2210 with R1 s--why did I wait so long : John Deere Review  -- John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum and Review 2210 with R1 s--why did I wait so long : John Deere Review -- John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum

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 07-24-2004, 21:10 Post: 91830
b8fish



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 2210 with R1 s--why did I wait so long

After using my 2210 with turfs for box blading and loader work around our soon to be timber frame barn--in soil that has a lot of clay, I finally gave up and ordered some R1's. Holy Cow can this machine work! I guess it was so different than my old 425 (rear drive only with R1's) just having the MFWD that I didn't realize what I was missing out on. The R1's didn't even do much to the lawn during the first mowing, and I can still work around the barn in the rain instead of just slipping around.






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 07-24-2004, 22:23 Post: 91836
rogermo



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 2210 with R1 s--why did I wait so long

Glad you like your r1, I too went from low tread to r1 on my jd455 4 years ago. I have a question for you off beat of what you were talking about. I just order a 4110 and will be ready to pick up on Monday. I do a lot of loader work. How did you find your 2210 with bucket work have you tried to dig up undisturbed earth with grass in it. I found my old 455 was not real great at breaking up soil. Had to work at it very hard. Was just wonder what you found compairing your old tractor with your 2210 and if I will find much of a change.
have fun with your tractor
Roger






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 07-25-2004, 05:48 Post: 91841
bmeyer



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 2210 with R1 s--why did I wait so long

B8FISH,

I just took delivery of my 2210 on Friday. GREAT MACHINE! While I'm still waiting for the loader I do have the back blade.

Now I'm a ROOKIE with this stuff - what tips do you (or others) have for using that back blade to smooth out a trail in my woods. It seems like when I pull it it makes an unlevel surface. I'm assuming that's because the rear wheels are following the rough ground and I can't (haven't learned) to use the 3pt well yet. Am I better off to reverse the blade a "push" the soil thereby making a smoother surface for the rear wheels?

Can't wait to get the loader - maybe that's the answer in the first place.






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 07-25-2004, 06:33 Post: 91843
mcgavic1



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 2210 with R1 s--why did I wait so long

Get a cheap 4' box blade from Rural King, TSC, or Quality and level that trail the way you want. A box blade can be angled slightly with teeth down and will smooth that surface out.






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 07-25-2004, 08:04 Post: 91847
TomG

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 2210 with R1 s--why did I wait so long

The blade goes up and down opposite the front wheels too. It'll drop the blade and gouge before a bump when the fronts go over a hill if the blade angle is too aggressive, and it'll lift the blade when cresting hill as well.

How much the blade follows the ground contour is controlled by the 3ph float. A 3ph is in float when its position is set lower than an implement that's resting on level ground. That determines how low it can go. 3ph's aren't held on the ground and they all will float up over hard spots. Lowering the position increases the amount of float. The blade weight and attack angle rather than the 3ph position determines the cutting action.

For leveling wash board with a blade, some angling helps keep the blade from dropping into the dips so tends to cut the tops off and fill the dips. It also moves material off to the side where it may have to be re-spread. A scrapper with side plates can carry material on the front of its blade.






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 07-25-2004, 10:46 Post: 91863
DRankin



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 2210 with R1 s--why did I wait so long

You might need to wait until the FEL is available to balance the load. I suspect the box scraper might be enough to pull your front wheels off the ground.






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 07-25-2004, 18:58 Post: 91878
b8fish



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 2210 with R1 s--why did I wait so long

I found the loader to dig fairly well (but I do have a toothbar on mine)in grassy soil, I can dig about 2 feet down--I think that the toothbar gets me an extra couple of inches in that category as well. Boxblading is definitely an art--and I am still learning. I do find it easier to level with the boxblade than a rear blade. Best of Luck. Todd






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 07-26-2004, 02:12 Post: 91892
Wildman1



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 2210 with R1 s--why did I wait so long

I maintain a 1800' gravel airstrip with a 5' blade. The "bones" get blown off to the sides by propwash. I reverse the blade and drag the gravel back to the center with the blade at a 30 degree angle. Then with 2 windrows of gravel in the center I drag the blade with no angle at max speed. This throws the windrows out and leaves a slight crown. I have to use extra wieght (nieghbor standing on the blade) to get it to drag enough gravel. Then we compact and oil. Perfecto! Haven't needed the box blade for this yet.

I've used the 48" box in my landscaping projects alot. Haven't needed the tines down but once. The angle set by the top link is critical and takes practice. It's an art.






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 07-26-2004, 02:17 Post: 91893
Wildman1



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 2210 with R1 s--why did I wait so long

I've dug the s''t out of my lot with the 2210's loader. Put in 3 gardens 12" deep and dug out a steep bank for retaining walls. The toothbar definitely makes a loader dig. For tearing through sod for small jobs I use a homemade single blade ripper. It also doubles as a trencher for burying cable (T.V.). See my pics. The R-1's are a must for this work, and they don't mess my grass up...in 2WD. Watch it in 4WD...and make wide radius turns.






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 07-26-2004, 05:53 Post: 91899
bmeyer



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 2210 with R1 s--why did I wait so long

Thanks for the tips - all very useful. I "played" last night and found that by reversing the blade and pushing the soil I could get better results than pulling - at least for smoothing the rough areas. Tonight I'll try angling the blade as suggested above. I've got LOTS of small Aspen roots. Maybe the Box Blade with teeth would cut through that easier??

I'll be heading to a TSC in the Cities this weekend to look for other toys. Wildman, I was interested in that single tooth blade (pic #4) for trenching - where can I guy see one?






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