Go Bottom1070 burning too much oil
 | Charles Andrews
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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2002-06-16 39598
Have a JD 1070 mfwd. Uses about 1 to 1 1/2 quarts per 50 hrs. Using Rotella 30 wt. Last oil change I added a quart of Rislone to get any bad stuff out. That was about 30 hours ago and have had to add a quart of oil already. I use this tractor mostly for bushhog work, mostly my old 5ft doing pretty rough stuff, but sometimes my MX6 for field work. Was wondering if anyone has rebuilt one of these motors and checking to see what their expenses were. Bore and hone, oversize pistons etc. versus deglazing and new rings/bearings. Any thoughts? Thanks, Charles
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
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2002-06-17 39606
I've done the in vehicle ridge-ream, pistons out the top, hone, clean, and new rings and bearing inserts trick on a gas engine that was a serious oil-burner. I also miced all parts to ensure that everything was still within spec.
I knew beforehand that the real oil burning culprit was the valve-guides. At least on gas engines the guides tend to wear before anything else, and the valve heads and seats are the next to go. My Ford engine used rubber boots around the valve stems for oil seals. Around 70,000 miles, the boots crack and there would be enough wear on the guides so oil gets sucked down the intake valve stems.
That sort of thing is common on gas engines, but less so on diesels since there's much less intake manifold vacuum. I figured that it didn't make much sense to tear down the engine without doing the head properly. So I had all the machining done and used new valves, guides and head bolts, which is a major expense in a rebuild. The cylinders, pistons and crank journals were well within spec, but I figured that I might as well put in new standard sized parts as long as the engine was tore down. If the parts were out of spec, then removing the block, a complete tear down and re-machining is required. Using oversized parts without proper machining doesn't work although there are some ‘cheapy' techniques.
All things considered, it's sort of a pain to do a partial rebuild and the results aren't that long lasting. If the tractor has adequate power and isn't making bad sounds, I'd probably keep adding oil, and maybe thicker oil. The reason I did the partial rebuild on the Ford is to pass an emissions test.
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 | Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
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2002-06-17 39610
You didn't give the hours of the tractor and that would tell us more as to what procedures might work the best. Maunfacturers have standards that say about a quart in 8 hours acceptable to them for warrantee purposes but that does also change depending on the size of the engine. ....
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| DavidJ
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 62 Alabama
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2002-06-17 39615
I agree with Art, it would be more informative to know the hours on the unit. It would also be helpful to know if it's burning the oil or if it's a leak somewhere. A quart every 50 hours doesn't sound that excessive especially the way you describe using it. But that wasn't your question.
If you do a complete rebuild it'll probably cost you about $1500.00 - $2500.00 depending on what's done. If you do it yourself you should be able to save several hundred dollars on the rebuild.
If you can figure out where the oil's going you may find out that you don't need a complete rebuild.
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| Charles Andrews
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2002-06-17 39634
Tractor has about 745 hours on it now. Notice blue smoke at low load and idle. When I am doing hard work, pto rpm exhaust is clear and sometimes black if I hit a load. Does that help? no leaks, I check it over pretty thorough. Thanks
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-06-18 39637
I'm assuming that blue oil smoke is what there is rather than gray smoke that would indicate a different problem.
I wonder if the smoke comes from the exhaust pipe, crankcase breather or both. Generally, you to burn more oil under heavy loads if the rings are bad and some of the smoke should be blow-by from the crankcase breather.
If it's burning oil at lower rpm's and light loads, it sounds more like my Ford valve guide problem. I've heard of diesel engines where an oil feed line to the rocker arm was disconnected, which put a lot of oil on top of the head. I've also heard of engines where an oil galley plug on the end of the rocker arm came out with the same results. I didn't hear if it was oil smoke or low oil-pressure that pointed to the problems, but probably both would be present. As noted, the oil consumption might be considered within a normal range. If it’s not, at 750-hours I would expect some sort of part failure rather than engine wear that would required re-building.
Occasionally you hear of stuck, or stacked rings that produce oil smoke and the problem clears after some use and possible with the assistance of an oil additive. However, blow-by usually would be present with this sort of problem.
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| keoke 2
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2002-07-15 40413
Hi, I think the 1070 is a tubro engine. If that is correct, check the tubro bearing oil seals for leakage into exhaust stream.
cheers,
george ....
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| Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
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2002-07-16 40415
I would suspect with the added info on the low hours for a 1070 that you should just look at deglazing the cylinder walls and could put it back together. I don't believe that you should need more than a deglazing unless like Tom said a part has failed. But there should be a tube coming down from the engine for crankcase ventilation. What are you getting out of there? That could be plugged and causing your problem. By manufacturers standards I don't think they would consider the engine out of spec's. ....
