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 | Doc Robbs
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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2002-04-29 37955
I've got a JD 4700 HST and am going to be clearing some very hilly and rough terrain. It's got sapplings over 1-2" so I'm looking at medium duty cutters.
Looked at JD MX5,MX6, Bush Hog 285,286 and a Woods 600,720
Other brands around me seem to have only light duty models.
The specs seems to separate the Woods from all the others. The 5' Woods 600 weighs more than all the others by a couple hundred pounds (Except close in weight to the JD MX6). It weighs in at 1,039 lbs.
Is this cutter too heavy for the 4700? Especially in hilly terrain? Does this increase in weight convey heaver metal and thus stronger? It sure looks well made. Does anybody think I should get a different one just because it's lighter?
Thanks for all the help.
Doc Robbs
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
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2002-04-30 37957
I don't think weight is going to be an issue in terms of 3ph capacity. Weight might affect stability on hills during transport, but heavy 3ph weight should be manageable by working straight up or down and using front end ballast.
I don't use a cutter so my comments should be taken with a grain of salt. Maybe I'll learn something by making them. I'm not sure how the cutting will be done, and I'm not sure how feasible it is to drive a tractor on hills through brush that contain 2" saplings. Maybe pushing everything down with a loader would work. I've heard that guards for hydraulic hoses and tire valve stems are very good ideas for doing this sort of thing though.
If cutting will be done by going backwards, I imagine that rugged construction would be desirable. I think that stump jumpers protect a cutter from hitting things while going forward but not backward. The tail-wheel would lift the cutter over some obstacles but could easily miss others. Cutter construction that is less likely to bend or break seems like a good idea. If extra weight equals more rugged construction, it seems like a good idea. The tail wheel may be particularly vulnerable when backing and a heavy-duty wheel and bracket seems a good idea.
....
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| BillBass
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 190 North Texas
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2002-04-30 37959
With 1" & 2" saplings, I would not worry too much about any of them. I use a 6' Howse light duty. I mow mostly pasture and ditch. But I do have a creek area that I have been clearing. It has a lot of cedar, some up to 3" at the base. It also has some smaller hardwood saplings. If they are no taller than about 4', I just mow straight over them. If they are taller (some up to 6'+), I raise the cutter and back over them. Then I slowly lower the cutter and drive forward. The light duty Howse never strains or complains. I am left with a surprising small amount of mulch. ....
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 | Peters
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 3034 Northern AL
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2002-04-30 37975
If it is any help I have a 287 Hog and love it. I think the heavier construction is an asset on longevity as the deck is generally the first think to go. I mow about 13 acres once a month. Most of the commerical mowers in this area have he heavy duty Hogs.
I was in at the dealer the other day and saw the 285 and it is not the same mower as mine. I like the look of the new Woods. All thinks being equal I would go for the Woods. I doubt I would look at the Deere as they just seem overpriced to me.
Weight is an issue, even though I am using a large tractor for mowing if I lift the mower up high I can stand the tractor on its back wheels. Remember it is not only the weigh at the 3pt hitch but the weight out at the back of the mower that acts as a lever. Do you have any front weights? ....
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| Jim on Timberridge
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 172 La Crosse WI
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2002-04-30 37978
i have a very similar situation to yours. Tractor is a JD4700HST used to mow several acres but also clear and maintain fields and logging trails.
Use a JD516 very successfully, which is their light/med grade. Used to have a JD413 on a 755, which was could knock down 1" saplings, but the deck was too light (aka thin). If you look at many used cutters, much of deck damage is frequently bent-in edges. That's where the cutting was done backing up and the cutter was run into trees, stumps, rocks, etc.
And thats' one good reason why cutting in reverse is rarely effective. there is a real problem manuveuring the long wheel assembly going backwards.
The 516 deck is heavier in steel and has a turned lip for edge strength (good), but i've still managed to split a weld and put small bends in the deck. Nothing else has been affected.
I've said previously to gauge cutter sizes that if you are comfortable driving over the stuff with your tractor without damage to the underside, then the cutter you are dragging will generally whack up what you want.
Regards weight, the Woods600 at 1039# is pretty hefty. the 4700 only runs around 3500# with fuel etc. Even putting on suitcase weights (I've got 4-75#'ers and 4-42#'ers that I hang in front) still doesn't compensate. One problem is the hills -- when you go up, the center of gravity shifts back, and your front end elevates.
Another is the extreme tendency of the back end to be pulled down-hill when you're mowing side-hills. I've posted several comments being pulled sliding down the hill on my R-4's (pressure, etc, being factors). If you're also on clay, then the experience is akin to a good day of sledding.
Finally a suggestion: if you have a finite area to clear, you're probably only going to need to hit it once or twice with a good sized cutter. Then long-term maintenance is more suitable with a finish or flail mower. See if you can get a neighbor to do the first clearings, and spend your money on a good mower.
jim ....
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| John Mc
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 98 Vermont
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2002-05-01 38030
I have a Woods BB60 on my NH TC33D (about the same as a JD 4300). It handles 1" saplings on a regular basis, and I have occasionally done some 2". I find that this "standard duty" Woods mower is the equivalent of the medium duty mowers sold by some other companies. I looked at the BB600, but decided it was overkill for my needs... that thing is built like a TANK!! It will definitely handle your 2" saplings, no problem.
You may want to be looking at the 6 ft models, however (BB720), since I don't think a 5 footer will cover your tracks in a JD 4700 (hard to mow up close to a fence line, for example). You'll definitely need some front ballast or a FEL to keep good traction on your front wheels. If you won't be doing a LOT of 2" material, you could get by with the BB72 (rated for 30 - 65 HP) instead of the BB720.
John Mc ....
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| Doc Robbs
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2002-05-02 38077
Thanks for everyone's response. I went ahead with the B600 Woods. I do have a FEL and will use that for my ballast. I thought about a 6'cutter but a guy who is helping me with more experience advised against it given the terrain where we will be working. Anyway when I'm doing the easy clean up later I just have to make a few more passes.
Neighbors only have a very light "Cheap" (I won't give names to avoid flaming" cutters that only use shear pins. He tried cutting some weeds down on my easiest pasture (2 1/2 acres) and between rocks and roots he went through 4 pins. I really don't want to deal with that.
Thanks for the advice again. I'll let everybody know how it turns out. ....
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