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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2003-09-26          64907

As many of you are probably already aware, I have designed and built a good number of various different implements over the years.... some of them were VERY different.

I have been speaking with a good friend of mine who is a custom metal fabricator, he has built several of my designs for customers over the years. We are trying to decide if we should get more into doing this.

As part of the decision-making process I am asking for input from you, the end-users, about your feelings on this.

If you had to name one single use for your machine which is not adequately covered by reasonably priced attachments for your CUT, what would it be for? Firewood gathering? Firewood processing? Transporting/moving/hauling something?

Also, if you know of some use which is not covered at all, speak up.

I look forward to your ideas.

Best of luck.


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blizzard
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2003-09-26          64917

Here's an idea which is perhaps not feasable, but would be really handy if it were:

The problem is, on the smaller tractors, the recomended maximum implement width is pretty close to the rear wheel tread. For example, in raking my drive (L3130, 72" rake) with the rake angled to put the loose stone back on the drive, I run over the stones first, and also risk dropping the tractor over the edge of the drive.

If it were possible to fabricate a 'Universal Offset Attachment' for the 3PH, without overloading it, I think it would be super to use with a bush hog, rake, snowblower, post hole auger, etc.

Just my 2cents...
bliz ....

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Art White
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2003-09-26          64922

Blizzard, how about moving up to a 7' or 8' rake. ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
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2003-09-26          64929

Here's something I've wanted for my loader.

We live in an area heavily forested with douglas fir trees.

It would be nice to have a loader attachment that would be used to prune branches up to the height that the loader will reach. I envision it working like this - you drive up to the tree, close a collar-like attachment around the tree trunk, and raise the loader vertically along the trunk. Chainsaw like devices on the collar would start spinning and cut off the branches.

Obviously you need to be sure branches don't fall on your head (not sure how to do that other than by using a cage). Also it needs to adapt to trunks of different diameters and should probably float a bit laterally so you don't have to have the tractor dead-center on the tree trunk.

Just an idea. ....

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Peters
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 3034 Northern AL
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2003-09-26          64931

I had the idea for a goose neck trailer addaptor on the 3pt. We made one up and a friend uses it all the time around the farm with large tractors.
I see another manufacture making them now. I was always worried about the impliment lifting with out the positive draft. I figured away around this but have not made one yet.
Peters ....

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harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000
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2003-09-26          64932

The attachnment bolts to the top of the bucket and is closed with hyd so you can carry a CLUMP of something. I can not remember the name, Grapple?? I've see them at web sites but they are extreamly pricey.

I'm gonna build old my self along with a wood splitter with the block lift attachment with trays for the split wood that can let the wood slide into a elevator into the wood wagon. ....

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kwschumm
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2003-09-26          64933

Here's another idea - self-leveling pallet forks.
....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2003-09-26          64936

Blizz, already been there, already done that, but it doesn't work with a PTO-driven implement since you can't flex the drive-shaft very far off-side.

The 'Murphy Pruner' already exists too, but it is a two part hydraulic operation, it first grabs the limb, then a pruner pinches off the branch. This way the branch is still 'captive' until the operator releases it. It makes it very easy to pile them in one spot, etc. The whole apparatus is mounted on the end of a boom pole like device which clamps onto the bucket.

Harvey, how many grapples do you want? Either to go on the bucket or a completely serate 3pth version, which BTW, is outstanding for gathering & carrying firewood or brush. You just back up, lower, close the jaws, raise it and drive away. Then there is no pile of whatever to look over or around if you have far to travel.

Self-levelling pallet forks for the 3pth are easy, a little complex & expensive, but easy. You also lose some lift capacity.

Keep 'em coming fellas.

Best of luck. ....

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BillMullens
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2003-09-26          64940

The 3ph mounted grapple for moving brush piles would be GREAT! Moving piles with a back blade or box blade is a big improvement over hauling in the trailer, but can be messy. CadPlans has a version of the 3ph grapple but even the plans are expensive.
Another one that is made somewhere out there, but is expensive...a PTO driven concrete mixer. The ones I've seen are bolted on the tractor frame; the 3ph controls dump the mixing drum. I guess it could be driven from a hydraulic motor instead of PTO.
Anybody get Farm Show magazine? It has these kind of implements in a newspaper-type magazine. I'd be surprised if Murf doesn't have some inventions published there...
Bill ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2003-09-27          64962

I'm still looking for a 3ph pump that has fire-fighting capabilities. Something with the specs of a Wojak Mark 4, or greater flow depending on pto hp would be desirable. It would need a 1 1/2" quick-connect discharge or adapters to go along with forestry standard hose. It also would be desirable if the pressure could be lowerd to around 80 lbs. while maintaining volume to accommodate foam equipment.

