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Gator won t idle

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gatordun
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 11 Racine, Wisconsin
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2009-12-13          167461

Just picked up a 99 JD Gator. Runs great with the throttle engaged, but it will not stay running at Idle. Any ideas?

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pony976
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 9 new trip[oli pa
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2009-12-13          167470

check the low mix needle on the carb? ....

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gatordun
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 11 Racine, Wisconsin
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2009-12-14          167478

Thanks, I'll give it a try. We went through the fuel deliver system also. (Gas lines, regulator, etc). We have not looked at the carb. The gator has been sitting for 9 years untouched. I drained all the old oil, (No gas to drain ) changed the plug, new gas, new 5w 20 oil,new battery and of course sea foam. After about 2-5 minutes of turning it over, she started. Thanks for the tip. I'll keep you posted. ....

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pony976
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 9 new trip[oli pa
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2009-12-14          167479

sea foam is great stuff...give the carb a god soaking in it. Unless gaskets are bad sea foam often saves you the rebuild. Does it idle with the choke on? ....

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gatordun
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 11 Racine, Wisconsin
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2009-12-14          167485

Will give the sea foam a try in carb...never thought of that. It really doesn't idle well at all. We did get it close. We have to constantly manually adjust the throttle or choke to keep it going. when we get it going and keep the throttle engaged, it runs very strong. ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2009-12-14          167487

On many gas engines vacuum leaks show up as idle problems. You can take a spray can of something like Gumout and spray it around the gaskets (base of carburetor and two halves of the carburetor itself) and if the engine speed changes then likely there is a leak. ....

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gatordun
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 11 Racine, Wisconsin
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2009-12-14          167489

Thanks...I'll give it try too. ....

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2009-12-14          167490

Kawasaki engine?

//greg// ....

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gatordun
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 11 Racine, Wisconsin
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2009-12-14          167497

Yep...Kawasaki...thoughts? ....

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2009-12-14          167498

I have a 2003 Kawasaki 15hp V-twin in a riding mower that does the same thing about every 18 months. I replace the fuel pump, the problem goes away for another 18 months. Aggravating that a $35 fuel pump only last a season and a half, but it fixes the problem every time.

//greg// ....

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gatordun
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 11 Racine, Wisconsin
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2009-12-14          167500

Thanks for the heads up...We took the fuel pump out cleaned and inspected it. Still did the same thing. Others on this blog and people I know keep pointing me back to the carb. I'm going to give it a good cleaning,(soaking it in Sea Foam overnight). If the problem continues, I will look at the fuel pump again. Thanks for the tip. ....

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2009-12-14          167501

The kind on my engine are plastic vacuum-type pumps, completely sealed units. One or both diaphragms inside apparently rupture over time. No amount of cleaning can fix that. And because it's a vacuum pump - that's leaking - it gives the same symptoms as any other vacuum leak

//greg// ....

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gatordun
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 11 Racine, Wisconsin
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2009-12-14          167502

Sounds very close to mine. I've got it soaking in sea foam now.we'll see what happens. if it doesn't work, I'll know what to try next. Thanks again. ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2009-12-15          167505

If the machine is electric start you might see if it's feasible to eliminate the factory fuel pump and install a small regulated electric fuel pump. ....

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gatordun
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 11 Racine, Wisconsin
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2009-12-15          167517

That sounds interesting. If I get the specs on the motor, can you recomend a product to use? ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2009-12-15          167522

The last time I retrofitted an electric fuel pump to anything was 20 years ago. But all they need is 12 volts and either a built in or external regulator to limit the fuel pressure. Doesn't have to be fancy, just fit it between the fuel tank and the carburetor inlet and you can fuse it and install an dedicated switch to turn it on and off. Sometimes it's a lot harder to retrofit depending on piping, etc. ....

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gatordun
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 11 Racine, Wisconsin
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2009-12-15          167528

Thanks...The area is wide open and easy to get at. Perhaps this is the way to go.

....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2009-12-15          167530

I don't know anything about that engine but it's possible you'd have to remove and block off or cap the pump nipples to eliminate any vacuum leak that may be caused by the pump. You might be able to rig up a gravity feed of some sort to test the theory (a can of fuel gravity feeding into the carb) and cap off the fuel pump lines. Not sure that would work but it's probably something I'd try (hope you don't smoke and keep a fire extinguisher nearby :))

....

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gatoraider
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 544 Maryland
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2009-12-16          167531

Gatordun, If I had a 4x2 that was sitting for nine years the first place I would go is the carb, It's gotta be plugged up. You have to take EVERYTHING out of and off the carb and clean ALL the passages with compressed air and carb cleaner. I would almost bet you have a plugged up air jet or air jet passage. Look down the barrel of your carb and you will see two small holes on either side at the base of the bell. They may have small jets in them or they may not. One side will line up with the air jet and the metering screw for the air/fuel mix. If they have jets in them, remove them. Make sure you keep them seperate so you can put them back the same way. Next in line is the air jet, take it out and you will see a hole on two or three sides of it. there is also a hole in the end. If you hold it in your fingers so you have one or two of the holes plugged you should be able to shoot carb cleaner thru the remaining hole and out the hole in the end. Rotate the jet and do this with all holes. Use a nozzle on your carb cleaner can and put directly over the hole. It should flow freely out that end hole. If you have to clear the end hole, use the smallest cleaner on a tourch tip cleaning set. The size of that hole is very critical so you don't want to change it with any probe. I think your problem is there. Next in line is the metering screw. Screw it in and count how many turns it takes to bottom out so you can put it back in the same position. After you remove the screw, shoot carb cleaner thru from the front to the back and blow out with compressed air. I would do it 8 to 10 times. Clean all the parts and put it back together and I think you will see a difference. ....

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gatordun
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 11 Racine, Wisconsin
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2009-12-16          167537

Now thats what I'm talking about...Great instuctions. For now, I've only soaked the carb in Sea Foam. I guess its a good start and won't hurt anything. I will take the carb off and follow your instructions soon as I can. Thanks for the "step/step"! Even I can follow these!

Jim ("Gator~Dun") ....

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Grinnn
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 4 Concord NH
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2010-01-25          168225

I hate that carb setup. First thing to ask is where is the gator from? Emission compliant engine, in its hay day tuned just barely the fuel to keep running at idle. surely way out of spec with just a few mils of corosion. In cold wheather dealers were forced to rejet out of the crate. There is an idle adjustment just below the breather. need to drive in a small pick and pry out the aluminium plug. back that out 1/2 to 3/4 turn and you should be in business. But once you smooth it out there are two idle speed adjustments. One on your carb set to 900 so it dont stall. screw under the steel plate where the cable and governer lives need to be 1000 to 1050 so you dont junk out your clutch. Hope this helps ....

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