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NT304C 3 point issue

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sjrogers1
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 36 Arkansas
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2010-06-15          171562

The 3 point hitch on our NT 304C doesn't want to lower very fast even with the mower hooked up. It would usualy drop fast. I notice in the book it said something about the valve in front of the seat. Did not try that yet. Any ideas?

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NT304C 3 point issue

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2010-06-15          171565

Why would you doubt the manual? It's talking about the flow control valve. Heavy implement, turn it one way. Light (or no) implement, turn it the other way. One note however, there must be no down pressure on the lift arms (implement must be on the ground) when turning the knob

//greg// ....

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NT304C 3 point issue

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sjrogers1
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 36 Arkansas
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2011-05-30          178685

We are still having the problem with lowering the 3 point on the NT304C. I tried turning the knob in front of the seat. It only made the problem worse. The problem started when we removed the loader to replace the head gasket after we did not retorque head boltss when noted. We got the head gasket replaced and during initial engine run the mechanic noted something getting hot. The loader was still off and the hydraulic lines were not reconnected to themselves. He reconnected the lines and the tractor now runs fine. The 3 point still lowers very, very slow and the loader is still removed, it raises just fine. Do we need to put the loader back on or did we damage something in the hydraulics during the initial engine run after the head gasket change? Oh and by the way we will retorque the head after we have 20 hours of run time. ....

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NT304C 3 point issue

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richwaugh
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 96
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2011-05-30          178690

Well, there's a fair chance that you screwed the pooch by running the engine with the loader hoses not connected together. What you maybe did was to "deadhead" the hydraulic pump and that may have blown the seals (best case) or cracked the case (worst case). It is also possible you didn't do any damage, if you get really lucky. If you blew the seals you'll find that your engine oil level is mysteriously increasing - that's hydraulic fluid passing the shaft seal and entering the crank case. Something to watch for.

If the TPH raises okay, then the pump is *probably* okay. Only way to tell for sure is a pressure gauge.

The TPH failing to drop is a function of the flow control valve under the front of the seat, as Greg noted. Those valves can get dirt in them, particularly if you haven't ever flushed the hydraulic system and changed to the proper USA fluid. If there is dirt in the valve it won't open fully and the hitch will not drop properly. It is easy enough to pull the valve out and clean it thoroughly and reassemble it. If that doesn't correct the problem you're now over my pay grade. ....

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NT304C 3 point issue

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2011-05-30          178694

It sounds like you have a plumbing (hose) problem somewhere.

Typically a 3pth is a one-way cylinder, that is, hydraulics lift it up, and gravity takes it back down once you open the valve.

If you have a situation where the hydraulics are pressurizing the return line, such as when you have a 'closed-center' item in an 'open-center' system or vice-versa, then there could be enough residual pressure in the system that it wont let the arms fall without enough load on them to overcome that pressure. It only takes a few PSI to make a problem.

Also take a careful look at all quick-disconnect fittings. It's easy to get one not quite seated right.

The fact that the problem arose right after the system was touched makes me think that's where the problem is.


Best of luck. ....

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NT304C 3 point issue

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sjrogers1
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 36 Arkansas
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2011-05-31          178737

To remove the flow control valve do I remove the connections and bolts. The valve is in front of the seat with the knob. The 3 point will raise OK, but lowers very, very slow. I will try cleaning the valve. I will also look at the hydralic hose connections. We also have not flushed the hydralic system. How should we proceed with that? We will probably put the loader back on as the engine seems to be fine now. Just need to retorque the head in a few more hours. I won't be back to the tractor location until next week. The pump is not leaking externaly. ....

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2011-06-01          178738

For the flow control valve, you should only have to back off a set screw recessed into the front plate (it might be painted over). Don't drop the little sucker, they're easy to lose. With the set screw removed, you should then be able to simply unscrew the valve body from the valve seat. Careful not to twist the handle off the stem though. It's probably going to come out brown (rust). Clean valve body and valve seat with diesel fuel or kerosene.

Flush with kerosene. Some use diesel because it's cheaper, but kero works better. And residual kero evaporates faster than residual diesel. Drain sump, replace drain plug, pour in kero, replace vent/fill plug. Drive around in figure 8s on rough ground while raising and lowering the rear lift and front loader. This will circulate the kero throughout, and splash into the corners above the normal fluid line.

Drain through screen or cheesecloth to catch the big chunks. That way you can reuse the kero for one or more subsequent flushes until you're satisfied it's coming out clean. Refill with AW32 or ISO32 hydraulic fluid. Exercise hydraulics again, lower rear lift and front loader before shutting off engine. Let settle for a few hours, residual kerosene should sink to the bottom. Drain until kero turns to hydraulic fluid. Check level again, top up as required.

//greg// ....

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NT304C 3 point issue

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mecbob1
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 5 Delaware
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2014-10-28          191303

I just requested 11-28-14 help for the same issue. The hitch lift works good when operated to go up but takes maybe 2 minutes to go down. I had a 6' wide leveling box attached to the hitch at the time. It had plenty of power when operated to go up even with a load of dirt in front of the leveling blade. With no load the hitch takes maybe 8 min. to go down. I wondered if I turned the control knob (below the seat) to far and that created the problem. I couldn't determine which way to turn the knob. It looked like Chinese markings on the knob. I guessed which way to go and it was difficult to turn so I put a pair of pliers to the knob. If you have a fix reply. I might take off the casting the knob is connected to & see what it looks like inside. ....

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