JD 970 Cranks won t start HELP : John Deere Review  -- John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum and Review JD 970 Cranks won t start HELP : John Deere Review -- John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum

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 08-08-2002, 20:04 Post: 41084
martinjacoby
2002-08-08 20:04:02
Post: 41084
 JD 970 Cranks won t start HELP

I am having a problem with a JD 970, 600 hours, always runs great, well maintained.
Recently the battery has been dead, and it was jump started on a daily basis with a 'jumper 1000 12v portable power source', basically a portable battery charger/jumper which has an ac adapter to charge it up. This always worked fine and the tractor would start up, but would not start without it.

The battery was removed so it could be taken and charged at a local shop. In the mean time the machine needed to be moved, and instead of re-installing the battery and jumping, the 'jumper 1000' was just connected to the battery leads and the tractor started right up. Then the 'jumper 1000' was disconnected and the machine stalled.

The original battery was re-installed, and then the 'jumper 1000' was re-hooked up, as usual...only this time, the machine cranks but will not start...

As murphey's law would have it I need to have this machine for the weekend as I am in middle of major project...

I am wondering, did/could using the 'jumper 1000' as a replacement battery or disconnecting it while the machine was running have caused some type of malfuction in the ignition/fuel system, or am I missing something else.

ANY Help woul dbe greatly appreciated. - Thanks






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 08-08-2002, 21:25 Post: 41085
jd110_1963



Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: westminster, md
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 87
 JD 970 Cranks won t start HELP

I can't imagine that use of the jumper caused any problems. Unless, of course the connections were reversed inadvertently. When you put the battery back in, did the starter crank without the aid of the jumper? Apparently your alternator is not charging since the engine stalled when the jumper was unhooked, although I have never attempted to see if one would keep running without a battery. Some cars will do this. All this aside, you now appear to have a problem with the solenoid that moves the shut-off linkage on the injection pump. Have you checked fuses? If you can locate the fuel shut-off solenoid, if you unhook the link and move the pump lever by hand , the tractor should start. There should be three wires going to the solenoid. One is a ground, one should have power when cranking, and the other should have power when the key is in the run position. I hope this helps.






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 08-08-2002, 22:29 Post: 41087
DH83
2002-08-08 00:00:00
Post: 41087
 JD 970 Cranks won t start HELP

WITH OUT THE BATTERY INSTALLED TO TAME THE HIGH VOLTAGE OF
"JUMPER 1000" WHEN YOU TURNED THE KEY ON IT SENT 18+ VOLTS
TO THE FUEL SHUT OFF SOLENOID AND FRIED IT.IF YOUR LUCKY
YOU JUST LET THE SMOKE OUT OF THE FUSE.I ASSUME THE 970
HAS A ELECTRIC SHUT OFF AND NOT A MANUAL SHUT OFF.I HOPE
THIS HELPS.....GOOD LUCK






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 08-08-2002, 05:40 Post: 41089
martinjacoby
2002-08-08 00:00:00
Post: 41089
 JD 970 Cranks won t start HELP

Thanks for the quick replies gentleman, based on your posts, I located fuse box, and found blown 3 amp fuse, replaced and machine started right up...my head was in a fog last night, and not thinking clearly, but your posts brought me in the right direction... THANKS AGAIN - MJ






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 08-08-2002, 06:09 Post: 41090
TomG

TP Contributor

Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Upper Ottawa Valley
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 5406
 JD 970 Cranks won t start HELP


I think DH's explanation likely is what's going on. The safety interlock circuits are fused as well. Batteries make pretty good voltage/current sinks. I believe that 18V is fairly typical output for charger start positions and starter packs. The internal resistance of the battery lugs the starter pack voltage down. Often these things are used with bad or discharged batteries that have low internal resistances, and high voltages are needed to sustain adequate voltage for the starter.

I'd certainly check the fuses. If the lights still work, any main or fusible link would be good. A manual should indicate if there are any fuses in places other than the fuse block. Since I had some mystery problems that turned out to be dirty fuse holders, I don't rely on appearance to tell if a fuse is good. I put a VOM the holder contacts on each side of a fuse. This procedure also checks to see if voltage is getting to the input as well as the output side of a fuse.

I also was pressed for time when I discovered a shot battery. A hydrometer test after a period of charging indicated most cells were shot. There aren't any nearby tractor dealers. To get my work done, I put in an automotive battery of similar dimensions. It had the same amp hour rating and better cold cranking amps than a NH replacement. The venting in some automotive batteries is inappropriate for tractors and some 'ventless' types don't have enough CCA's in a battery that's small enough for a tractor. You should be able to tell that I'm not recommending using an automotive battery, but mine has been fine for several years.

I did clean the cable terminals and the tractor end of the ground cable before installing the new battery. It doesn't take too much corrosion before starting is hard and the battery doesn't adequately recharge. I put a 1 Amp charger on the battery for a day periodically to keep it fully charged. I sometimes leave the charger on the battery during cold spells during the winter. Time permitting, Id check out the entire electrical system. Jump starting on a regular basis indicates something is wrong.






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