I know this isn't an invention idea exactly, it's just that it's what I'm looking for right now and can't find it. I also know that I wouldn't be putting out house fires with it since it would take too long to drive the tractor to the river and lay the hose, and I'd just get the Township's equipment anyway. It is an emergency idea though since I don't irrigate, and I can't see buying a pto pump for emergencies if it's really not adequate for fire fighting. I can't very well use Township equipment for de-silting dug well or pumping out a basement. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2003-09-29          65063

Tom, it sounds like what you want is a small agricultural irrigation-type pump. They are getting hard to find, but 2" PTO driven pumps used to be common back in the 'old days' when all you had to drive them was an 8N or a Farmall or Cub.

It should be easy enough though to rig up a large centrifugal pump to be PTO driven however it might not develop the pressure you want, especially if you have to pump uphill very far.

Best of luck. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2003-09-29          65064

Bill, a regular concrete mixer can be easily converted to #3pth mount & PTO drive.

In fact if you ask around some of the rental yards they often have old drums which have been replaced because of the buildup from not being washed out properly, they can often be had for next to nothing.

The hookup is relatively simple, any competant welder can do it in a few hours, the drive is accomplished by having the drum rest against a small rubber tire which is driven by a PTO shaft carried between two bearings.

Best of luck. ....

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DRankin
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2003-09-29          65074

There are ready made, 3 point hitch, concrete mixers on the market. Go to Notrthern Tool.com and look up part # 250816 ....

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Peters
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2003-09-29          65081

Bill, the best PTO Cement Mixer is made by Teagel in England they are imported but not cheap. I like the idea of being able to dump the mixer at height. I would like one to fit on the FEL but have not collected enough pennies yet.

....


Link:   Teagle

 
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Peters
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2003-09-29          65082

The only 3pt grapple I have seen was the ag-krane. Was this who you had seen? ....


Link:   Agkrane

 
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kwschumm
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2003-09-29          65084

That Ag-Krane looks like a nice piece of equipment but YOWSA, you'd sure need lots of front ballast to do the maneuvers they show on their web page. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2003-09-29          65089

Nobody is disputing that these things exist, I think I was misunderstood.

In my original post I used the term 'reasonably priced'.

There are many very useful, well designed & manufactured implements out there. The problem is that the large majority of them seem to be VERY expensive for what you get.

The grapple and the cement mixer are two examples of this.

What I am talking about is making up such devices using mostly 'off the shelf' parts but put together as 3pth or FEL-mounted, PTO-driven implements which are AFFORDABLE for the average user.

As an example, a friend just bought a 3pth/PTO brush chipper, it is an excellent unit. However, it is only 6" (maximum, in reality 4" on average material) capacity with no power feed and it cost a little over $3,700 before tax, etc.

This is basically a big steel box with an inlet and outlet chute and a big heavy flywheel/fan combination plate containing a couple of planer knives.

Likewise, a PTO cement mixer costs a nearly triple what a COMMERCIAL unit with it's own gas engine costs.

Everybody deserves a profit at what they do, but everybody deserves access to quality equipment at a reasonable cost also. Lack of competition should NOT affect prices.

Best of luck. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2003-09-29          65090

Ken, maybe that's why they don't show the front of even one of those tractors on their website.

Best of luck. ....

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Peters
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2003-09-29          65098

Murf;
I am not sure what you term commercial. Certainly any small mixer that I have seen brick masons use are a lot more money than the mixers I have priced.
The PTO mixers are more than the small residential mixers which are similar in design. A lot of the price is related to the inclusion of the hydraulic top link.
I could see how the Teagle type could be cheaper, but you need to find a source for an inexpensive transmission. I don't think you need that much power for the drum.
Peters
....

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harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000
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2003-09-29          65099

Murf you are right on with the prices being to high.

I can make the grapple from scrap steel a 8" hyd cylinder 2 hoses with connectors a few bolts and some welding.

I can make the wood elevator also along with the custom splitter.

Too many times it seems easier just to buy something that cost 2X more than it is really worth and still have to modify it for your particular use. Worse yet have to fix it because it was made so cheezy to start with. ....

