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 04-07-2002, 06:30 Post: 37130
dcsmith



Join Date: Jul 2003
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 Which tires

My wife has agreed in principle to allow me to purchase a new B7500. It will replace my 29 year old L175. My grass has wet areas. Will industrial tires tear up the grass? I think I could use the extra traction, but how bad are they on turf? Thanks DCSmith






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 04-07-2002, 07:00 Post: 37132
Mrwurm



Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: South East Michigan
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 Which tires

You've really opened a can of worms here dcs.

My opinion... the R4's are not too bad on turf in most situations.
I have found, even with turf tires, that any damage that does
occur results from the front tires. I'm gonna see if I can get
R4's on the back and a properly sized turf tire on the front
when I get my new tractor. I know, sounds crazy, but I've
always been a little off the beaten path.
Jerry






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 04-07-2002, 07:10 Post: 37133
TomG

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 Which tires

There's quite a bit of discussion in the archives. I think a fair summary is that industrials are harder on turf than turfs, but some people use industrials OK. It's hard to generalize because soil type and wetness make a big difference. In addition, quite a bit of the success of operating on turf depends on total weight of the tractor, sharpness of turns and operation in 2 or 4 WD.

The front wheels of my 3,000 lbs. tractor with turfs (not including a 3ph implement) will tear turf in sharp turns except when the ground is very dry. If I mowed with the tractor, I'd probably do so in 2wd and wait for dry weather.

It's a little hard to say without trying it, but there's a chance that industrials would be OK, especially if maneuvering on the wet places can be avoided and mowing can be done when it's fairly dry. Alternatively, my tractor is a bit traction challenged with its turfs when using a 6' box scraper. However, I am able to manage the traction problems by cutting at slower speeds and taking smaller bites. Most times it will drag full boxes of gravel, and I can put weight in the loader for extra traction if needed. Turfs are nicer than industrials for roading a tractor for any distance.

I've heard of barred turf tires, but I haven't seen them or know if they're easier on turf than industrials and have more traction than turfs. I would take care with the issue. Wives and tracks in the lawn can become an issue that lasts longer a tractor.






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 04-07-2002, 09:42 Post: 37139
chim
2002-04-07 00:00:00
Post: 37139
 Which tires

I just spent a few weeks agonizing over a number of things before deciding on the tractor (B7500/#302FEL/R4), and finally went with the R4's. Still need to make final decision on the 3PH mower and ballast. The soil around me is fairly firm unless waterlogged - there is a small stream that runs through the front of the property, and a couple times a year, it comes over the banks and deposits a new layer of some poor farmer's topsoil at my place. When this happens during mowing season, I almost always get on it before I should. Patience was never one of my strong points. For the first couple of years after we built, I had a Cub 154 Lowboy with turf tires (2WD), and for the last 7 or 8 years, have been using a Ford 1210 with Ag tires (4WD). In the softened area near the creek, both tractors did about the same amount of marking. At certain times on the "normal" part of the lawn, both the Ag and Turfs I used pressed the grass down so that the mower wouldn't lift it back up for a proper cut, and the grass would stand up a day or so later. This could have been from letting the grass get too tall before mowing, although the grass seems to have a different consistency at different times in the season.

There are only a couple places I use 4WD when mowing, mostly at my Mom-in-law's place on some hills. The Ag tires have worked fine, with the exception of making tight turns in 4WD. Even when the ground is dry, the ribs have a tendency to toss up small tufts of grass, kinda like when I tried playing golf.

Right now, it looks like it will be Tuesday before using the 7500 to mow for the first time, and I'll let you know how things go. Just running around playing with the loader, it looks like the R4's don't mash the grass down too badly...............chim






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 04-07-2002, 10:48 Post: 37144
bigbukhntr



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 Which tires

did the dealer charge any extra to change the tires to R4's?
i want the same setup on a L3010 i am pretty seriously considering....the tractor has ag tires at the moment..