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 | Peters
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 3034 Northern AL
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2002-07-16 40422
Keoke maybe right if there is a turbo on the tractor. It is very easy for the bearing to wear in the turbo and provide excessive oil burn.
I had one turbo rebiult at new England Turbo and updated the turbo with water cooling jackets on the bearing. A place like New England Turbo would replace the bearing for ~ 100$.
Peters ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-07-17 40437
Yes, turbo seals would sure do it. Living in the compact tractor world, it's easy enough to forget that turbos exist. I don't know but I'm just accepting that a 1070 has a turbo. Assuming that keoke 2 is the same person as Keoke, his previous comments have been accurate.
I haven't been around turbos enough to know if a leaky seal would produce smoke only at low rpm's and loads and also with a lack of blow-by, but it seems like a good explanation. I also find it easier to accept the idea of a seal going bad at 750 hours than the other explanations I've come up with.
I've always heard that cooling down a diesel at slow idle after a hard run is good, but that a cool down is particularly important for turbo equipped diesels. I don't know if inadequate cool downs would contribute to seal failure.
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| Fitch
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 23 Southern California High Desert
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2002-07-24 40655
The JD-1070 is not a turbo Diesel. It has a 116.3 cubic inch 4 cylinder naturally aspirated Diesel rated 35 pto HP at 2,700 rpm.
Fitch ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-07-25 40661
Well, so much for the turbo seal theory I guess. I wonder what's going on with the engine. ....
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| Peters
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 3034 Northern AL
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2002-07-25 40662
If the valve guides are the problem then the engine will start with it running very blue smoke and it will clear as is runs. The oil on the valve stems will leak down once the engine is stopped. Once is running a while there will be little smoke even at idle. There should be exhaust in the breather tube.
If the head is warped or cracked and oil is leaking from the oil journal into the cylinder then on cylinder pressure will be low. The problem with this senerio is that the pressures in a diesel cylinder heat are so high it should be pushing exhaust into the oil. You need to check cylinser pressure and the breather.
If the oil rings are bad the engine should burn blue consistantly and buff under high load. ....
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| Fitch
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 23 Southern California High Desert
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2002-07-25 40668
Compression check highly recommended. It is imperative to know what is causing the excess oil consumption before trying to decide on remedial action. A compression check will yield very useful data in this situation. If you don't have the FSM for the tractor, have the dealer or another competent Diesel mechanic do it.
Reading the initial post I am confused about the status of the Rislone. I'm assuming it was poured into the crank case, the engine idled for a few minutes and then it was drained out with the oil. But I have to ask, is it still in the engine? If so, I'd suggest immediately draining the oil and changing the filter.
Given the combustion pressures in a Diesel, and the resulting pounding that the wrist pin and rod bearings take, using an oil thinner like Rislone that reduces the ability of the oil to withstand high pressures with out allowing metal to metal contact in bearings is not a good idea. If the oil has been changed regularly, there shouldn't be a need to clean the engine at only 775 hours.
Diesel engine oil is generally pretty black and messy looking compared to gas engine oil.
Fitch ....
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 | Billy
Join Date: Oct 1999 Posts: 975 Southeast Oklahoma 
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2002-07-25 40669
A friend of mine has a MF tractor that used a quart of oil every hundred hours. He was using Rotella but switched to Mystick. He said the oil consumption has stopped. If it worked for him, it may work for you. It won't cost ya anything to try it, on your next oil change. Good luck.
Billy ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-07-26 40680
I wonder what break-in procedures were followed and if the engine always burnt some oil. There is a bunch of fact and myth about break-in procedures and I'm not sure I don't mix the two. However, I believe that it's possible for poor break-in procedures to prevent the rings on an engine from properly 'seating.' I quoted the term 'seating' because I've never heard an explanation of the mechanics of ring seating.
Some motorcycles are used hard right out of the show room. The header pipes have about a foot of bluing on them. Mechanics try to avoid working on them because they tend to be masses of problems, and they burn oil. The gas engines I've rebuild haven't been oil burners following the break-in. However, I had a shop rebuild the engine in my 1/2-ton. It burnt a liter every 2,000-km despite my extreme break-in procedures. I started worrying that the shop didn't do some work they said they had, but at about 20,000 KM on the rebuild, it simply stopped burning oil, and it has about 50,000 km on it now.
Don't know, but if the tractor has normal power, easy starting and normal operating temperature and oil pressure, I think I'd put factory speced oil in it and keep topping it up until there's a definite performance problem or abnormal noise.
A short time after I posted this, I realized that there is slight risk to the idea of just keep using it. If the problem is a broken ring, then the cylinder wall may become scored and continued use would increase the damage.
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