Farm Pro 2425 4WD working : Jinma Farmpro Agracat  -- Chinese Tractors Discussion Forum and Review Farm Pro 2425 4WD working : Jinma Farmpro Agracat -- Chinese Tractors Discussion Forum

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 07-25-2011, 06:51 Post: 179525
farmpro_newb



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 Farm Pro 2425 4WD working

Hi and greetings to all here. I am new to tractors as I am sure will be obvious from my many questions and posts so my apologies upfront.
I finally worked on and got my 2004 2425 up and running and am playing with it a bit in my yard. I quickly got it stuck trying to push a medium size pine over with the FEL. All this while in 2WD. I thought I could finish the job or have better luck by putting it into 4WD. The lever seemed to engage ok but saw little difference in power or any benefit at all. My rear tires still spun but I never saw either of the front ones spin or did they seem to be benefiting me. Is there a quick and easy way to tell if my 4WD is engaging and working as it should? Thanks!






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 07-25-2011, 07:14 Post: 179526
farmpro_newb



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 Farm Pro 2425 4WD working

PS: If the is a neutral position between 2WD - 4WD it appears the shifting travel to go to 2WD is (top of control lever) about 4 inches but towards the 4wd position only about 1 inch. Am I even getting i it into 4WD? I put it into what I thought was 4WD, raised the front tires off the ground using the FEL yet the front tires spun easily by hand with only a slight clicking sound while spinning. Maybe I am not even getting her into 4WD at all? If not, what might I be doing wrong here?

Thanks again,
Newb






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 07-25-2011, 07:22 Post: 179527
greg_g



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 Farm Pro 2425 4WD working

Many first time owners experience equipment failures when learning the difference between tractor work and bulldozer work. Tractors are for pulling, front loaders are for lifting/carrying, bulldozers are for pushing. Opinions and conditions vary, but I'd consider pushing over medium sized trees to be dozer work.

Anyway. Rears spinning with no rotation at the fronts definitely means 4wd not fully engaged for some reason. Several things can cause this, a very common one is the driveshaft has become disconnected. But being stuck against a tree is not a very good situation in which for inspect/repair. Because you need to jack the front end off the ground to perform a test to help isolate the location of the problem. Hard to do that stuck up against a tree.

Can you tow it backwards to a flat surface somewhere to perform this test, and so that - if necessary - you could get underneath to remove the driveshaft housing? I say this because there are many small parts that may fall out. And they ALL have to go back in to get the shaft reconnected properly.

//greg//






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 07-25-2011, 07:25 Post: 179528
hardwood

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 Farm Pro 2425 4WD working

Hello and welcome to Tractor Point. We ned some new menbers with questions and every new poster has some answers to help us old timers too.
I don't like to welcome a new member with a scolding, BUT you tell of trying to push over a tree with your front end loader. Lots of people have been killed or bad hurt doing just that and not just people who were new to tractors. I lost a friend a few years ago, he was an a man in his fifties who had ran tractors since a kid. He was trying to push over a good sized tree that just wouldn't go down after being sawed off. I did this myself too, just once, but was lucky and didn't get hurt, I've never did that again.
Frank.






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 07-25-2011, 07:32 Post: 179529
greg_g



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 Farm Pro 2425 4WD working

Quote:
Originally Posted by farmpro_newb | view 179526
PS: If the is a neutral position between 2WD - 4WDit appears the shifting travel to go to 2WD is (top of control lever) about 4 inches but towards the 4wd position only about 1 inch. Am I even getting i it into 4WD? I put it into what I thought was 4WD, raised the front tires off the ground using the FEL yet the front tires spun easily by hand with only a slight clicking sound while spinning. Maybe I am not even getting her into 4WD at all? If not, what might I be doing wrong here?Thanks again,Newb


The clicking noise is not normal, but we'll get back to that. The tractor almost always needs to be motion to get a positive engagement between the transmission and the transfer case. Specifically, the front differential is connected full time to the front of the driveshaft. The 2wd/4wd select lever engages the back end of the driveshaft. So when the fronts are turning, so is the driveshaft. But with all geared devices, they have to line up to engage. So the front tires need to rotate slightly which turns the driveshaft which lines up the gears which permits the lever to slide into the correct position.

Again, can you get something in there to tow the tractor out of the ruts?

//greg//






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 07-25-2011, 07:45 Post: 179530
farmpro_newb



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 Farm Pro 2425 4WD working

Thanks for such a quick reply greg!

