Wanted for BX2350 tires wheel and Lawn rake: Kubota Review  -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum and Review Wanted for BX2350 tires wheel and Lawn rake: Kubota Review -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum

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 11-18-2007, 23:47 Post: 148414
mupparpa



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 Wanted for BX2350 tires wheel and Lawn rake

Hi I'm looking for a spare set of rear wheels for my BX2350 as well as a lawn rake/tine.
Also, if anyone has experience mowing in a lawn which sits on clay so it is wet all the time I'd be interested in any solutions you suggest. I live in Michigan. Thanks for any help or advice I'm getting tired of burying my tractor (thank God for 4X4)
Doug 248-931-8563






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 11-19-2007, 06:23 Post: 148417
earthwrks

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 Wanted for BX2350 tires wheel and Lawn rake

Doug I'm not far from you. I grew up in Shelby Township.

If your clay is always wet, sounds like you have drainage issues.

Describe how your lot looks, where your gutter down spouts drain into, etc.

Any idea how deep the water table is? (For example, I'm in the southeasternmost part of Wayne County where the water table is 18" below ground.)

If need be, as a contractor maybe I can help you. I have a 6' power rake that is great for breaking up the clay making it loose for seeding.

We're suppose to get rain this week---and supposedly a bunch of snow toward the end of the week (the ground isn't cold enough to make it stay but it just makes a sloppy mess when it melts) Oh yeah, and I have a big bobcat on steel tracks to get through the sloppy stuff. Check out my "Tractor Point Profile" by clicking on my name and it will link you to show some of the equipment I have.






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 11-19-2007, 18:19 Post: 148447
DRankin



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 Wanted for BX2350 tires wheel and Lawn rake

Last time I looked..... admittedly a few years ago..... Kubota had excellent prices for replacement wheels and tires.

Ask for the "whole goods" price and compare to the "parts" price.






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 11-19-2007, 22:14 Post: 148461
mupparpa



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 Wanted for BX2350 tires wheel and Lawn rake

Thanks I will do that. As always you're a great wealth of knowledge. Kubota should be giving you a consulting fee!






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 11-19-2007, 22:26 Post: 148463
mupparpa



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 Wanted for BX2350 tires wheel and Lawn rake

Thanks. The lawn is flat in the back for about 80 feet before starting downward and the front slopes down very slightly. The property has a ditch running along side the road (I'm on the corner so I'm bordered by two roads).

Each ditch drains under the road and into a watershed area. Or is supposed to. That's part of the issue. I got a little frustrated yesterday when my tractor sank to axles and I started spitting out grass clumps in this ditch so I just lowered my front loader and dug up around the culvert going under the road. All clay but the drain pipe also began draining back into the ditch. So much for keeping that area dry.
So in the spring I guess I'll be over in the watershed making sure it's drain and water level is lower than my property!
But, in the back where it's almost as mucky it is about 10' feet higher than than this ditch so it has to be a separate issue. I had read about putting in a drainage system similar to french drains but my challenge is I have 16 sprinkler zones spider webbing around my property with no map to know where the actual lines are.
So I think I'm going to have to go retro and get out the shovel to find those lines and then build the french drains around them.
At first I thought it was a broken sprinkler line but when they blew out the sprinklers for the winter the ones in the wet area seemed to have great pressure and we didn't see/hear any air coming from other spots in the ground.
So I guess in the spring I'll be looking for an irrigation expert to make sure the pipes are located in the right places. I hate to spend the money but paying for a ton of sod after I hit an miss probably would be more expensive. Thanks for the advice.






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 11-19-2007, 22:55 Post: 148465
Art White



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 Wanted for BX2350 tires wheel and Lawn rake


The last time we had a run on the ag tires and rims they were about 300 plus freight. Now you also have a choice of industrials but the traction isn't as good. I'd find a local water witcher to find your lines, the towns have machines to do it. I like a pair of welding rods for finding water lines.






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 11-20-2007, 06:32 Post: 148475
earthwrks

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 Wanted for BX2350 tires wheel and Lawn rake

Mupp sounds like you may have to "bite the bullet" so to speak and rent a 4" trencher from Home Depot on rubber tracks and cut those sprinkler lines. The lines are easy to fix and easy to see when you cut them. You'll then put 4" black perforated pipe in the trench. You'll need a laser level and receiver to get the pitch right to the ditch. A true French drain won't be as effective as a hollow pipe. (French drain in these parts means a tnch filled with gravel--which eventually fills up with soil).