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 04-07-2002, 11:41 Post: 37146
chim
2002-04-07 00:00:00
Post: 37146
 Which tires

There is a difference in price between Ag and R4, but I don't know how much. I had decided on the R4's, and didn't ask the dealer for hard numbers for comparison. He said there was "a couple hundred bucks" difference......chim






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 04-07-2002, 21:55 Post: 37159
Captain B



Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: West central New Hampshire
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 Which tires

I just took delivery on a John Deere 990 with R-4's. I have had a JD 850 with turfs for seven years. Both are really outstanding machines. Just finished a full day of brush hogging a fairly steep hill with 10' poplars and thick pucker brush in New Hampshire. Not too many things more fun and visibly rewarding--you can keep your spring skiing.
Even though we have had almost no snow this winter, the R-4's left pretty obvious tread prints on the dirt access roads but no place else. Turfs would also. I spent a full day in wet fields and I didn't tear things up any where near as much as I expected.
My take on R-4's: (1) generally twice the plys over ags or turfs so they're good to have to avoid punctures if you are working in the woods or fields with hidden stumps as I was today, (2) they do tear up things up more than turfs but not nearly as much as ags, (3) traction is just fine if you have loaded tires or wheel weights. In fact, I've never even had any problems with my loaded turfs except a couple times when the snow was so deep my 850 just bottomed out in crusted stuff.
Bottom line--R-4's are a great compromise where you want better durability and traction than turfs, aren't too price sensitive and don't have a true agricultural application.






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 04-08-2002, 05:55 Post: 37161
dcsmith



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 Which tires

I believe the R-4's were $200 more than turfs. They also have a "Bar Tread" for the same money. These look somewhat like a lawn and garden tractor tire. They certainly are somewhere in between R-4 and turf(rear tires only). That may be the route. They would eliminate having chains to plow snow. That is if it snows next year. Thanks for all your input. DCSmith






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 04-08-2002, 10:46 Post: 37171
DRankin



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 Which tires

I think Captain B hit the nail on the head with the phrase "true agricultural application". That is all R-1 tires are good for. The treads are designed to be self-cleaning, and will in practice push material away from the tire while it digs for more traction. If you spin R-1 tires in a barn with a good layer of manure on the floor they will dig and squeegee their way down to the concrete and find the traction to do the job. They also do a marvelous job on wet compactable soils such as pasturelands and meadows and are top notch for pulling a plow or a harrow through such environments.
But I wonder if most compact tractors have sufficient weight to allow R-1 tires to imprint and therefore achieve optimal traction in most types of soil. The old John Deere Bís and Case tractors of my childhood did not tear up the lawn when they drove over it; they just left deep cleat marks in the grass. The combination of tremendous weight, low relative horsepower and huge wheels made it very difficult to spin the tires.
NFL teams understand the principles of traction well and maybe we can learn from them. Early in the season they wear long cleats, especially on the line where those huge bodies can drive the cleats into the turf and get traction. Later in the season when the ground begins to freeze the cleats get shorter and by the end of the season, when most outdoor stadiums are frozen, they are wearing their turf tires (I am mixing my metaphors here).
I am sure that if I could follow a real tractor around with my 4100, I would find that the bigger machine would imprint the Ag tires in places where my little machine would barely leave a trace. And when the lugs of my tires are not fully engaged by the soil they are more likely to spin and tear things up when I do lose traction or push against an obstacle. So if I am going to ride on top of most types of soil, rather than engaged in the soil, I might as well get a tire that puts the most rubber on the ground.
Maybe it is good to recall that our compact tractors with aggressive R-1 tires were invented in the Far East where flooded fields and rice paddies are the order of the day. A big American tractor would sink to its axles in that environment; Iíve seen it happen. On the other hand, our compacts with less aggressive tires would not develop the required traction in the flooded field situation. So if you are operating in water-saturated soils, a compact tractor with R-1 tires is probably damn near perfect. But firmer and dryer soils (and lawns) require totally different tread designs. Thatís my two cents, what do you guys out there in cyberspace think?






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 04-09-2002, 10:06 Post: 37211
bigbukhntr



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 Which tires

i checked with 4 different dealers on the R4 vs. R1 tire....all 4 said $650-750 upgrade to go to R4's...is this consistent with anyone else's findings? this was on a 3010 by the way






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