I got the tractor unstuck and all. My concern is I bought what I thought was a tractor with working 4WD and now am trying to ascertain if it works, how well it works and I suppose when to use it. I thought I read somehwere here that using 4WD and the FEL at the same time is not advisable? My manuals are not real bounties of information here.... Am I right in thinking that if the 4WD is indeed engaged and I get the front wheels up off the ground with the engine turned off the front wheels should not turn easily or freely? Thanks again.






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 07-25-2011, 08:38 Post: 179531
farmpro_newb



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 Farm Pro 2425 4WD working

Quote:
Originally Posted by greg_g | view 179529
The clicking noise is not normal, but we'll get back to that. The tractor almost always needs to be motion to get a positive engagement between the transmission and the transfer case. Specifically, the front differential is connected full time to the front of the driveshaft. The 2wd/4wd select lever engages the back end of the driveshaft. So when the fronts are turning, so is the driveshaft. But with all geared devices, they have to line up to engage. So the front tires need to rotate slightly which turns the driveshaft which lines up the gears which permits the lever to slide into the correct position. Again, can you get something in there to tow the tractor out of the ruts?//greg//




Thanks again all for the help and advice, is appreciated!

I call it a medium size tree but is really 2" round.
Anyway, the tractor is in my garage and all. I surely seemed to feel it engage into 4WD but which tests might I now perform to know? with it in 4 or 2 WD and the front tires off the ground I turn the right side tire forward and the left side goes opposite. It is not a clicking sound so much as a slight differential sound but doesn't seem too horrible. AT any rate I will do my best to use the tractor for it's intended purposes.






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 07-25-2011, 09:43 Post: 179532
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 Farm Pro 2425 4WD working

Ok, front wheels turning oppositely with no unusual noise is what you want to see, which confirms that it's rotating normally in 2wd. The front diff that is. This doesn't necessarily mean the driveline is connected properly. Next move the lever to 4wd with the tranny in neutral, and both wheels should turn in the same direction. Lever in 4wd and tranny in gear should result in your being unable to rotate either front wheel. You've already "passed" test #1, so next please tell me what happens when you attempt the next two tests.

Remember - assuming the driveline is properly connected at both ends - you may have to move one or both of the front tires to get the lever to move fully into the 4wd position.

//greg//






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 07-25-2011, 10:18 Post: 179533
richwaugh

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 Farm Pro 2425 4WD working

You may not be getting the lever all the way into the 4WD position - as noted, the gears have to slip a bit to line up and get it in. I put mine in 4WD while the transmission i sin gear and ease the clutch a bit while putting pressure on the lever to get things to slide home. When in 4WD the front wheels will not free wheel.

99% of the time when the 4WD is not functional on one of these tractors, the problem is with the coupling balls in the front driveshaft. It isn't difficult to fix, but you need to be parked on a level, CLEAN surface so that when you drop the driveshaft you will be able to find all the little balls that fall on the ground. There is a circular spring clip that holds the receiver for the balls in place against a spring and sometimes that clip comes loose and the coupling opens up, dropping the balls out. The power transmission shaft from the transfer case is splined and the driveshaft has a cup receiver that holds six balls that go in the splines and into corresponding slots in the cup to couple the driveshaft to the power shaft.

Getting the drivehaft to drop out can be a bit entertaining as it is a very snug fit - I had to lift my front wheels off the ground to get a tiny bit of wiggle in the front differential so it would come out. There is a rubber sleeve that must be pushed back out of the way to access the coupling end, too. It is fairly straightforward and self-explanatory once you get under there and get the sleeve back. You'll want to have some stiff grease on hand when you do it - you use it to hold the balls in place while re-assembling things. If your spring clip is broken or missing you can use a stainless steel worm-gear hose clamp instead.






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 07-25-2011, 11:10 Post: 179534
farmpro_newb



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 Farm Pro 2425 4WD working

Ok Thanks both Rich and Greg,

Looks like I need to drop the drive shaft then, as in any combination of neutral/in gear/in 4WD/2WD The front wheels when off the ground rotate thru the front differential but always in opposite directions. I will take it apart in my garage and see what it looks like and get back to you. Hopefully today. HOT here tho!! Wow. Gonna put cardboard down too as I have a stone floor and pieces get lost in them ez.. Thanks so much tho!






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Jinma Farmpro Agracat Forum

Thread 179525 Filter by Poster:
auerbach 1 | farmpro_newb 12 | greg_g 10 | hardwood 1 | richwaugh 3 |

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