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BillMullens
Join Date: Jun 2000
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2003-09-29          65103

Yes, I was focusing on the "inexpensive" part of the original thread-starting message.
I know that the implements I mentioned are commercially available, just to pricey for me to buy. The ROI of a PTO mixer would have to be such that it would be cheaper to build or buy than to have concrete delivered.
Murf, the chipper would be next on my list. I would have no idea on how to build one, yet they are WAY too expensive for me to buy for occasional home use. Same goes for a FEL...it would be great, I just can't justify buying one.
Thanks to all for the mixer info.
Bill ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2003-09-30          65119

Murf: Yep, finding a pump that has enough flow and also produces high enough pressure to pump up hills and still fight fires is the problem. For brush fires there has to be enough pressure so the spray can really tear up the ground. Our forestry pumps use four-stage impeller designs. I did find some fire pump manufacturers of fairly small pumps that say they'll do custom building. I imagine gearing from 540 rpm to the pump's input requirement would be the main problem. Well, maybe it's a project.

There may be some room for inventiveness around this and similar ideas. Our forestry pumps may be run unattended and they have over-speed protection that cuts off the engines if pumps loose their primes. I don't think these high-pressure pumps take kindly to running dry for very long. The protection on our pumps depends that the pump load will lug down the engine rpm, but that wouldn't work on a tractor. There may be room for interfaces between this sort of implement and tractor engines (maybe a fuel shut-off solenoid or something smarter) that would improve unattended operation. Load sensing circuitry for generators would be a similar idea. ....

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
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2003-09-30          65138

Murf, Seems to me many people with gravel roads to maintain could use an inexpensive grader..... something along the lines of a rear blade with gauge wheels only modeled along the lines of the old horse drawn units.

I have a half baked design I can send you pictures of.... ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2003-10-01          65231

I did come up with such a device a number of years ago, it was to mainain the long driveway and trails at our hunt camp. It would be easily adaptable to a CUT but was originally designed to go behind a pickup.

It was basically just a very long trailer tongue if you will, arched way up in the middle and at the very back was the front axle out of an old 3 ton (2WD) truck which was mounted rotated backwards on an angle of 45 degrees. This allowed the steering to also swivel the wheel off vertical to increase the 'bite' of the tires when making an agressive bite along the shoulder, like when you want to pull the gravel back up onto the road. Halfway between the axle and the hitch was the blade which rotated only on the horizontal plane. The vertical adjustment of the blade, as well as the pivot functions were accomplished by hydraulically pivoting a pair of hinged joints on which the axle was mounted which increased or decreased the amount of the arch. All of this was controlled by the operator who stood on a small platform at the very rear looking forward and down over everything. The hydraulics were powered by a gas engine driving a two stage hydraulic pump like that used on a wood-splitter.

I only used it one year myself, when the local road contractor saw it work he bought it on the spot, I understand he is still using it to this day to maintain private drives and roads.

The biggest advatage was it could be pulled by any pickup, however a heavy 4x4 worked best, both for traction and the ability to roll along slowly in low range. Even though this meant it required a two man crew, it also meant it go between jobs at highway speeds, something the little 'Pony' graders can't do and the savings in travel time and expense more than made up for the 2 men's time.

Send me any and all ideas or designs.

Best of luck. ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2003-10-02          65275

Sound pretty clever Murf! I started out with the idea of something like an inch worm where the tongue had a hydraulically controlled pivot point but now I think that a solid tongue is raised or lowered from the axle. Without a blade tilt, I guess it would maintain but not build crowns, but then it is a maintenance tool as you said.

I'm also guessing that the steering on the axle could be locked for highway driving. Last summer a guy down the highway sold an old sickle mower that had been converted from horses to tractors. Seems like he couldn't live without a sickle mower because he bought another one about 30 miles away. I saw him towing it back behind his truck. He was driving slowly along the shoulder. I later found out he drove the whole distance that way because every time he'd go any faster the mower wheel would start swiveling around and throwing the mower every which way on his truck ball hitch. I don't know how he hooked the mower to the truck hitch. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2003-10-02          65280

Tom, you're right on the money about the rigid tongue, however the blade does pivot side to side, I put two independantly adjustable cylinders on it to raise and lower the blade, one on each side, by adjusting one more than the other you could achieve some pretty extreme blade angles. It also changed the blade-to-earth contact angle by keeping the front rigid, thus as the blade went down further the 'cut' angle got slightly more aggressive also.

As for the steering, it was also hydraulically controlled, and was therefore locked (by the hyd. fluid) in whatever position you left it in.

