Go Bottom Go Bottom

Super C rebuild

View my Photos
BillMullens
Join Date: Jun 2000
Posts: 649 Central West Virginia
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2004-11-10          100138

I just completed an engine rebuild of my '52 Super C.
This was an in-frame rebuild, and the tractor already had the 3-1/4" sleeves and pistons, so it is at least the 3rd set of sleeves/pistons to be in it. The top end was still in good shape from the previous rebuild. I had the head tanked and bead blasted and hand lapped the valves.
The top end gasket kit I got had a Fel-Pro head gasket that I wasn't sure which way to put it in. Finally I saw on the Fel-Pro web page that if it isn't marked "Top" or "This side up" then it doesn't matter. I coated it with copper spray adhesive before installation.
The oil pump was screwed up. One of the bolts was gone from the bottom plate (found it in the sludge in the bottom of the pan). The gasket had blown out of one side. The bottom was warped pretty bad. I rubbed it on sandpaper on and off for several hours before it seemed true enough to seal. I checked the end clearance with plastigage and used only one thin gasket.
I installed a Tisco 3-1/4" diameter sleeve/piston set. Seems to be pretty good stuff. The old sleeves and pistons were worn pretty bad. Piston to cylinder clearance was visible; ring gap was about 0.080". You think that was why it was using oil? I checked the ring gap on the new rings; a couple of them needed a swipe or two on a stone to get proper clearance.
The connecting rods were previously installed the wrong way (I think). The index numbers were all facing away from the cam. With some worry, I turned them around when I reinstalled them.
The rod bearings looked pretty good; the mains looked like new. But, I replaced all of them anyway, as they are relatively cheap and easy to do. I cut a nail off and put it in the crank oil hole to turn the mains out; then also used it to help turn the new ones back in. Worked good. The crank had previously been turned 0.010".
Got the head back on Saturday but one cylinder didn't have much compression. I could hear it leaking out the exhaust valve. I removed the rockers and pushed and turned on the offending valve until it seated. Don't know what was stuck under it; but it sealed after that. Set valves to 0.020" cold for intial run in (knowing I'd have to remove the rocker arms again to re-torque the head after warming it up)
After getting the manifold, radiator and carb back on; filling with oil and water (some anxious moments after filling with water...watching to see if the water level in the radiator drops from leaking around the sleeve seals!) and taking the battery off of the charger, ready to give it a try. The poor old battery could only turn it over about a 1/2 turn at a time, but after I remembered to turn the ignition on (duh) it fired right up. No knocks or leaks. Sounds good; the exhaust note is much sharper than before. Oil pressure shows about 3/4 up the gauge when warm; a big improvement.
I ran it around for about 15 or 20 minutes; tried it out in high gear on the county road. No smoke, runs and idles very smooth.
Drained the water out after it cooled down; pulled the rocker arms and re-torqued the head. Only two of the bolts wouldn't take any. The others all took about 1/8 to 1/4 turn to give me 65 ft-lbs.
When weather warms back up next spring, I'll start painting on it.
Good luck all,
Bill


Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Super C rebuild

View my Photos
shortmagnum
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 848 Wisconsin
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2004-11-10          100142

Bill, It feels pretty good to finish a major rebuild like this. Two winters ago I did a complete rebuild of my 9N. Then I think I put almost $1000 into it. Almost all of it was for parts but there was a bit of labor too in that I had a machine shop pull and install the new sleeves.

There must be something about putting the rods in backwards on old tractors. Mine was probably rebuilt twice before (I remember it being apart in the barn when I was young). Some in the barn rebuilder put them in backwards too. :-)

Now that it's got a new engine, the hydraulics need attention.
Dave ....

Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Super C rebuild

View my Photos
yooperpete
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1413 Northern Michigan
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2004-11-10          100146

Bill,
Sounds like you have done a thorough job on the rebuild. It takes allot of time and TLC. I envy your ability, time, patience to complete a job like this. My Super "C" is just setting there and haven't had it running in years. Now I'm having trouble doing that. When you get her all painted, etc. in the spring please post a pic. Would love to see it! ....

Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Super C rebuild

View my Photos
BillMullens
Join Date: Jun 2000
Posts: 649 Central West Virginia
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2004-11-10          100153

Engine rebuilds always make for a few anxious moments.

I really don't know why the rods are supposed to go in one way or the other. Apparently, it didn't hurt anything when they were in backwards since it still sounded fine and ran fine, just smoked and used a lot of oil.

I'll be sure to post some before/after pics in the spring. If the mild weather holds out for a few more days, I'll do some plowing with it this fall and get started on the bodywork, too.

Bill ....

Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo


  Go Top Go Top

Share This
Share This







Member Login