And since you have the trencher there, do yourself a big favor and put ALL your gutter downspouts under ground and run them out to the ditch. I do this for new and old homes in my area.

The watershed, do you mean for a river (Clinton?) or is it a swampy area? Oxford is rolling hills like Milford as I recall, right? If so, you may be stuck (no pun intended) with your situation as it sounds like you're sitting in a bowl. Is the house new? If yes, was there a lot of backfill brought in---like sand or gravel?

I have a hunch you're very close to the water table, which makes it nearly impossible to mitigate the problem. If I were in your shoes, I would be tempted to investigate how much ground water is around. I would auger a hole as deep as I could go (because I have the equipment mainly) (I have augered 2' diameter x 13' deep for a neighbor with the same problem). Then watch how far down the hole the hole fills up---you see it leaking through the hole's wall. You can do the same thing with a backhoe, or mini excavator too but it ca be messy. Once the hole is made, regardless of depth or size, treat it like the sump pump in your basement--pump it out. Buy a small sump pump and pump the hole's water out to the ditch. Keep in mind that if the water in the ditch doesn't drain quickly chances are it will reenter the water table and basically be recycled.

If you have ditch drainage issues call the County Drain Commission (if they still use that name) or the City and have them clean it out. If they whine about doing it drop the words "my attorney will be drafting a letter..." because it causing damage to your property.

Feel free to contact me via private e-mail or by phone anytime (734) 552-3317






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 11-20-2007, 07:26 Post: 148481
hardwood

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 Wanted for BX2350 tires wheel and Lawn rake

I've gotta agree with EW, regardless of the sprinkler lines you need subsurface drainage with common perforated drain tile. Biggest concern is having a good outlet for the tile. If you can get a deep enough outlet on your side of the road it will be fairly easy to do. Use the laser to be sure you have fall to the outlet. I'd never heard the term "French Drains", they would be more costly and lots more work than drain tile. Frank.






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 11-20-2007, 17:07 Post: 148514
earthwrks

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 Wanted for BX2350 tires wheel and Lawn rake

Frank the term French Drain is popular in my area south of Detroit which is largely French. Rumor has it that the French would dig drainage ditches around their forts and emcampments when this area and Canada which is only across the river from us was held by the French and British during the early wars going back some 300 years.






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 11-20-2007, 19:15 Post: 148527
mupparpa



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 Wanted for BX2350 tires wheel and Lawn rake

Thanks for all the advice. The idea of putting in stone for drains wasn't very appealing so I'm encouraged that you think I can accomplish the same or better with perforated pipe. Without the ongoing maintenance which occurs when the stone gets filled with the clay.
Fortunately my property is elavated above the swampy area which everyone's yards drain into across the street.
I may not win the battle in the ditch right next to the street where the drain hole goes across since it appears to be at 'water level'.
But, I took a better look tonight with a core rod which I borrowed from a friend who does septics. It looks like my yard is a mix of clay and conventional dirt or fill. The challenge is there is a concentration where the clay is right under the sod in the middle of the back yard and then the clay is deeper under the surface as I move towards the edge before the 8-10 drop (over about at 30 foot distance) to the ditch.
The road then is about 3-4 feet above the bottom of the ditch. So I agree if I put in the pipes I should be able to drain those pockets where the clay is concentrated near the surface out through the side of the hill and into the ditch.
Our sub-division is a private road so my recourse would most likely have to be with the association regarding the back draining into my ditch. Maybe I can use my Kubota with the FEL to help the association with other projects to build the goodwill for their help with clearing the drains in the wetlands.
I was also looking tonight and thinking if that doesn't work my solution may be to fill the ditch so it is higher than the drain going under the road enough to keep the pressure going that way. Especially if I can concentrate all the drain pipes into the hole and create an artificial (hidden under the sod) wall to prevent back flow.
Thanks also for the advice on the sprinklers. I didn't consider that just getting through them and fixing this problem would be much simpler than working around them. Thanks for all your advice we may be talking in the spring. Having just had neck surgery so I'm not as agile as I used to be! Thanks.






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