When I was roading the device, the hitch to wheels distance was 18' so even if there was a little play in the steering gear it did little to the stability, besdies by tipping the axle back 45 degrees the motion in the steering gear was effectively cut way down also.

It was a 3 hour drive to the camp and it sat behind the truck at 65mph like any other trailer, it sure raised a few eyebrows from the other drivers though, especially the truckers and a police cruiser that nearly took off somebodys mailbox from paying more attention to it than the road.

Best of luck. ....

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bnrhuffman
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2003-10-03          65362

Heres something that would be complicated and rather expensive but would open up more of a market for CUTs. A scissor type of a lifting platform or manlift that would mount something like a 3PH backhoe, have its own self contained hydraulics, operated by the rear PTO and its own levelers/stabilizers. ....

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Art White
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2003-10-03          65363

There are many types of driveway maintainers that are capable of doing miles of roadways effortlessly. Those I've found to work the best do have ripper teeth and two blades one small inverted v in the front to knockout the center ridge and a rear v for gathering and distributing. ....

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Art White
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2003-10-03          65373

Murf, how about a 6' and 5' maybe 4' multi spindle dual tailwheel brush hog with offset. That way it will sit tighter to the tractor needing less front ballast and with offset making trimming a breeze. I contacted Bush-hog as they already have a 84T model which I love but they talked about not having enough room to stand the crop up under the deck to cut it. I do believe there are plenty of people that would mow more if the extra width cut the time and reduce the total height. ....

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TomG
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2003-10-03          65376

Just to throw a couple of hydraulics wrinkles into the man-lift idea: The idea is a typical application for lockout valves that have been mentioned recently. It also may be an application for indexing cylinders, which are used to keep equal cylinder heights in applications where the shafts are not connected by a strong mechanical link (like the pipe between loader arms). There are some serious safety issues, and cherry pickers have some specialized.

If somebody knows exactly how indexing cylinders work I'd be happy to hear. My impression is that they have interconnecting ports that are uncovered near to end of travel to equalize cylinder pressures. ....

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TomG
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2003-10-03          65378

Yikes! I accused myself of not thinking things through so I'll bash myself before anybody else does. I'm not certain if indexing cylinders are used where cylinders are connected in parallel and the lightest load moves first rule prevails. I heard of them once in passing but it was a platform idea. I'm mostly interested in figuring out what they are. ....

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DRankin
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2003-10-03          65391

Hey Murphy, we survived the night with no disruptions in the force! Here is a challange.... how about a top link where the body (female threads) is turned via a high torque 12 volt motor? The concept might be like what is used on powered camper jacks I would imagine.

It sure would save a lot of time and money compared to re-plumbing the hydraulic system and adding valves and hoses to an already over crowded area on a small CUT. ....

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Murf
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2003-10-03          65392

bnr, the lift is not that complicated, or expensive to build, and it's being worked on presently, a friend of mine who makes portable bandsawmills has developed a prototype which goes behind a pickup for a buddy of his who is a structural steel welder. The problem is to achieve approval from UL, etc., so that it can be widely used in commercial applications and that costs so much you have to build in big expenses taking it back to being expensive.

Art, the driveway maintainer is good idea, and if done well could be pitched as a business opportunity for the buyer.

The multi-spindle cutter is another good idea but the multiple spindles mean multiple gearboxs, which means a lot more money. Aside from all that the offset (front to back) of the two sets of blaldes required to allow them to miss each other would eat up any savings in depth created by the multi-spindle concept. I also think the extra weight of the drive-train would negate the effect of bringing it in closer.

Tom, I'm not sure what you mean by 'indexing' cylinders, any time I have seen cylinders working together they have been regulated by one of two devices.

The first is a 'load sharing' device, this type of valve splits the hydraulic flow EXACTLY in two components, each doing equal work. Notice I did not say "in half" that is because you could in theory use this type of valve with two DIFFERENT sized cylinders, but still achieve a balanced work load. This is what you would want in a FEL or lift platform use, it would prevent the lighter loaded cylinder from getting all the fluid and therefore extending out of balnce with the other one.

The second type is a 'priority type' device, this is basically a sequencer for hydraulics, it gives no fluid to the secondary port until the primary port reaches a pre-determined pressure, and the opposite when the flow is reversed, the primary port gets no flow until the secondary reaches the set pressure point. This type of device is used for things like tilt-bed trucks, it prevents the load from being transfered to the rear axle until the 'landing gear' is down to support the weight and prevent an overload on the rear suspension, likewise in reverse it would not allow the 'landing gear' to go back up until the deck was fully retracted.

Clear as mud, huh?

