JD4200FOR A SMALL FARM 
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 05-29-1999, 00:00 Post: 4463
JMS



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 JD4200FOR A SMALL FARM

I currently live in southeastern Michigan and own 15 acres of land with a combination of woods, pasture, and lawn. I am considering the JD4200 with bar(R1) tires. I will not be using this tractor to mow my lawn due to the fact that I need the bar(R1) tires for the work I will be doing in the horse pens which can somtimes get very muddy. I am also planning on filling the rear tires with cholride. I will also be using the tractor for loader work around the house such as lanscaping and general dirt moving.I am also looking at clearing some trails in our woods.For all of the above metioned I am looking at the JD420 loader with hood guard, bucket level indicator, and 61" bucket. No ballast box will be needed due to the fact that I will have a rear attachment on most I of the time. I am also cosidering pallet forks for moving hay and other small farm related itms. How wide is the fork carriage and hiow long are the actual forks? Also how long does it take to switch between bucket and pallet forks? Does it really only take 3 min. to take the whole loader assembly off? I will be taking it off quite a bit. I will be using this machine to mow my pasture. The terrain is somewhat hilly and will have objects such an as rocks or some twigs scattered around. Does anyone have a recomondation on which JD rotary cutter to get? Another attachment I will use frequently will be a rear blade. This wiil be used to scape paddocks. clear trails, and general grading. I am currently planning on getting the JD45 rear blade in the 6' width. Is the size I have mentioned a good choice? Does JD make good rear blades? I am also cosidering the Land Pride FS500 broadcast spreader for fertilizing the pasture and spreading sand on the driveway in the winter. I need a strong reliable trans. for the scraing and loader work. I like the hydro. but I am worried about this trans. strength and reliability. I am also considering these options: Rear worklight kit, engine-coolant heater, trans. heater, and DSCV. The rear worklight kit should be useful since I work during the week and do a lot of my tractor work at night. The heaters may not be needed because I keep it in either the barn or the garage. But nithier of these places are heated. Comments from current owner or others with useful advice on my suituation are appreciated. Thanks in advance.






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 05-29-1999, 00:00 Post: 4464
JMS



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 JD4200FOR A SMALL FARM

Hey guys me again. Just to let you know I would be getting the MFWD option because of the loader work that I will be doing. Once again comments are appreciated. Thanks!






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 05-29-1999, 00:00 Post: 4466
Norm



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 JD4200FOR A SMALL FARM

I can give you my opinions on some of your issues. MFWD is an absolute must - don't even consider doing loader work without it, you won't be able to back out of the pile once you've off-loaded the rear wheels. The loader really does come off in about 3 min - 2 1/2 of which is cleaning and decoupling the hydraulics. Don't worry about the strength and reliability of the HST. I have it on my 755 and if I start to strain it, I just go down into low range and I'll break 4WD traction before (albeit with turf tires) I load down the machine. If you are going to do alot of loader work, you will find the HST a real blessing. HST will, however, steal a few extra HP from the PTO - for example a geared 20 hp tractor would normally have about 18 hp on the PTO - my 755 has 15.






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 05-29-1999, 00:00 Post: 4475
Mark_in_NH



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 JD4200FOR A SMALL FARM

> considering the JD4200 ...looking at the JD420 loader ... Does it really only > take 3 min. to take the whole loader assembly off?It doesn't really take me nearly that long, and I am a complete neophyte. The current level of engineering design on loaders for compacts from the major brands is impressive. It doesn't take any tools or the slightest effort, beyond finding a level spot to leave the loader and climbing off to disconnect the hydraulics.> how long does it take to switch between bucket and pallet forks?It should be _very_ rapid - this is another no-tool procedure involving 2 lynch pins. BTW, I'd be interested in what sort of price you find for the pallet forks. My dealer quoted an amount that took my breath away.> which JD rotary cutter to get?I like my Bush Hog SQ-600 quite a bit, and picked it after looking at JD's 513.> considering these options: Rear worklight kit, engine-coolant heater, > trans. heater, and DSCV.The rear worklight is supposedly only about $30, and I very much wish I'd gotten it. I'll get it installed next service. You have to have a dual selective control valve to operate the loader (or do you mean an _additional_ one?) I live in New Hampshire, and my dealer said they'd be happy to do the coolant heater, but that it is completely unnecessary for New England winters, especially if the tractor is stored in a covered area (even in my unheated barn).If you're willing to skip the hydro trans, you should be able to get a 4300 synch-reverser for the price of a 4200 hydro, and have some chance of getting it this year.






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