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 03-03-2004, 13:05 Post: 78627
burtalm



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 Re More on implements

To get back to my original question, Are there other "must have' implements I should consider with my original purchase?






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 03-03-2004, 13:34 Post: 78629
Murf

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 Re More on implements

Sorry about the diversion.

IMHO, the list of "must have" implements is ENTIRELY dictated by what the tractor "must do".

If you want to cut grass a mower is handy, but if you want to move dirt it won't be much help.

What sort of things do you want to do with it, and what are the conditions like?






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 03-03-2004, 14:44 Post: 78637
burtalm



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 Re More on implements

Tasks, cut trails through woodland, move soil and/ or gravel as needed. skid small logs back to campsite, push existing brush piles back, transport tools to job sites, pull utility trailer around land, pull boat & trailer to launch site, maybe move some snow in spring and fall, back blade small areas that may wash out during occasional heavy rains. prepare a couple of small areas for plantings. Transport an occasionally lazy, retired operator to the "back Forty."






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 03-03-2004, 16:28 Post: 78660
Murf

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 Re More on implements

Ahh, now we're getting somewhere. Now IMHO you need (want?) the following implements.

- Bush-hog, for cutting rough stufff and keeping back the brush, sized just wider than the wheels of the tractor.

- Rear Blade, to smooth trails and driveway, and to deal with a little snow, also makes a dandy small log skidder, or brush pile pusher.

- Carry-all or dump box, utility carrier or for moving firwood, etc.

This will do most of what you want for relatively little money.

I know I will get dumped on by a bunch of people for this one, buthere goes anyways. If the cost of this purchase is even a slight budget stretcher then with what you are describing doing I think you would be better served by NOT buying a FEL and instead using some of that savings to buy some other implements instead, or use it the money to get a larger tractor. If money is no object than by all means get the FEL.

Best of luck.






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 03-03-2004, 17:05 Post: 78666
beagle

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 Re More on implements

Landscape rakes are inexpensive and do a nice job of tending trails in the spring. Dump box seems like a good alternative to a FEL. You may consider a rear scoop if you have dirt or gravel to move about without a FEL. Northern and several others carry both,

At my place, the FEL completes the versatility of the tractor. Might be able to do without, but wouldn't want to. It gets used more than any other implement.

By the way, that CK20 is a NICE machine. CK 25 and 30 coming soon. The only thing that kept me from buying one was a fantastic Kubota dealer and a sorry Kioti dealer.






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 03-04-2004, 06:21 Post: 78732
TomG

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 Re More on implements

Should have read this thread before replying to the original one I guess. Sounds like there is some work in mind for the tractor. There are some things needed and some things to learn about using CUT's for hauling logs, trailers, boats etc. A blade should work better than a loader for snow removal but each of them have problems and things to learn for snow removal from gravel roads.






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 03-04-2004, 09:50 Post: 78767
DRankin



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 Re More on implements

Your carry all or dump box should do double duty as a rear ballast box and should have some provision for a trailer hitch on the rear. I built one for under $250

I think you will find the box feature pretty handy but if you have an FEL you won't use the dump feature very often.






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 03-04-2004, 11:06 Post: 78780
moosefishing



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 Re More on implements

sure need to be careful about "pushing brush". A tractor and loader is not a subistute for a dozer. Maby thats why God made chain saws.






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 03-04-2004, 13:55 Post: 78802
burtalm



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 Re More on implements

Thank you Tom for both replies. What should I learn regarding puting boats, trailers and hauling logs. I figured that boats and trailers simply connect on my draw bar and away I go. I know that backing up a hay wagon is tricky (haven't done that in 38 years since my school days on the farm. As for logs, I have log "clevis" (correct term??) on a swivel. Figured I run a chain from thbucket, or the blade or a 3 pt hitch bar, Raise the tractor end of the log a little and skid it where I want it. Being sure The log is small enough for the tractor to handle. Have I missed much. If you have more hints, fire away. It's been quite a while since my farming youth.
Burt






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 03-05-2004, 07:29 Post: 78857
TomG

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Bert: I missed your farm tractor experience when I read your posts so I may not say much you don't already know.

I was mostly thinking of the use of one these 3ph bars that has an automotive hitch receiver for moving trailers around. I think most of them sold have limiting chains to prevent the hitch from raising too high if the tongue becomes unloaded as it can if a heavy trailer is pushing a tractor downhill. In addition, as you likely know very well tractors are better at pulling than stopping. Heavy loads can give them problems stopping or slowing down on hills. Curves at the bottom produce overturns.

I think you'll find that modern CUT's are a joy to work compared to older farm tractors. Most HST's provide braking that gear tractors didn't have and 4wd puts another tire into the traction. CUT's make up for weight and traction in farm tractors with 4wd and it's good to use 4wd anytime there's loads and hills. It's pretty easy for a light CUT to get out-muscled by a load and some people start out with the diff lock engaged going down especially iffy hills to prevent the diff from counter-rotating and to keep 3 tires working at traction. CUT front/back weigh distributions are more equal than older farm tractors to take advantage of 4wd. They may be less prone to back-flips but a trailer can produce unexpected weight transfers to the 3ph. It's something to watch when going up hill with weight on the 3ph. The old way of backing up still can be good. Going up hill when skidding logs tend to pull more of the log off the ground which also make an unexpected weight transfer to the 3ph.

I expect your original operator sense will prevail and you'll make the adjustment to CUT's just fine and have a ball doing it.






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