Best of luck. ....

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Murf
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2003-10-03          65393

Mark, you slipped up the middle while I was replying to the earlier posts.

An excellent idea, I will have a go at it for sure, even if it was such that the implement had to be lowered in order to ake the adjustment it would be better than getting off the machine and wrestling with a manual one.

May the force be with us !!!!

Best of luck, too. ....

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DRankin
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2003-10-03          65397

Hmmm..... how about a top link that ran like a floor jack..... a couple of pumps on a handle shortens it and a little bleeder valve gives it more length? ....

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Chief
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2003-10-03          65398

You know, Marks idea gave me an idea. What do you think of an electric actuator. Something similiar to an airfoil actuator. Basicly a simple electric inline linear actuator such as used on wing flaps or helicopter stabilators would do the trick. Most run off of 28 volts DC but should be available in 12 volt versions. A used or retire actuator might be had for a very reasonable price. For CUT use, it should be strong enough for blading and other similar use. ....

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Blueman
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2003-10-03          65403

I bought my tractor used with various attachments, including a 3PH log splitter, and a dump wagon. Any idea how I can have both of these attached to the tractor at the same time? (Like a draw bar "extension"?) ....

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Murf
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2003-10-03          65408

Mark, I like the 'pump version' even better, it is easier and more likely to develop the necessary pressures required to tilt a heavy implement, like a box-blade. I would do it a little different though, I would use a traditional hydraulic top-link, but mount a small hand pump & reservoir on top. If it was positioned carefully you could swivel around and pump it from the seat, or mount it remotely, on the fender say, and control it as if it were a regular remote valve.

Blueman, this is an easy one, the only limiting factor is that the further back the load is carried, say behind your splitter, the more the load, like the tongue of your dump wagon, effectively weighs. This can be at least partially ovecome by mounting large heavy caster wheels under the tongue. Another way would be to mount the splitter ON the dump wagon, therby using one item to carry the other, you would only need to extend the lines to the splitter, or plump them together. Since the dump wagon is probably used to carry the wood this is probably the easiest way to do it.

Best of luck. ....

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Art White
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2003-10-03          65473

Murf, if staying with the Bush Hog 84T design the second gearbox is just a ninety which means you don't need a offset with the shaft drive. Those style driveway amintainers are quite common. ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2003-10-04          65511

I may have straightened out the indexing cylinder buz. I found cylinders described as re-phasing cylinders on the Cross Site. The site describes them as 'volumetrically matched for series use and automatically re-phasing when the pistons reach full extension.' That's sounds in the ball park of a discussion about 5 years ago on the antique tractor site but I'm pretty sure the term indexing was used. If that's true no wonder I haven't been able to find the term since then. ....

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Murf
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2003-10-08          65803

Tom, those indexing cylinders sound like regular cylinders with a priority valve built in, and probably a big price tag built in too. The valve is something like $70 Cdn. at Princess Auto, I would have to wonder if special cylinders could be any cheaper.

Art, there are lots of those maintainers around, no doubt, but I'm sure there are lots of people out there who would rather just buy a pre-made, pre-engineered, quality product, take it home and start to work it. Not everyone has, or has access to, a well equipped shop for fabricating such things. I doubt you could hire a local fabricating shop to make one any cheaper than they could be produced in even small runs.

Now, for the survey, how many people cut their own firewood, and wish there was a way to do it using their existing chain saw, but do it in such a way as to greatly reduce back strain while greatly improving production and safety. The cost would be minimal, but some welding, etc., would be involved.

Let me know folks.

Best of luck. ....

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kwschumm
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2003-10-08          65809

Murf, I cut my own firewood. Back pain was a real problem until I got the tractor. Now a friend comes over and I use the grapple to hold the logs a few feet up while my buddy cuts em. If I'm by myself the more tools the better, so I'd be interested in what you are thinking. ....

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Murf
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2003-10-08          65815

Ken, basically it's a heavy duty table on which you place the logs, complete with a ramp for loading if desired. It has a mechanism into which you clamp your chainsaw, which is counter-balanced to reduce the weight of the saw to whatever point you want and allows you to work the saw with complete safety with only one hand, provided you keep the other one out from underneath of the saw, LOL. This frees the other hand to move and steady the wood. The cut wood can drop straight into a wheelbarrow or any other type of carrier.

You end up with very uniform cuts. All work is done at waist-level and you have very little handling of the wood, definitely no stooping and picking up over & over.

I am building a prototype, I'll post some pic.s when it's done.

