leased 2500 units sold with maybe 3 to 8 that needed the breaker. It is not a wide spread problem and the conditions have to be perfect for the fuse to pop which I have already explained those circumstances. ....

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JDLutey
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 21 Nebraska
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2004-08-24          94320

HI ! New to the board. was "Googleing" TC33 and "blown fuse" etc. Yestdy the "main fuse" on the left side blew -- it hangs loose in a holder with 2 red wires. Boomer only has 50 hrs, and worked fine all winter -- started OK in 20 below (with kerosene mix). BUT it blew AS the glow plugs were on, before I hit the crank position. The "main fuse" was a 25a, but dealer says its a common problem, and reccs to up it to a 30a and see. Anybody heard of such a thing?
I really hate to oversize a fuse.

thanks. JDL

....

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Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 4297 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2004-08-24          94321

Those fuses were a sore subject around these parts not too long ago. ;o) As Oneace has metioned already, there is a fix by replacing the fuse with a circuit breaker. I would recommend having this fix applied to your machine. I am sure Oneace can elaborate much more on this. ....

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oneace
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1490 south central pa
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2004-08-24          94340

The main fuse for the tractor is now a 30 amp fuse from the factory. How old is your unit? The fuse that is recommended replaced by a circuit breaker is the 10 amp safety start circuit fuse. Let me know if there is any thing else I can help you with. ....

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JDLutey
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 21 Nebraska
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2004-08-24          94375

Ace, Thanks. My Boomer was new June of '03, BUT I don't know "build date". The main was (and is) a 25amp ... BUT the dealer mentioned an "upgrade to 30a". There were times last winter when I "glow-plugged" it 3-4 times and it never blew the thing. Oh well, the next fix will be about 2 minutes. Thanks. JDL ....

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oneace
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1490 south central pa
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2004-08-24          94390

That year should have already had the 30 amp in. Well any way when you upgrade to the 30 amp you should have no more problems. ....

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JDLutey
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 21 Nebraska
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2005-07-08          113189

I love the TC33, but the fuses are getting old. That above was back in LAST August. I DID put in a 30a main. Worked till this Feb. (10 below !!). It blew the 30 amp once -- then was MAYBE while the glow plugs were on. Then 3-4 days ago it wouldn't start, different symptoms -- as if I had the PTO in gear or left it in gear. THIS time it was the 15a fuse (from the factory as a 15 .. but the book says it's to be a 10a) in the #5 slot on the right side. Replacing it was all it took. I've started it 6-8 times in the last 2-3 days.

NOTE .. the 1st manual they gave me on the thing WAS wrong. it was "3/02" down in the left corner of the cover. The schematics were wrong (and the "main fuse") as well as the fuse block info on page 3-23.

So, WHY does the "Boomer" blow fuses? (since we have 12 acre, I'm gonna put some in the tool box and save a long walk some day !) ....

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oneace
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1490 south central pa
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2005-07-09          113195

That is something that we have not been able to figure out. Ask your dealer about replacing the fuse with a breaker. Cost about $5.00 and newer have to replace the fuse again. ....

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JD855inWI
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 38 Mid East Wisconsin
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2005-07-09          113206

ONEACE and TC owners: I see this came up again and have a suggestion that you may checkout. DC solenoids have a very high current inrush, until the plunger pulls inside of the coil, then the current drops off to almost nothing. A low battery or circuit with higher than normal resistance, will energize the coil on the starter and the current will go quite high, but not high enough to pull in the bendix. If the starter bendix is sluggish from dirt or rust the same thing will happen. If the key were held on trying to crank the engine, the fuse would probably blow in a couple of seconds. It depends on what type fuse was installed. A 10 amp time rated fuse will allow the current to rise greater than 10 amps for a short time (4 or 5 seconds), but will blow immediately on a short circuit. You can check the Buss fuse site for different type fuse ratings and see where the standard TC fuse fits in the time tables.
The standard fuse is probably not a delay type fuse. I used to work on P&H DC powered cranes and have seen this problem. I hope this helps you trace down the TC problem.

Most shop volt/ohm/amp meters have a 10 amp range, if someone has a tractor where this happens all the time the meter and an inline fuse could be clipped in to the fuse holder in place of the normal fuse and the circuit current could be monitored. A fuse blows because the internal element generates heat until it parts or melts, if a fuse has blown in a holder a number of times, the clips start to get weak and the point where the clip contacts the fuse generates additional heat which changes the fuses ratings. Fuse manufactures actually sell an insulated clamp to tighten the clips against the fuse to reduce the heating effect.

How many of you remember the GM fix for the GTO and Z28 Camero in the 60s? Insulating the starter and adding in a control relay to send power directly from the battery to the starter solenoid,
....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2005-07-09          113209

Well it sounds like my TC33D electrical gremlins have moved on to greener (bluer?) pastures! I have had fuses go that control the fuel cutoff solenoid many times. All of a sudden the circuit completely stopped for same. So I ended up finding a circuit that turned on at the same time and tied into that. The main fuse gave me problems so I bypassed it. My starter went at 20 hours due to the rubber shroud on the key preventing the key from returning all the way back to RUN. My ignition switch was full of dirt and debris which caused other maladies. I wrapped electical tape around it to help seal out dirt. ....

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kskwash
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 58 Texas
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2005-07-10          113219

This is another example of why a good dealership is so important when having any type of problem. ....

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Gearhead
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 75 SEVEN mILE OH
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2005-07-19          113667

We had a brand new tc33 come off the truck blowin the same fuse. I made sure it wasn't a dead short to ground then i put a wire in place of the fuse and hooked a amp meter on it. Found that when in crackin mode that circuit was drawin about 14 amps, repalced the solinoid and it dropped it down some but still had to put in a circuit breaker. Seemed to fix that one. ....

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pinche
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1 PA
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2005-08-01          114223

I recommend a 10 amp circuit breaker. Something like UCB-10 found at most automotive stores will work. The circuit breaker will be less sensitve to the current spikes seen at start-up. ....

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