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 11-02-2000, 20:31 Post: 21164
Shorty



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 new tractor break in

I just found this site the last night. After reading some of the older posts, (there was a mention of glazing cylinders during the break-in.)I just ordered a TC45d and was wondering, is there a procedure for breaking in a new tractor? My soon to be old tractor, a TC25D, when they delivered it, I just went to work, I didn't do anything different then I do every time I hop on it now. It has 350 hrs and I haven't had any real problems. It does use a little oil in between oil changes, but I account that to working it alittle hard at times. Was I lucky, or are the 4 or 5 hrs the dealer runs on the dyno all you need for a good break in?






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 11-02-2000, 21:01 Post: 21165
Bird Senter

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 new tractor break in

Shorty, my Kubota manual says to not operate the tractor at "full speed" for the first 50 hours. Now PTO speed (rpm) is not quite full throttle, but awfully darned close, and nearly everyone I've known to buy a tractor starts out using it right away. I'll have to admit that I wonder about those instructions myself.






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 11-02-2000, 22:40 Post: 21177
Kenny



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 new tractor break in

Shorty, Personally the main thing that I feel is important when breaking in a new engine, is to be sure to warm up the engine thoroughly before working it very hard. Most manufacturers also reccomend to vary the operating speed alot during the first 50 hours. They also reccomend not using synthetic oils for the first 100 hours since they are too slippery and dont allow the rings to seat properly.






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 11-03-2000, 06:39 Post: 21183
Greg Harrison



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 new tractor break in

Kenny, What manufacturer doesnt recommend synthetics for breakin, I have never seen that only heard the rumors.
Greg H






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 11-03-2000, 07:34 Post: 21185
BillMullens

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 new tractor break in

Ford (auto division) issued a technical service bulletin not to use sythetic in the first 4,000 miles, due to insufficient friction for ring/cylinder break-in. I have heard the GM recommends the same thing.

I have a friend that is a professional mechanic; he always told me that his diesel school taught him not to do an "easy" break-in. Supposedly, carbon would build up around the rings, the first time you ran it hard the rings would flex a bit more, potentially breaking a ring. He was taught to "Break it in just like you'd drive it."

I believe the point of most break-in procedures is not to run in a hard pull at full throttle. Engines produce maximum torque at wide-open throttle; this would be the time when an engine is producing the most heat and combustion pressure. In other words, its not the rpm's to avoid; it is wide open throttle against a pull.

My New Holland book says avoid lugging at break-in. It has the best definition of lugging I've seen: When the engine doesn't respond to increased throttle, you're lugging.

Last point: I've also been told by many mechanics that "back pressure" against the rings helps seat them; in other words, to let off the throttle going down hills and varying engine speeds while driving. The owners manual for my tractor also states to avoid constant engine speeds while breaking in.

Bill Mullens
TC29S "Live"






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 11-03-2000, 10:55 Post: 21191
Art White



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 new tractor break in

Normally the engines are seated in well enough by the time they get to the owner that they will be fine to run as you need them. I do also recommend the varing of the throttle a bit and not quite full throttle for the first ten to twenty hours. Then run it like you want. Chances are you will never put enough hours on to wear out the engine and if it does fail it will be a combination of other things such as the injectors or valve train.






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 11-04-2000, 05:22 Post: 21208
Roger L.



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 new tractor break in

I don't take any special care except to run the engine "moderately" and to try to keep things from heating up as much as possible. This means no full throttle, full load running.... No prolonged idling... in fact, no prolonged anything at all. Just somewhat gentle but normal operation. I always try to arrange to run it during the cool part of the day particularly in the first few hours.
Other things: I am a believer in changing all of the oils early in the engine life. After running a new engine for a day to a week I'll be changing the oils and filters. After that it is recommended intervals or annually.
I also believe that using a block heater reduces start up wear. I always use it when the weather is cool or cold, and may use it even in fairly warm weather.
Tell me more about the "4 or 5 hrs the dealer runs on the dyno"? This is the first time I've heard of such a thing. It is a new one on me, and I expect it is for a lot of people. Does he charge extra for this service? It would take a lot of dealer time to do this, and I think a lot of folks would rather break the tractor in themselves rather than trust someone else to do so.






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 11-04-2000, 14:08 Post: 21216
Shorty



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 new tractor break in

Thanks guys. Roger I'm not sure what the dealer does during the break in. We were walking around the back lot one day, and I asked what the big blue box was over in the corner. They said it was a dyno they use for breaking in new tractors and testing the 3-point hp output on customers tractors. From what I gathered it is a water bath, that is spun by pto shaft on your tractor. They can put different loads on the tractor by adjusting it. I'm fairly sure all the new tractors on his lot have 4-5 hrs on them.






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 11-25-2000, 04:30 Post: 21788
Aaron E. Zimmermann



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 new tractor break in

Shorty, I agree with Roger about changing oil and filter often during the early days. You would be surprised the amount of leftover manufacturer's trace metals are still inside the engine.






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 11-25-2000, 09:20 Post: 21793
Roger L.



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 new tractor break in

Yep. Engine break-in seems to be equal parts folklore, experience, ignorance, and some engineering principles. In my previous message on breaking in new engines I'm being pretty conservative. But it is the way I like to approach mechanical things. Its hard to argue against this approach. At the worst, you just end up doing some extra maintenance that makes no difference. But every once in a while an engine gets assembled with tolerances at the tight end of the specs....or some casting sand or metal shavings get left in the case. Then the easy break-in and early fluid changes might add significantly to the engine life.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > New Holland Tractor Review Forum

Thread 21164 Filter by Poster:
Aaron E. Zimmermann 1 | Art White 1 | BillMullens 1 | Bird Senter 1 | Greg Harrison 1 | Kenny 1 | Roger L. 2 | Shorty 2 |

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