Best of luck. ....

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kwschumm
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2003-10-08          65816

Sounds basically like a chopsaw for logs. That's a good idea! The ramp could have a crank driven belt so you can just crank it and the log will move up the ramp. ....

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Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2003-10-08          65819

Sounds like you guys are talking about one of these babys. ;-) ....


Link:   Firewood Processor

 
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kwschumm
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2003-10-08          65820

Chief, that's a nice machine! Unfortunately it would never pay for itself in my lifetime. ....

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Chief
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2003-10-08          65821

Exactly what I thought when I first saw it. You would have to sell some SERIOUS firewood to off set $50,000! Oh well, it is nice to look at. The 80 hp John Deere was a nice point as well. ;-) Maybe when I the lottery or inherit millions of dollars ehhh? ....

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Murf
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2003-10-08          65824

Ken, you getting pretty close with that idea, the only difference being in my design the saw blade is horizontal and stays that way, the saw goes striaght vertically up and down, it does not pivot.

Pivoting the saw from the tip of the blade is not the safest or most convenient way to do it, it is cheaper to build a jig to do it that way though. Also, by making the entire saw go up and down while staying horizontal you don't have to reach as far up for the handle while still getting decent clearance under the blade, it's easier to make an adjustable stop to limit the raising to just enough to clear the log.

I didn't feel the need to mechanize the feed, it would only make the whole thing more complicated, expensive and heavy. I did however envision a small stopper to prevent ramped wood from clogging the table, then a small hook on a handle, maybe 2' long just to pull the log over the stopper and into position for cutting, it could also be used to pull the log from the far end into the sawing position.

Chief, the firewood processor has been around for a long time, primarily in the Nordic countries. They are too expensive to justify for anything but a purely commercial operation, a homowner would never get their money back. Even the smallest PTO (no power unit to buy) start at about US$10,000 and even if you counted nothing for your labour or tractor to power it you would still not save anything over buying wood already processed. Around here big mobile processors can be hired for US$10 per full cord, for reasonable minimum quantities. At that rate you would need to process upwards of 1,500 full cords before you even got your investment back.

I'm talking about something that could be built in a weekend for a cost of maybe $150 and using the saw they already have, allow someone to easily cut a couple of cords a day, and still be able to walk the next day, LOL.

Plans available, line up to the left of your screen, LOL.

Best of luck. ....

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Billy
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2003-10-08          65825

Hey Murf, I got a good idea for a new implement.

As you know, there are many old drilled water wells that have dried up. Since they are no longer fit for anything, why not make an implement that can pull these wells out of the ground? Then you can cut the old well into prefabbed post holes ;)

....

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Murf
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2003-10-08          65827

I don't know about down there, but here in Canada that would be illegal. The ONLY legal way to abandon a drilled well, even a gas well for that matter, is to plug it by pouring it full of cement.

This is done so as to prevent surface water, or water from the ground-water table from entering and polluting the aquifers farther down, including someone nearby's drinking water supply.

9 points for creativity though......

Best of luck. ....

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TomG
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2003-10-09          65859

I know it's a sideline issue but I think plugging wells here is more complicated than just filling them with concrete. I've heard what has to be used and how but the details didn't stick. If anybody is thinking about filling a well I'd sure check what is required. I suspect that doing it wrong would make for a much worse problem. As Murf said, if the enviro folks here find an unused well (drilled or dug) on your property you end up with quite a bill. ....

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kwschumm
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2003-10-09          65874

I thought Billy's post was a joke (and a pretty good one at that) but Murf and Tom's responses are serious. What did I miss? ....

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Chief
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2003-10-09          65875

Likewise. Never heard of a real well puller. ;-) ....

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Murf
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2003-10-09          65876

I don't think it was meant as a joke, at least I took it as a serious, very creative suggestion, unfortunately it just isn't workable.

Thus the high score on creativity, LOL.

Best of luck. ....

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Billy
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2003-10-09          65884

Sorry, Murf but it was meant as a joke. Just a little humor from south of your border ;)

It's like the guy that came into my workplace once. He was an elderly man and had a broken arm. I asked him what happened. He replied, I got drunk and fell out of a well ;)

Billy ....

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AC5ZO
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2003-10-09          65887

Murf, read it a little closer...
Prefab post holes?? I thought it was pretty funny. ....

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Murf
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2003-10-09          65889

OK Billy, I took it as an idea, if you knew me you'd realize that NOTHING is impossible.

As an engineering student my professor used to drill into our heads "Nothing is impossible, somethings just seem to cost more than they are worth." so I'm programmed to find a way to do things, not say that's impossibl;e.

Besides, it's a common thing around here to reclaim irrigation and dewatering pipes for fence posts, so it didn't even phase me.

Beers on me, but be careful, it's the good Canadian stuff, we use it to stop charging bears, doncha' know......

Best of luck. ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2003-10-10          65926

Dang, the guy with the broken arm should have known that you've got to wear water wings to keep from falling out of a well. ....

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Murf
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2003-10-10          65952

Atually I was wondering what fool left the lid off the well, if it had been in place he probably wouldn't have fallen out in the first place, drunk or not......

Safety pays!!!

Best of luck. ....

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Art White
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2003-10-10          65965

I go away for a couple of days and here are posts trying to get to the golf cart numbers! Murf, the driveway maintainers are avalable in quite a few lines with different variations and you are right they all work just some better then others. ....

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larryv
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2003-10-28          67390

Murf,
I think that one of the more overpriced, and technologically straightforward would be a PTO leafblower.
Lar
....

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shortmagnum
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2003-11-18          69053

Murf, I'm in the process of building a "poor mans grapple" for the FEL on my Kubota. I need to thin some spruce woods and need a way to pile the pulp/sawlogs after they're cut to length. The lower two grapple arms will be solidly attached to the FEL arms and extend beyond the FEL arms by two-three feet (bucket removed). The upper grapple arm or arms will be attached to a quick attach faceplate that I bought from an equipment dealer. This upper arm will also be two-three feet long and will curve slightly toward the lower to hold the log. I should be able to drive up to a log, drop the grapple around it and just use the bucket curl valve to clamp onto the log. Again, the lower arms are fixed to the loader frame. When closed the upper and lower arms will point about 45 degrees down from horizontal so the log will roll out easily. The simplicity of this grapple is that extra hydraulics are not needed just the loader hydraulics. At first I thought of just using pallet forks but then realized that getting a log to roll off the forks and end up in a neat pile would not be easy.

Comments accepted from anyone...
Dave ....

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Murf
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2003-11-19          69088

Dave, I understand what you're trying to do, but can't help thinking you're making it more complicated than it needs to be.

The first big problem you're going to have is if the bottom arms are fixed to the FEL frame you won't be able to adjust their attitude, or rotate them like you could with a set of pallet forks. This means you will have a bear of a time trying to stick the forks under a log since they will be locked in position, with only a vertical adjustment. Also, without rotation you have no way to roll them back and transfer the weight in.

IMHO, what you have to do is make the TOP frame close on the bottom, not the other way around.

If you already have a QT plate for your machine, mount a set of pallet forks to it. You then have the option of either going really cheap, chain or rope to kepp the logs in place, or fancy, hydraulically (or sprung like a mouse-trap) closing grapple on top.

Best of luck. ....

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grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003
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2003-11-20          69153

Murf,
I didn't read all the response's you got but here is my two cents.
I have recently purchased a new 7500. I want to move dirt,
Blow snow, and mow and mulch.
My problem is the mow and mulch part. I am frustrated trying to find the solution. I know I can buy a mmm/bagger
2500-3000 bucks. And have to empty the bags.
I would like a rear finish Mower,for the price and convienence(removal+install) that mulches leaves enough
that you don't have to go over it or be concerned about killing the grass.But retaining the benefit of the nutrients.
How about introducing air into the deck,causing vacuum or circulation? using the drivedhaft before or after the gear box. or possbly a sm. hyd. unit?
I'll buy the first one!
....

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Murf
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2003-11-20          69167

Grinder, that's not a tough one, we've been dealing with leaves on golf courses in that manner for MANY years. It just requires a bit of co-operation from Mother Nature. Here's how it works.

Use a conventional rear finish mower, side discharge only, rear discharge doesn't work, put on the most aggressive mulching blades available. Make up some pieces of flat iron half the length of your blade and drill the same diameter hole in exactly the middle, twist each end up by about 25 degrees like a propeller. Install these bladesfirst then your mulching blades so that these new blades are ABOVE the others. Set cutting height so that the blades just touch the top of the grass.

Now wait until the leaves are a little cruvnchy, or at least as dry as you think they're going to get before snow or rain hits. Driving forward over them as at a speed of approx. half that which you would normally cut at will vacuum up and mulch the leaves. The air flow created by the aggressive mulching blades and the extra blades will create quite a stream of air coming out the outlet, enough to quite satisfactorily spread whats left of the leaves around without leaving any big clumps.

If you end up with more mulch than you desire left behind then clear a small area large enough to speread out a good sized tarp in. Use large nails as pins to stake it down well and then run your machine around in an ever decreasing circle constantly blowing the leaves into the center, when you get to the point where all the leaves are on the tarp just gather the edges and drag it of to the disposal area.

Best of luck. ....

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shortmagnum
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2003-12-08          70520

Murf, I got a chance to try out my grapple yesterday. I was able to attach the lower arms to the FEL lift arms without drilling or welding to them. The lower arms point almost straight down when you drop the loader to pick up a log so the upper and lower arms are in front of and behind the log respectively when you clamp down (you don't have to get a fork under the log). Even at the highest lift there is still a slight downward angle so the log will roll off onto the pile when you open the grapple. I wish I could post a drawing, it would be easier to describe.

I cut about 15 spruce trees yesterday with base diameters ranging from 7 to 14 inches. I would yank them out of the woods, limb them at the landing and pile them there. I could then grab the tops and branches and push them out of the way. I wasn't necessarily efficient yesterday, but I should get better now that the technique is down.
....

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Murf
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2004-04-27          84475

The first of the "Murf-Miester Do-Lots" line of toys, err, I mean TOOLS, is ready for field testing.

See my picture # 18.

It's not exactly a 'new' implement, but I'm certain it will prove itself VERY handy in the future.

I am in the midst of finishing up several more components of it but the first few components are done.

The base unit is a sort of quick-tach plate which in this version is designed to mate with the Kubota 4 pin system. Two pins are left in place all the time and only the bottom two pins need to be removed to swap plates or attachments.

A central part of the design is the Class 4 receiver hitch in the middle, as shown it takes a ball mount or anything else on a 2" square mount. I have so far added a snowplow mount and a 3pth adapter, both of which couple to the base plate via the 2" receiver socket. More pictures to follow. The forks are easily removeable by just sliding the round stock out to either side. The flat-back design of the forks allow you to 'dump' a load (such as a log) off without the forks swivelling and staying flat to the ground but does allow some slight rotation to conform to the ground to get under something.

This past weekend I mounted my 3pth push-broom on the 3pth adapter and quite quickly de-thatched a big area of grass. It also makes a real nifty mount for a 3pth logsplitter and the versatility of being able to adjust the height and angle was a real blessing. It is also a lot easier for two people to work around it when it is out front instead of nestled up against the back of the tractor.

It's hard to see in the picture but the paint is an almost exact match to factory colour, it was accomplished by blending 2/3 Tremclad Omaha Sunset Orange with 1/3 Tremclad Fire Red.

Best of luck. ....

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beagle
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2004-04-27          84505

Since the B7800 is not equipped with position control on the three point, I have built and am testing two different position indicators for the 3-point. The design I have on the tractor now seems to nbe working very well, definitely accurate enough to know where the hitch is.

The indicator operates off a bell crank on the lift arms, and reads directly to an indicator box mounted in front of the operator. The indicator scale is graduated to give about 1/2" difference in elevation indication.

So far, repeatability of grade has been very good, and it seems to be standing up to field conditions with about 4 hrs of use on it so far. After about 10hrs of use, if it still stands up, I would believe it would be worth sharing. So far, I can't believe how ell it works. Pictures to follow. Total cost was about $200. ....

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Murf
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2004-04-28          84577

Beagle, some time ago I saw a position control device a fellow had made for a slightly larger tractor, but the concept would be the same. He did a lot of rural driveway maintenance and so needed a grader like apparatus.

His system used a pair of runners like a sliegh would have, one each side of the grader. A control rod ran vertically from them to a sensor mounted on top at each side, they in turn controlled electrically-operated hydraulic valves to maintain a set elevation. The runner served to even out small bumps and smooth the movements.

By merely adjusting a sliding collar clamped to the control rod he could adjust the finished elevation with nothing more than a screw-driver.

He told me he was working on a similar type of setup using a control rod on the rock shafts of the 3pth to do the same thing with the 3pth.

Best of luck.

....

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beagle
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2004-04-28          84637

Sounds like an enhancement to the system I have. Because the 3-point floats, I can only determine the elevation I have set the blade at, kind of homemade position control. To hold a given elevation with the three point, downpressure would be required. Am I understanding that he had a way of fixing the elevation of the blade, or did his system float also. Downpressure isn't something the 3pt is really designed to take very well.

I can tell if the blade is riding a high spot by watching the indicator, just can't do anything about it. ....

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